JoaoCaldeira
|
 posted on 9/1/06 at 01:37 PM |
|
|
Cooling: R1 Radiator vs Polo
Hi.
While speaking today with Marc's dad he advised me against R1 radiator.
He says that it's not up to the job even for UK - and I'm in sunny Portugal.
But you can check reports of lots of other se7ens (KM, ST, Furys...) using them without a problem.
Main reason would be cost:
rad+fan+breather+temp sender
MNR's: 211 UKP
R1: 100 ish (eBay)
Also keeping the original flow is a major point.
But there is no point at all if it doens't cool well.
Is MNR's nosecone so restrictive compared to others?
Joao Caldeira
|
|
|
|
|
zxrlocost
|
| posted on 9/1/06 at 01:45 PM |
|
|
I wouldnt say so I now know of a few 7's using the r1 rad without a problem
mount it well use good oil and coolant and away you go
its also got all the rights ins and outs on!!!!
Im using it on my MK
|
PLEASE NOTE: This user is a trader who has not signed up for the LocostBuilders registration scheme. If this post is advertising a commercial product or service, please report it by clicking here.
|
Howlor
|
| posted on 9/1/06 at 01:55 PM |
|
|
Joao,
It should be easy to change if you find it's not right. You will just need some 25mm-32mm adaptors and new brackets making up. Just ensure you
fit a water temp gauge so you can keep an eye on it.
Steve
|
|
|
zxrlocost
|
| posted on 9/1/06 at 01:59 PM |
|
|
the r1 gauge if hes using it comes with a temp gauge
|
PLEASE NOTE: This user is a trader who has not signed up for the LocostBuilders registration scheme. If this post is advertising a commercial product or service, please report it by clicking here.
|
smart51
|
| posted on 9/1/06 at 04:12 PM |
|
|
Mine is staying very cold in the weather we've had here in the last two weeks. The gauge stays below 50° while on the move. The temperature
sensor is after the thermostat, by the radiator on my car. No need for a rad at all. I guess that will change in the summer.
MNR told me that the R1 rad was not up to the jub but I don't understand why. It works on the bike afterall. I guess that it must be to do
with being enclosed in the body work in the car.
If you have a good R1 rad then I might be tempted to have a go. Watch the coolant temperature and see how often the fan switched on. You might be
OK.
|
|
|
Howlor
|
| posted on 9/1/06 at 05:18 PM |
|
|
I have wired my fan over ride switch through a screen demist delay relay that puts it on for 10 mins at a time. I did this mainly so I didn't
accidently leave it on as the fan may be running when I stop due to the thermostat. I have also wired the switch light onto the fan positive so that
the switch inside the car lights either when I have activated the fan from the override or if the thermostat has activated the fan.This way you can
see how often thefan is being used as I presume the engine will drown out the fan noise once running!
Steve
|
|
|
smart51
|
| posted on 9/1/06 at 06:17 PM |
|
|
The light is on when the fan is on, not the switch, on the standard MNR loom. You can't hear it with the engine running. Not from the
driver's seat anyway.
|
|
|
Humbug
|
| posted on 9/1/06 at 06:24 PM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by JoaoCaldeira...
Main reason would be cost:
rad+fan+breather+temp sender
MNR's: 211 UKP
R1: 100 ish (eBay)
...
Joao Caldeira
Not sure what you mean by a "breather" or how much a temperature sender would be, but I got a brand new Polo rad for just over £50, and a
fan from CBS for about £50.
|
|
|
jimgiblett
|
| posted on 9/1/06 at 06:34 PM |
|
|
I've run an R1 rad in my car for 2 years including trackdays and long trips into central france. I've been stuck in traffic jams with
30degC+ temps and fan keeps temperatures well under control.
The rad is light and very effective and will make plumbing easier as it has the right number of outlets in the right places.
Only downside is that they are expensive new (mine was £100 from PDM).
Jim
|
|
|
omega0684
|
| posted on 9/1/06 at 07:42 PM |
|
|
what company is PDM and where can i find there website
|
|
|
RichieC
|
| posted on 9/1/06 at 07:52 PM |
|
|
PDM
Hi Joao
Theres no reason you couldnt get the Polo rad and fan for £100.
Add to this though about £70 in hoses (if you choose silicone ones) and fan switch.
Youll still need some hoses if you use the R1 rad due to the way in which its mounted.
Therefore, I wouldnt let the money issue make the decision.
Im going for the Polo option. This is based on MNRs advice and the fact its simple to mount.
Kind Rgds
Richie
[Edited on 9/1/06 by RichieC]
|
|
|
RichieC
|
| posted on 9/1/06 at 07:58 PM |
|
|
quick quick.................
|
|
|
JoaoCaldeira
|
| posted on 9/1/06 at 10:19 PM |
|
|
Bloody cheap!!!
Radiator + fan at £23! Who would beat it?
Actually it was a 2001 which IIRC is a bit different from the 2002 / 03
MNR made an offer on rad + fan for £105, but I still need temp switch and breather tank, which is all included in the R1 package.
Marc... could you please enlight me?
Thanks,
Joao
|
|
|
JoaoCaldeira
|
| posted on 9/1/06 at 10:30 PM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by RichieC
Youll still need some hoses if you use the R1 rad due to the way in which its mounted.
Therefore, I wouldnt let the money issue make the decision.
I'm leaving hoses out of the equation as
I'll probably use silicone on booth possibilities.
For R1:
. Straigth plumbing as Yammy engeneers thought would be the best.
. 100 ish cheaper
Against R1:
. Possibly (?) not efective
. Less hoses in the engine bay
There are now so many Super Se7ens with R1 Rad that I'm soooo inclined to use it (although I almost don't dare to go against the ones that
build the chassis for their experience)
Joao
PS: I'll probably go for the R1 and if things don't go well swap for the Polo one later on...
[Edited on 06/1/9 by JoaoCaldeira]
|
|
|
RichieC
|
| posted on 9/1/06 at 11:21 PM |
|
|
Temp switches are around £8. The breather tank (header) on the R1 is a tiny plastic one, although thats not a problem, there would be nothing to stop
you fitting a similarly cheap plastic bottle with the Polo rad if you didnt want to buy a larger alu header tank.
For me a nice shiny header is a must and Id be using one whatever the rad.
Also, I wouldnt worry about it being the same as Yam intended, its not going to be anyway as you are going to have to move it around and fit different
hoses due to the engine layout and the fact its in the car.
Not trying to sway your view, but I wouldnt use those as reasons.
Let us know how it goes though
Kind Rgds
Rich
|
|
|
progers
|
| posted on 10/1/06 at 09:15 AM |
|
|
I too ran an R1 rad in an MK Indy. No overheating problems whatsoever, that included a trackday at Silverstone when the ambient temp was 30C. Water
temp was in the 90's, oil around 105.
The rad will be effective as long as it is well forward in the nosecone and you help duct air towards it. In many respects, the rad will be less
obstructed that when in the bike!
One note of caution you must ensure that you have a rad fan that will cut in when temps get high, e.g. in standing traffic. I maually wired the fan so
I could switch it on anytime.
On this occasion Mark is wrong. The only time I would consider not using the R1 rad is if you go racing, even then you can opt for an oil cooler to
supplement the cooling.
Cheers
Paul
|
|
|
marc n
|
| posted on 10/1/06 at 10:01 AM |
|
|
quote:
MNR made an offer on rad + fan for £105, but I still need temp switch
that price includes mounts and the fan switch
also done some cooling kits in stainless and silicone hoses will post some pics tomorrow
re temps paul could be correct as
i have only used my car on the road a handfull of times ( cant keep hold of my own cars people keep buying them as soon as i register them ) and have
only seen temps of 60 degree at normal running with rad fully exposed, most of our testing / developing has been done on test days and full race
simulations 12 - 15 lap runs which saw temps of 80 - 85 dehgrees with the polo rad ( i would personally opt for the larger rad and cover some of the
surface area on cold days if you are struggling to acheive 60 + degrees)
re fan yes are cars are always wiried so they can operate auto via the switch without the igmition on ideally this should be linked to an electric
pump so the water still circulates in the system rather than cooling the rad and leaving hotspots in the engine
colin am i right in thinking you have recently added a heater of sorts to you car ??? is this what has brought the temp down ??? what size is it ??
best regards
marc
[Edited on 10/1/06 by marc n]
|
NOTE:This user is registered as a LocostBuilders trader and may offer commercial services to other users
|
smart51
|
| posted on 10/1/06 at 11:20 AM |
|
|
Marc,
I have fitted a heater using the matrix from a Subaru WRX. The matrix size is 160 x 160 x 45mm. I have fitted a tap on the water flow into the
heater so that I can turn it off. Even with this fully closed, the temperature only gets above 45° when the car is waiting at traffic lights. The
temperature sensor is fitted after the thermostat, close to the radiator similar to the bike.
I guess that when the thermostat opens, warm water flows into the rad and icy cold water flows out and into the block, over cooling the engine until
the stat closes again.
Would partly covering the rad help much?
|
|
|
RichieC
|
| posted on 10/1/06 at 12:47 PM |
|
|
Marc,
Will be interested to see the hose kits. What make/size fan is that in fan/rad kit? Same as your car? Top price.
Rgds
Rich
|
|
|
progers
|
| posted on 10/1/06 at 04:24 PM |
|
|
Are you sure the temp sensor is properly grounded? This would cause a low reading
Just a thought
Paul
|
|
|
