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Author: Subject: mnr propshaft
marc n

posted on 3/4/06 at 08:03 AM Reply With Quote
mnr propshaft

thought there was a section about problems splitting the prop but cant find it now ????

basically undo the 17mm bolts 5 / 6 turns then use a lever to prise in between the bolt head and the uj ( being carefull not to damage the uj ) and the prop will come in two

best regards

marc

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Robert Ryan

posted on 3/4/06 at 08:37 PM Reply With Quote
Hi mark
YES IT WAS ME

STILL TRYING TO SPLIT IT.

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G.Man

posted on 4/4/06 at 04:27 AM Reply With Quote
Robert, I think you are deleting threads once you have your answer..

Might be better if you dont do that, as the purpose of the forum is to help not only you, but others with the same problems..







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Everyone has one, nobody wants to hear it and only other peoples stink!

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Robert Ryan

posted on 4/4/06 at 07:05 AM Reply With Quote
Sorry: I get the idea now.
How long do I leave it on or does it get deleted auto.

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JoelP

posted on 4/4/06 at 07:37 AM Reply With Quote
no need, old threads get archived eternally

see how old this one is!

http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=53

[Edited on 4/4/06 by JoelP]

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Robert Ryan

posted on 4/4/06 at 09:44 PM Reply With Quote
spliting the prop

Finaly I split the prop. Well, thanks to a friend Alan. I can now finish the final stage of the kit.
mmmm, Lots of wires how do I join them together.

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G.Man

posted on 5/4/06 at 04:09 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Robert Ryan
Finaly I split the prop. Well, thanks to a friend Alan. I can now finish the final stage of the kit.
mmmm, Lots of wires how do I join them together.


Carefully....

or pay £250 and get an autoelectrician in, its money well spent...

lol







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RichieC

posted on 1/6/06 at 10:41 PM Reply With Quote
Just to bring this one back up. Ive slackened the 17mm head bolt in the centre of the prop but its not budging. Its bending a 12" tyre lever at the moment.

Any more info about how to?

Thanks

Rich






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marc n

posted on 2/6/06 at 07:39 AM Reply With Quote
cant say i have had a problem with these before from personal experiance but a couple of you have seemed to have difficulties, im assured by the propshaft company they are all assembled the same so not sure why some are hard to split ??? , could try packing behind the bolt so when you are undoing it forces the two apart ?? or some gentle heat to free it all up ( obviously being carefull not to scorch the bearing )





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chockymonster

posted on 2/6/06 at 10:01 AM Reply With Quote
I've cheated. I've asked for mine to be supplied split
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RichieC

posted on 6/6/06 at 07:51 AM Reply With Quote
Definately the better option. Spent a good hour and a half trying to split it with various (undersized!) tools. Ended up at the garage with a larger lever.

Unfortunately, its popped one of the balance weights off where the spot weld hadnt really penetrated the prop, so its currently in the workshop being welded back on.

Having it supplied already split is by far and away the better option I think, just make sure the yokes all line up when you re assemble it.

Rgds

Rich

[Edited on 6/6/06 by RichieC]






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Winston Todge

posted on 6/6/06 at 09:05 AM Reply With Quote
The only thing I'd be worried about with the prop being sent split would be in which orientation they balanced it in.

Not to say that by them marking it to allow reassembly in the correct position would be a problem, but just open to error? Maybe I'm just paranoid!

I'm getting mine sent whole and then I'll have a go at splitting it.

All you have to do now is wait for the 'help I can't split my prop' thread!

Chris.






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RichieC

posted on 7/6/06 at 05:53 PM Reply With Quote
Having got the prop back with the weights now fixed, I cant see how the prop goes into the tunnel.

The front section is dead easy but the longer rear section doesnt want to go in at all.
From the passenger side, Ive tried from the back but theres not enough room from diff flange to front hoop to get it turned and likewise from the front, the prop rear flange cannot go through the chassis hoop.

Anyone found an easy way cos the way it seems at the moment it isnt going to go with the rear flange fitted.

Thanks

Rich






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amalyos

posted on 7/6/06 at 07:42 PM Reply With Quote
I had problems splitting at the centre. Best option was to split the rear UJ (using my trusty 1968 Escort Haynes Manual, it's a proper car manual).

Steve.

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RichieC

posted on 7/6/06 at 07:45 PM Reply With Quote
Ah man youre kidding. Its split at the centre - splitting it again is going to be a total pain, already had problems with the weights.

Out of interest how do the UJs come apart? I assume you remove the circlips and knock the pivot through? I had a look at that option but it didnt look like it wanted to come apart.

This is becoming a right PITA

Rich

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marc n

posted on 8/6/06 at 08:29 AM Reply With Quote
you can split it at the uj end , but as per manual best to have prop in before diff

best regards

marc





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direct workshop email ( manned 8am till 6pm )
www.mnrltd.co.uk enquireys to :-
chrismnrltd@btinternet.com

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amalyos

posted on 8/6/06 at 11:25 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by RichieC
Ah man youre kidding. Its split at the centre - splitting it again is going to be a total pain, already had problems with the weights.

Out of interest how do the UJs come apart? I assume you remove the circlips and knock the pivot through? I had a look at that option but it didnt look like it wanted to come apart.

This is becoming a right PITA

Rich


Splitting the UJ wasn't too bad, and it was far easier than getting the centre section to budge.

I split it at the rear diff flange end, then fed the whole prop in from the front. I then re-assembled the diff flange UJ in the tunnel.

I'll scan the manual page (for splitting the UJ) later and put them on my archive.

Steve.

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RichieC

posted on 8/6/06 at 11:52 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by marc n
you can split it at the uj end , but as per manual best to have prop in before diff

best regards

marc


Yep it would be considerably easier but you require the exact measurement from engine to front section and diff to front section so its hardly an option to do it that way.






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RichieC

posted on 8/6/06 at 11:54 AM Reply With Quote
Thanks Steve - Looks like Ill have to split it again so that will be handy. Is it just a case of removing the circlips and knocking the pivot from the yokes? The pivot didnt look like it wanted to come out but it had been painted over so it might just need some percussion.

Can I ask Marc, how do you fit the prop into the tunnel after youve split it in the middle as described in the first post in this topic? Have the chassis hoops changed?
I was following your suggestion to begin with.

Rgds

Richie



[Edited on 8/6/06 by RichieC]






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RichieC

posted on 8/6/06 at 05:58 PM Reply With Quote
Finally got the prop into the tunnel. I had to split the rear UJ. Not a particularly hard job but requires a bit of a hammer and caution.

Unfortunately, yet another prop weight has popped off. The spot welds havent penetrated the prop at all so they are just pulling off with your finger nails behind them. Off back to the workshops unless I can trust some epoxy resin.

Also, I had difficulty drilling the holes down through the centre bearing plate and through the floor. Be careful if youve put your fuel/brake lines underneath as its all very close. You cant really get in with a drill so the holes end up being slightly squint.

All in all a fairly dissapointing job. Would clearly be better fitting it from the rear with no diff in but Im not up for removing the diff at this late stage. One to put down to experience but happy its behind me.

Richie

[Edited on 8/6/06 by RichieC]

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marc n

posted on 12/6/06 at 09:37 AM Reply With Quote
quote:

Can I ask Marc, how do you fit the prop into the tunnel after youve split it in the middle as described in the first post in this topic? Have the chassis hoops changed?



slide the centre bearing off easier than taking uj apart





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RichieC

posted on 12/6/06 at 02:42 PM Reply With Quote
erm, right so not like youd described in the first post of this thread?

In fact edited to add, I was trying it with the centre bearing removed however the longer rear section of the prop was too long to get turned between the chassis hoops.

Only with the rear prop flange dismantled was there enough room to get it in and turned.


[Edited on 12/6/06 by RichieC]






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marc n

posted on 12/6/06 at 05:20 PM Reply With Quote
it is supposed to come in from the back i.e no diff, bit rusty on exact specifics as we dont have many with no reverse





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RichieC

posted on 12/6/06 at 05:23 PM Reply With Quote
Hi Marc,
Yep understand that would be easier, however you require the measurement from engine to prop and from prop to diff before you supply a propshaft - I assume this would neccesitate fitting the diff and engine then removing and refitting one or the other.

I would have been very happy to have fitted the prop before the diff but that wasnt an option.

Not being awkward - but surely something which could be looked at for future ?

Rich

[Edited on 12/6/06 by RichieC]

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marc n

posted on 12/6/06 at 05:48 PM Reply With Quote
the only reason there is the need to do it is so that the tunnel has the one piece hoops for prop protection if it comes unattached ( and trust me they work at oulton prop bolts sheared on my car at 100 mph down the back stariaght ) only cauaulaty one flat brake pipe, so needfless to say i wont be changing the design, i would rather it was slightly more difficult to fit a propshaft than someone losing their legs





please email rather than u2u
direct workshop email ( manned 8am till 6pm )
www.mnrltd.co.uk enquireys to :-
chrismnrltd@btinternet.com

NOTE:This user is registered as a LocostBuilders trader and may offer commercial services to other users
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