GeorgeM
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| posted on 2/2/09 at 08:49 PM |
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It won't start
OK, i've checked all the wiring (02 R1 with cyclelock).
The two links needed for the cyclelock are fitted.
The clutch switch, side stand & stop switch are shorted.
The tip over sensor is fitted & correct way up.
Box is in neutral.
Fuel pump works (via a switch at the moment)
Bike clocks are fitted at the moment for diagnostics, &
no fault codes are showing. All above have been checked
on the diagnostocs - and are ok
With ignition on, clocks power up, neutral light comes on.
Press starter button, engine turns slowly, neutral light
flashes, but no sparks. Earths are all good.
Haynes manual says engine warning light flashes
when trying to start if there is a fault, is this the same
as neutral light?
Any ideas please, I really need it running this week or
I can forget sva
GeorgeM
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Steve P
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| posted on 2/2/09 at 08:52 PM |
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Still no joy then george, hopefully an easy fix.
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handyandy
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| posted on 2/2/09 at 08:56 PM |
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i don,t have experience of that engine but to me it sounds like the battery is duff or you got plug leads on in wrong order.
or starter motor not correctly wired up.
andy
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mr_pr
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| posted on 2/2/09 at 08:59 PM |
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Yeah, I have very little experiance in this area but purely the 'engine turning over slowly' suggests either battery is kaput or your
wiring to the starter motor isn't right.
Easy to check, get a Voltmeter across your battery....
.JPG)
My Build Progress
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GeorgeM
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| posted on 2/2/09 at 09:07 PM |
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Battery brand new, i've checked output.
Starter connections ok.
Leads can't go on wrong, loom wont reach any other way.
Coils are individual for each plug. No spark though, so i'm
sure it's to do with starter logic.
I know Adam (bassett) had similar problem
GeorgeM
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Hellfire
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| posted on 2/2/09 at 09:08 PM |
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Remove your plugs and drop a small amount of oil into the bores and then try cranking.
Refit plugs and if the battery is ok she may fire up.
Phil
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GeorgeM
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| posted on 2/2/09 at 09:19 PM |
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Chris, I have checked them. Earths go to bare metal.
There are def no sparks, also this mention of
flashing dash light whilst cranking?
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austin man
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| posted on 2/2/09 at 09:21 PM |
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have you altered the timing at all ?? this can also make an engine appear tight and turn over slowly.
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GeorgeM
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| posted on 2/2/09 at 09:34 PM |
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nope
I'm more worried about the lack of sparks tbh
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Krismc
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| posted on 2/2/09 at 09:47 PM |
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Just cause you have got good output at battery- doesnt mean its enough to start engine. 13.9V but no amps and you aint going no where.
Proper battery tester is the only sure way to find out. slow engine sounds like battery to me.
Lack of sparks probably due to low engine speed and low power.
[Edited on 2/2/09 by Krismc]
Built, Ivaed, Drove and now Sold - 2011 MNR VORTX RT+ 2000cc Zetec on R1 Throttle boddies.
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GeorgeM
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| posted on 2/2/09 at 10:40 PM |
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I'll remove all earths & start cct connections
tomorrow, clean, refit & try again.
Fingers crossed
GeorgeM
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Pdlewis
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| posted on 2/2/09 at 10:57 PM |
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The only time mine turned over slowly was when the battery was almost flat charge over night and all is usually well
Build Photo Album
Updated 05/02/2009
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Agriv8
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| posted on 3/2/09 at 08:24 AM |
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Can you smell fuel ? if injector and spark not working check crank sensor and crank sensor to ecu wiring ( not sure where this is on the R1 )
if the ecu cant see where the engine is in rotation cant spark at the right time
regards
Agriv8
Taller than your average Guy !
Management is like a tree of monkeys. - Those at the top look down and see a tree full of smiling faces. BUT Those at the bottom look up and see a
tree full of a*seholes .............
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stuart_g
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| posted on 3/2/09 at 09:42 AM |
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Do you have 12v at the coils and injectors? You should have a permanant 12v on these when ignition is on. This is exactly what I had and Chris Mason
sorted for me over the phone. It was a missing earth on mine.
The engine warning light is lit on mine while engine is cranking but goes out when engine starts. No fault codes at any time are displayed. My engine
is 05 R1 so not sure if yours will do the same.
[Edited on 3/2/09 by stuart_g]
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GeorgeM
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| posted on 3/2/09 at 09:51 AM |
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Hi all,
battery is ok
I can't smell fuel ( even with the pump on!!)
will check crank sensor tonight
12v is ok at coils.
I will check injector 12v tonight
thanks all
GeorgeM
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bassett
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| posted on 3/2/09 at 11:18 AM |
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Hi George,
I can scan a copy of haynes wiring diagram with adjustments made to the loom with cycle lock fitted it that will help. What i ended up doing was lift
the whole loom and remove all the covering and trace every wire to where its going as we were getting no continuity on wires that should of had. This
is when we found out our whole loom was bodged by previous owner.
Is yours definitely a european model (cycle lock and the blue 8 pin connector on the right handle bar)?
Battery will need a healthy 12.8v plus to start. below that and it might fire but wouldnt always.
When engine light flashes its the amber engine symbol not the nuetral
Have you checked diagnostics on 30-33 Spark plugs and 36-39 on injectors to see if they are sparking/injecting? needs fuel pump and engine kill off
Adam
[Edited on 3/2/09 by bassett]
My MNR Blog Updated Jan 2010 - Track Day Prep Begins!
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bassett
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| posted on 3/2/09 at 01:56 PM |
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Heres the diagram i went from that Jim helped me out with showing the cycle lock in the left bottom corner where all the black wires are the two down
there that link to ecu and starter relay need to be connected.
As for the rest - Ignore the notes except those relating to ECU and starter relay and trace them on the US spec haynes diagram and check for
differences that the cycloc makes and connect as it should be.
Hope thats some help
Adam
My MNR Blog Updated Jan 2010 - Track Day Prep Begins!
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GeorgeM
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| posted on 3/2/09 at 08:26 PM |
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WOOOOOOOOOOHOOOOOOOOOOOOO
what a numpty,
everything was ok, only thing I hadn't
taken off was lead to starter. Corrosion or what!!!!!
Put it back together and started 1st time.
AND IT'S MINE
Filling sva forms in tonight.
Then I've got to finish it!!!!!!!!
Mega thanks to all for your help
GeorgeM
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