coozer
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 posted on 21/2/08 at 10:08 PM |
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Brake problems
First of all thanks to Iain for the copper washers....
My twin master cylinder set up just wont hold brake fluid. The input from the reservoir into the cylinders leak
I used the bits supplied and they leaked, I bought pucka screw in nipples and they leaked, I put copper washers under the nipples (thanks Iain) and
guess what? they leak!
They sit dry for ages and one stamp on the pedal and theres fluid round the screw ins. Now forgive me I thought that side was non-pressure so why the
hell do they leak!
I never wanted a dual bias setup in the first place. The Sierra job would have done for me, after all it stopped the huge jelly mould OK for years.
What use are they on a road car, but, I was talked round and convinced it was the way to go.
Don't know what to do now, the rubber hoses are shot now they been on and off that many times. Do I go for a euroquip connection? But, the fact
it leaks when I press the pedal is niggling away at me.
Are the master cylinders faulty??
That's two things pi€€ing me off now with this build.
Any help/advise would be much appreciated.
Steve
1972 V8 Jago
1980 Z750
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zzr1100rick2
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| posted on 21/2/08 at 10:21 PM |
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What brake fluid hose are you useing ?
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Agriv8
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| posted on 21/2/08 at 10:25 PM |
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Hi steve,
The only thing I can think is that you are running out of travel on the cylindar and the seal's are hitting a non machined Part and this is
killing the seals which is why it has started leaking.
Have you taken one apart to have a look. Usually just a circlip at the end.
Had a race car that used to do this with the cluch master cyl.
regards
Agriv8
Taller than your average Guy !
Management is like a tree of monkeys. - Those at the top look down and see a tree full of smiling faces. BUT Those at the bottom look up and see a
tree full of a*seholes .............
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coozer
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| posted on 21/2/08 at 10:26 PM |
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Brake hose out of the Merlin catalogue, same place I got the screw in nipples.
I was thinking of changing them anyway for SVA as they have no ID on them. Another waste of money
1972 V8 Jago
1980 Z750
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coozer
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| posted on 21/2/08 at 10:29 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Agriv8
Hi steve,
The only thing I can think is that you are running out of travel on the cylindar and the seal's are hitting a non machined Part and this is
killing the seals which is why it has started leaking.
Have you taken one apart to have a look. Usually just a circlip at the end.
Had a race car that used to do this with the cluch master cyl.
regards
Agriv8
I don't think so, the pedal has a healthy pressure and doesn't go anywhere near the floor. It only takes normal stopping pressure to leak.
1972 V8 Jago
1980 Z750
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coozer
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 posted on 21/2/08 at 10:46 PM |
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I'm totally pi€€ed off now. Trawled the www for answers on setting up and come up with nowt.
Wish I stuck with the single master cylinder. I've still got the Sierra one and being better at fabrication than f€€king about with custom
setups I might just butcher the lot and fit that instead. Will be easier at sva as well. No balance bar to setup, drill and pin.
Will just be my luck the ends will be different and even more of a f€€k on.
i'm going to bed now so I dont go back in there and set fire to it
1972 V8 Jago
1980 Z750
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TimC
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| posted on 22/2/08 at 08:10 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by coozer
I'm totally pi€€ed off now. Trawled the www for answers on setting up and come up with nowt.
Wish I stuck with the single master cylinder. I've still got the Sierra one and being better at fabrication than f€€king about with custom
setups I might just butcher the lot and fit that instead. Will be easier at sva as well. No balance bar to setup, drill and pin.
Will just be my luck the ends will be different and even more of a f€€k on.
i'm going to bed now so I dont go back in there and set fire to it
Hi Steve
I can't help really, but I would urge you to persist with the bias set-up. The weight didtribution will be completely diifferent on your car to
the Sierra. Under heavy braking in my old MK, which used the Sierre set-up it was perfectly possible to lock the rears first.
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procomp
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| posted on 22/2/08 at 08:16 AM |
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Hi
1. is it only leaking on the input side of the cyl.
2. what make are the cyl's.
3. When you purchased the new inlet piece what size thread was it sold to you as being.
As TIMC has just said it is worth persisting with. It is not a common problem so it is something at fault. ( bit obvious ) But means it is just a
case of identifying the offending item changing it and all should be sorted.
Cheers Matt
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stuart_g
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| posted on 22/2/08 at 08:30 AM |
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can we have a pic of the cylinders and hoses so we can see where and what is leaking.
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bassett
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| posted on 22/2/08 at 08:59 AM |
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Hi, Is it the screw to thread thats leaking then? if it is maybe you could use some plumbers tape that ive seen people use on fuel fittings.
Adam
My MNR Blog Updated Jan 2010 - Track Day Prep Begins!
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coozer
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| posted on 22/2/08 at 09:14 AM |
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Karma has descended after a good nights sleep. Thanks Matt, persistence is the key...
I have dreamt of a nice system all set up and working with no leaks....
The fluid collects around the bottom of the screw in nipple where it screws into the cylinder. the pipe up to the reservoir is clamped on with a
jubilee clip... I'm thinking now that the jubilee clip is the culprit, the pipe being so small a diameter to clamp it distorts, not getting an
equal seal. Fluid escapes and collects around the lowest point.... Norma to the rescue with some 'proper' pipe clips.
Now then, wheres me wallet?
Steve
1972 V8 Jago
1980 Z750
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britishtrident
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| posted on 22/2/08 at 11:42 AM |
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Yes to the proper hose clips however it might be worth investigation that the copper washers are actually getting compressed.
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