daniel mason
|
| posted on 20/5/09 at 07:40 PM |
|
|
5jj R1 electrical help needed!
am having trouble starting 5jj R1. it was starting first time every time but now it wont fire.there is no spark with any plugs shorted to earth and no
voltage at ignition coils. could it be ecu/cdi unit? thanks
|
|
|
|
|
Agriv8
|
| posted on 20/5/09 at 07:47 PM |
|
|
1 check fuses.
2 battery fully charged.
3 getting fuel
4 what could have changed since last running ( knocked a wire of - sensor)
regards
agriv8
Taller than your average Guy !
Management is like a tree of monkeys. - Those at the top look down and see a tree full of smiling faces. BUT Those at the bottom look up and see a
tree full of a*seholes .............
|
|
|
001Ben
|
| posted on 20/5/09 at 07:50 PM |
|
|
Previous Thread
it could be the ecu. A couple of things to check:
1. Are you in neutral?
2. Can you hear the relay clicking over?
3. Is the battery fully charged
4. fuses blown?
If the relay isnt clicking over then you have probably disturbed the cables when disconnecting the speedo - If you are using the standard R1 loom then
you need to check that :
5. clutch wires are still bypassed
6. side switch is still by passed
7. kill switch not activated
Probably best to try and find someone with the R1 wiring diagram and start finding where there is/isn't power.
[Edited on 20/5/09 by 001Ben]
|
|
|
daniel mason
|
| posted on 20/5/09 at 07:51 PM |
|
|
all fuses checked.
battery charged.
getting fuel.
cant have knocked any wires off as there is too seperate looms. 1 for bike loom and a new loom for lighting etc.all bike loom wires are hidden under
scuttle
|
|
|
001Ben
|
| posted on 20/5/09 at 07:54 PM |
|
|
Is it the R1 loom?
|
|
|
Rosco
|
| posted on 20/5/09 at 07:56 PM |
|
|
You mention not voltage on the coil. I'm not sure about bike engines, but I think on most car engines the coil negative is switched and the
coil is energised on a seperate circuit. So if there's no power to the coil I'd start with the fundamentals like fuses, battery, bad
connections.
|
|
|
daniel mason
|
| posted on 20/5/09 at 07:56 PM |
|
|
it was an r1 loom.but as it was originally built for sprints and hill climbing all un necessary wires were removed. the lighting loom is all new and
not r1
|
|
|
001Ben
|
| posted on 20/5/09 at 08:01 PM |
|
|
according to the electrical diagram there should be 12v on the coils - The power should go through the ignition main switch ( keys) then through a
fuse then to the coils,( red & black cable) the orange and grey cables go to the ecu.
|
|
|
daniel mason
|
| posted on 20/5/09 at 08:09 PM |
|
|
yeah, i spoke to auto electrician today and he said there should be battery voltage on red wire at coils but there is nothing. could it be starter
solenoid? if so how do i check this? thanks ben
|
|
|
001Ben
|
| posted on 20/5/09 at 08:23 PM |
|
|
if its turning over I doubt its the starter. When you disconnected the second speedo there was a cable with a spade on that you didnt know what it
did, can you do a continuity test on it to see if its the feed to coils
|
|
|
daniel mason
|
| posted on 20/5/09 at 08:31 PM |
|
|
i have been assured that every conection on that speedo had nothing to do with engine but as soon as i touch it to ignition it turns all savage
illuminations on. so i would imagine its a live. i was told that was the illumination for speedo though!
|
|
|
001Ben
|
| posted on 20/5/09 at 08:40 PM |
|
|
I would bet that removing that 12v has also removed the 12v from the coil, there is also 12v from the coil to the starting relay so that probably
isn't clicking over either when you attempt to start it.
|
|
|
daniel mason
|
| posted on 20/5/09 at 08:44 PM |
|
|
it started fine even before second speedo was added though and i think its just been tapped into a solid live leaving a spare tail. could i put a
direct link from +ve on ignition direct to coil or is that not recommended?
|
|
|
001Ben
|
| posted on 20/5/09 at 08:48 PM |
|
|
anythings worth a try, ideally from the back of a fuse if you can. dont take off the current connections as they should still be connected to the
relay which will be needed to start it
|
|
|
daniel mason
|
| posted on 20/5/09 at 08:54 PM |
|
|
i cant help thinking its something i have done but all my engine wiring isout of reach and out of sight so dont think even i could have pulled
something out. my dash is veypor vr2 which has a sealed wiring loom
|
|
|
TimC
|
| posted on 20/5/09 at 09:13 PM |
|
|
Right, forget all the talk of R1 relays. Its not there. Its wired like a car so its not the usual stand or neutral switches. The starter solenoid is a
Lucas unit as seen on Landies etc. A solid click should be heard wheb the start switch or whatever you use now is pushed. The engine will then turn
over. I'm on the BB at the moment so can't remind myself what the R1 loom looks like but I seem to remember two or three wires. (Orange,
grey and ?) coming from the ECU to the coils. You need to check power to the ECU off the plug. Its damn tight in there mind.
I'll check the R1 diag when I hit work and will be available if you want to give me a bell to try to work through it together.
TC
[Edited on 20/5/09 by TimC]
|
|
|
daniel mason
|
| posted on 20/5/09 at 09:18 PM |
|
|
orange and grey wires do come from ecu but i think they produce pulses and not voltage. there should be battery voltage at coils but i have nothing
|
|
|
TimC
|
| posted on 20/5/09 at 09:26 PM |
|
|
Yes, I"m sure you're right so check that power is getting to the ecu. You should then be able to say if the break is pre-ecu or at or
beyond the ecu. This must be driving you nuts!
If its not getting power, I'd next see if the power is getting to the out-end of the old fuse box.
No fun at all.
|
|
|
daniel mason
|
| posted on 20/5/09 at 09:30 PM |
|
|
all fuses are ok but its so tight in that footwell and all cables seem to run along top rail of scuttle so cant trace any of them! i dont have the
experience i need to solve the problem i dont think.
|
|
|
GeorgeM
|
| posted on 20/5/09 at 09:37 PM |
|
|
Dan,
on the coils, you have 4 wires going in.
2 are red, 1 orange, 1 grey.
orange & grey come from ecu
reds should be 12v from ignition switch
via a fuse and (on the bike) a stop switch.
Have you got 12v at the red on the coils
when you switch the ignition on?
GeorgeM
|
|
|
TimC
|
| posted on 20/5/09 at 09:39 PM |
|
|
Right.
You should be able to lie on your back with your feet over the roll bar and be able to unbolt the ecu. Unclip the plug and then use a multimeter to
see what you have in terms of lives with the ignition on. If you have nowt....
Take out the fuses one at a time and put a pointy multimeter where the fuse was. Use a small mirror to help you see. Repeat this for each fuse.
Let me know what you learn. I can't believe that my wiring has been disturbed - its solered, heat-shrunk and taped up.
|
|
|
daniel mason
|
| posted on 20/5/09 at 09:43 PM |
|
|
will try tim,thanks.
george, i have no vltage on red wires on coil input. spoke to gary who wires mnr's cars and he told me to check input voltage. i have nothing
|
|
|
GeorgeM
|
| posted on 20/5/09 at 09:52 PM |
|
|
Dan connect a 12v supply to the red
on the coils through a fuse. Pretty sure
the car will start
GeorgeM
|
|
|
GeorgeM
|
| posted on 20/5/09 at 09:55 PM |
|
|
Tim, you know the car better than anyone.
You havn't left the stop switch hidden
somewhere as an immobiliser have you??
GeorgeM
|
|
|
daniel mason
|
| posted on 20/5/09 at 10:01 PM |
|
|
the car has a fia battery switch. then a key ignition then a start switch. i am also sure it will start but how have i lost voltage and should i be
doubling up another fuse as its full at moment
|
|
|
