RichieC
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| posted on 13/1/06 at 05:04 PM |
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Consumables/Sundries required for Vortx build
Evening all,
Im off to raid a mates workshop over the weekend and pick up the last bits and bobs so Im all ready when the kit arrives.
Any thoughts on what "fiddly" bits I need which arent included in the kit. Things like nuts and bolts, adhesive, rivets (what sizes, aly
or steel, closed or open etc).
Tools wise Im all about set with access to a pipe flarer and other stuff if need be.
Interested to hear anyones advice, cos it looks like Im going to be out of the country for 2 months, about 2 weeks after I collect the kit, hence why
I dont want to waste time sourcing niff naff.
Cheers
RC
[Edited on 13/1/06 by RichieC]
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smart51
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| posted on 13/1/06 at 05:40 PM |
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All my brake pipes came ready flared. I bought a flaring tool and only used it to practice. My kit came with more rivets than was really necessary
but not quite enough P clips. All the suspension nuts and bolts came with my kit but I have to get lots of M6 and M8 bolts and nylocs. Find a good
not and bolt supplier and buy a load. They're cheap when bout in bulk from a good place.
You will need PU adhesive, hose clips and cable ties.
I bout a bag of black 4.8mm rivets and they are really good for riveting black p clips to a black chassis. Also for riveting the black interior
panels.
I have spare the fuel filler hose supplied by MNR plus 2 gear stick / handbrake gaiters also supplied by MNR if they are of any use.
You will need a long M10 bolt and M10 washers to pack out the gear lever.
I used M12 threaded bar to mount My R1 engine and also the front of the diff.
Try to work out what arkward bolts you'll need in advance and order them by post or get from a proper fastener shop. R1 engine bolts are a
strange pitch and the propshaft - diff bolts have a fine thread.
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Dillinger1977
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| posted on 13/1/06 at 06:19 PM |
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if youve got gaitors going spare i'd be interested, i havent got any!
-Rog
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RichieC
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| posted on 13/1/06 at 06:28 PM |
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Beat me to it Rog  I have a handbrake gaiter but need to sort something for the gear lever. Not so much a gaiter, more an oval piece of alluminium
to go around it. Maybe a brushed piece, should look nice.
Thanks smart51. I was intending to get a handful of black rivets for that very purpose, thanks for the size. Are all the p clip rivets 4.8mm or can
you get away with a 3.2mm?
I have a stack of M5-M8 in various lengths stainless socket heads so they should be handy. Any longish sizes? as I only have up to about 50mm.
I think Ive got a length of M12 threading lying about somewhere. I dont think its a particularly great grade but should be OK.
I think I saw someone selling the R1 engine mount bolts a while back Ill have a look. Is there aything special about mounting into the car? or do the
standard bolts work?
Ive ordered an MNR fuel tank but not sure if it comes with the hose (is it the 2" or so one?) if it doesnt, Ill have that off you.
Thanks again,
Rich
[Edited on 13/1/06 by RichieC]
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RichieC
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| posted on 13/1/06 at 06:30 PM |
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Forgot to say, what did you use for your fuel tank straps and mounting plate for the ford master cylinder? I have some ally lying about but not sure
if its any use.
Cheers
RC
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zxrlocost
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| posted on 14/1/06 at 09:17 AM |
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rich fuel tank straps is ally strip from b&Q just over an inch wide
also put rubber strips underneath the straps to help earth
chris
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RichieC
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| posted on 14/1/06 at 10:16 AM |
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Hi chris,
Ah ok from their random pieces of ornamental metalwork department bit. Draught excluder ok for the rubber? Not seen it in much wider than that
Cheers mate
Rich
[Edited on 14/1/06 by RichieC]
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smart51
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| posted on 14/1/06 at 10:17 AM |
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B&Q ali strip is useful for mounting all sorts of things. A bit of sponge chassis strip it stop vibration ab bob's your uncle.
I only used 4.8mm rivets on my build. The tiny brake pipe p clips beed a bit of persuading for use with these but it is no problem.
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RichieC
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| posted on 14/1/06 at 10:27 AM |
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Thanks mate, Ill maybe go for a compromise and 4.0mm rivets, see what I can pilfer
I read a while back you had a puzzler with fitting the bonnet catches. Did you end up using peel rivets for those or did you manage with regular
ones? Im pretty tempted to use peel rivets on al of those which go through the fibreglass, dont want them pulling out and making a mess.
Kind Rgds
Rich
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smart51
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| posted on 14/1/06 at 03:18 PM |
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Well remembered. In the end I drilled through the fibreglass and right through the top chassis tube. I used a long M5 (I think) bolt through the top
hole of the catch and chassis tube and though a small aly plate and secured with a nut. I put a second bolt through the bottom hole in the catch.
under the chassis tube and through the plate and tightened that with a nut. The plate, against the square chassis tube was just fine for holding the
two bolts.
I have to do the same in the foot wells for the rear catches. This is easiest done before the scuttle is fixed in place. I found this out the hard
way.
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RichieC
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| posted on 14/1/06 at 04:33 PM |
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Well, Ive managed to get hold of a bagful of rivets and other assorted odds and sods like grommets etc.
Still need the PU adhesive. Is there anything to look for? Looks like about a tenner a tube for decent stuff.
Smart51
Thanks, Ill put those down for fitting before the scuttle. Do you reckon if doing it before, you could get away with peel rivets? I have the same
catches as you.
Does the fuel pipe you have spare not come with either the tank or filler then? Is it 2"?
Thanks again
Rich
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smart51
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| posted on 14/1/06 at 04:45 PM |
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Long peel rivets might do it. There may be a bit of a gab between the body and the chassis (which you can fill with PU)
The fuel filler tube came from MNR at the same time as everything else. I don't think it came with the filler cap. It fits to the MNR tank
though.
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RichieC
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| posted on 14/1/06 at 04:47 PM |
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Oakey doakey. Ill picture it better when its in front of me, but Ill bear it in mind come the day.
Il have the pipe off you mate, just shout how you want some payment. Can I get away with any filler cap then? (if it is 2" one) At least one
which comes with an unleaded restrictor
Rgds
Richie
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RichieC
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| posted on 15/1/06 at 10:55 PM |
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Anyone have any suggestions for self adhesive rubber for tank straps / between bonnet and scuttle etc? I was thinking industrial draught excluder but
it only comes in brown or white. I can picture the stuff I want but dunno where to find it.
Rgds
Richie
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smart51
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| posted on 16/1/06 at 08:44 AM |
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Chassis foam can be bought from several stands at kit car shows. These people are good:
http://www.woolies-trim.co.uk/
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RichieC
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| posted on 16/1/06 at 05:53 PM |
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Such a shame there arent any shows this side of the border, Ive missed out on bargains galore Ill keep my eyes open but with the likes of woolies,
Im not into faffing about with email orders, if its not straightforward with online payment I cant be bothered. Somewhat defeats the object of
ordering online.
On a plus, I found tiger seal at my local factors today for £8 a tube, a trolley jack and stands at half price - cheers easy.
I got some lined 6mm and 8mm p clips too.
Rgds
Richie
[Edited on 16/1/06 by RichieC]
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amalyos
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| posted on 18/1/06 at 10:47 AM |
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My wife uses high density foam in her crafting (about 2-3mm thick), I used this on my tank straps. It comes in A4 sheets, you just need to cut it into
strips and use doublesided tape.
You can find it on Ebay, or in the HobbyCraft shop.
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