Davey D
|
| posted on 13/9/09 at 08:24 PM |
|
|
Found source of Diff noise!
Recently ive been getting an odd rattle/vibration noise at speeds of around 60mph+ which ive become more, and more wary of. It only makes the noise on
neutral throttle, i.e there is no noise when the transmission in under load through either acceleration, or deceleration engine braking. So this
weekend, i thought id have a good look to see if i can definitively find out where the problem is.
i started by removing my centre tunnel cover so i could check the prop centre bearing was ok, which it was, i then checked both ends of the prop that
attach to the diff, and prop adapter, everything seemed fine there
Next i jacked the back end off the floor, and put it on axle stands. i then chocked the front wheels with some rubber wheel chocks ive got to stop it
wanting to go back, of forward. I then started up the engine, and went through my gears upto 6th, and then increased the speed upto around 60 when the
noise started to appear. It sounded like it was coming from the nearside of the car, which my wife confirmed as she was stood behind the car.
i then stopped the engine, and put in in neutral. i then layed under the car, and slowly spun each wheel by hand to see if i could see anything. what
i found was that the offside driveshaft looked fine, rotated nice, and smooth, with no movement, but the nearside shaft was moving in and out. The end
that goes into the hub looked fine, and the end that goes into the diff was fine... it was the long cetrepiece that moved about 5mm back and forth
i then started the engine again in 1st gear,a nd let the wheels spin at tickover speed. looking at the shaft it was deffinately moving in and out. as
a final check i pushed my foot against the wheel with the dodgy shaft to stop the wheel spinning, the other wheel spun up fine, i then released it,
and pushed my foot against the good side so the dodgy side would spin up, and the shaft/diff on that side started making a grating/clattering noise,
so there was definately something wrong with just that side.
so we decided to take remove the shaft to see what was going on.
after removing the shaft i removed the cv boot, and had a feel around inside, and it felt like there was something not quite right
so i held the driveshaft up, and gave it a little tap on the floor, and this shard of metal fell out  
it is round in profile, and looks like it os off something circular in shape... i can only presume that the rest of it is floating around inside
somewhere too. when you rotate the cv joint around mimicking its motion it is very clunky, and notchy, so it is definately fecked in there
Could have been much worse though.. could have been the diff knackered, and id have to try find another 3.38
What is by best option to get back on the road?
buy 1 new shaft?
buy a pair of shafts?
get this shaft repaired?
Are driveshafts normally modified lengthwise to fit in these, or should any sierra push in shaft work?
[Edited on 13/9/09 by Davey D]
|
|
|
|
|
nick205
|
| posted on 13/9/09 at 08:31 PM |
|
|
Looks like a bit of circlip to me.
There's one that hols the tripode/spider onto the end of the shaft. IIRC there's 3 more that hold the 3 bearings onto each leg of the
spider.
Worth checking further to see if it's one of them come off.
|
|
|
austin man
|
| posted on 13/9/09 at 08:33 PM |
|
|
see if you can have a new joint fitted why change bothe if only one has failed
Life is like a bowl of fruit, funny how all the weird looking ones are left alone
|
|
|
Slater
|
| posted on 13/9/09 at 08:57 PM |
|
|
If you want to order a reconditioned one, do not get it from Autoparts Warehouse. This is what they sent me, it took lots of phone calls over 3 weeks
to have it collected and to get my payment refunded. Item was clearly faulty and customer service was very bad indeed.
linker
Why do they call Port Harcourt "The Garden City"?...... Becauase they can't spell Stramash.
|
|
|
wrigglypig
|
| posted on 13/9/09 at 09:46 PM |
|
|
I think that may well be part of the spring that has broken, and would explain the backward and forward movement.
|
|
|
coozer
|
| posted on 13/9/09 at 09:48 PM |
|
|
Get some new shafts Dave, or change to lobro. The lobro diff bolt on ends will push into the diff no bother and a lobro will fit on the end of your
push in shaft (as long as its 36~28mm and not 23~24).
I'm currently changing my diff to a one that uses bolt on shafts and just removing the inner ends off the push in shafts to replace with bolt on
lobro's
1972 V8 Jago
1980 Z750
|
|
|
Davey D
|
| posted on 14/9/09 at 10:57 AM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by coozer
Get some new shafts Dave, or change to lobro. The lobro diff bolt on ends will push into the diff no bother and a lobro will fit on the end of your
push in shaft (as long as its 36~28mm and not 23~24).
I'm currently changing my diff to a one that uses bolt on shafts and just removing the inner ends off the push in shafts to replace with bolt on
lobro's
What would i gain from doing that though, apart from more expense?
What does the "as long as its 36~28mm and not 23~24" mean? are there different types of push in shaft?
ive tried ringing my local motor factors for a price of a single shaft, but they are asking what model it is off? i have told them its for an old 2.3d
sierra? as i believe it is those that had the 3.38 diff?
|
|
|
.jpg)
