marc n
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| posted on 26/5/08 at 11:47 AM |
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if you use the omex we will of course have a custom map made that will work on all our cars
cheers
marc
please email rather than u2u
direct workshop email ( manned 8am till 6pm )
www.mnrltd.co.uk enquireys to :-
chrismnrltd@btinternet.com
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NOTE:This user is registered as a LocostBuilders trader and may offer commercial services to other users
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pwl
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| posted on 26/5/08 at 09:19 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by marc n
quote:
Why does the F20C need a dry sump? is it height issues? I might be buying a Half-cut S2000 straight from japan and rip-out the bits at my own lesiure
in the garage.
dry sumping only gained an extra 5mm clearance, when we do our own s2000 we will not bother with the sump, in our latest cars the body is 25mm higher,
so an s2000 with standard sump sits just below the chassis rail from memory 10 - 15mm infact the lowest part is the bell housing
ecu does need to be swapped by an after market job
cheers
marc
Hi Marc
You are right about the minimal height advantage of the drysump. The drysump is 40mm lower than the stock oil pan, but the bell housing is 30-35 mm
lower than the drysump.
On mine, the bell housing is 25-30 mm under the rails, so the stock oil pan would have bin 30-40 mm under the rails.
I would highly recommend you to drysump it, if you are building a track car, the F20C engine are famous for its oil starvation problems, if you are
putting slicks or semi slicks on the car, a drysump is a absolute must. For a street car on road tyres, I would recommend a baffled oil pan at the
very least.
PWL
[Edited on 26/5/08 by pwl]
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pwl
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| posted on 26/5/08 at 09:27 PM |
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Here is a couple of pictures of the drysump, if anybody is interested
[img] [/img]
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clutch_kick
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| posted on 27/5/08 at 12:11 PM |
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Was it oil surges in a 7-type car?? I would think that the transversally mounted version (K20A) would be more prone to oil starvation, when mounted
in a mid-engined car. Do Atoms use a dry-sump?
I can understand the use of a Dry-sump on a Race oriented 7, but I would like to think that a baffled sump is sufficient on a road car, or an
occasional track day.
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pwl
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| posted on 27/5/08 at 03:07 PM |
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Maybe its just me that are playing it a bit to safe, I just don’t like to worry about if the engine is going to blow op in the next corner, when I am
on the track.
I am building a track only car.
Just trying to share the information I have gathered.
PWL
[Edited on 27/5/08 by pwl]
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clutch_kick
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| posted on 27/5/08 at 05:26 PM |
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That's true enough ... a track only car makes sense to have a dry-sump, oil-cooler, and a better cooling system. However ... thanks a lot for
those pics pwl. I'm pretty sure your car is going to rip a lot of tarmac 
I just want something to give all the jap-car boys a hard time on the road, and the odd hill-climb and lots of 1/4 mile runs. I have a good feeling
that i can get the Vortx with this sort of engine close to 12.5 secs.
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