Rena
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posted on 31/3/16 at 08:40 AM |
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Type 9 input shaft seal
Hi,
My type 9 was leaking a lot of oil last season, so Iīm currently trying to change oilseals and gaskets.
Did managed to change the oil seal to the propshaft, but when I tried to change the seal for the input shaft it didnīt work. The sealing was too tight
and even with a hammer and a sprocket it didnīt work.
Will try with my friends hydraulic press but before, is there any other solution to solve this?
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Oddified
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posted on 31/3/16 at 09:16 AM |
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Smear oil around the seal and the recess it fits into, makes it much easier to fit.
Ian
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Rena
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posted on 31/3/16 at 10:14 AM |
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quote: Originally posted by Oddified
Smear oil around the seal and the recess it fits into, makes it much easier to fit.
Ian
Tried that to, but didnīt work.
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Oddified
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posted on 31/3/16 at 10:47 AM |
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Assuming it's the correct seal/size, with a bit of oil around i've never had a problem fitting that oil seal and i've rebuilt quite
a few type 9 boxes over the years. Suitable size big socket and tap it in, so i don't know the answer for you.
Ian
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nick205
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posted on 31/3/16 at 11:36 AM |
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A press may force it in and risk deforming it and ruin the seal. I've not done it myself, but would have expected it to drift in with a hammer,
large socket and a little grease.
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Rena
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posted on 31/3/16 at 11:51 AM |
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I bought it from bearingkits.co.uk and as far as I know there are only one type of sealing for type 9 input shaft...
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gremlin1234
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posted on 31/3/16 at 12:39 PM |
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maybe heat the casting, and chill the seal ?
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Rena
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posted on 31/3/16 at 12:42 PM |
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quote: Originally posted by gremlin1234
maybe heat the casting, and chill the seal ?
Tried that to, didnīt work. Have ordered a new....
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nick205
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posted on 31/3/16 at 01:37 PM |
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The other thing you could try is talking ro your local Ford dealer. Mine was exceptionally helpful for parts and advice during my build.
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perksy
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posted on 31/3/16 at 07:38 PM |
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Hmmm done a few of these and never needed a press
Think a press would knacker the seal to be honest, as said above a tiny smear of grease and it should go in
Trick is to make sure it is absolutely square on the way in
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02GF74
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posted on 1/4/16 at 06:13 PM |
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Sounds like not the correct part. These are a gentle press fit not needing much force.
Measure size and see if you can match it on simplybearings website.
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tr7v8
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posted on 1/4/16 at 08:48 PM |
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Also when you do fit it, put some tape over the splines so you don't tear the seal. Also lube the seal with a litle vaseline to stop it burning
on first start.
Jim
2005 Porsche Cayenne S
2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee Sold
2010 Maxda MX5 Sport Tech
2000 Porsche Boxster S (now sold)
Light travels faster than sound. That's why certain people appear bright until you hear them speak.
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Rena
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posted on 2/4/16 at 06:47 AM |
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I have emailed bearingkits and also ordered a new one to see if it fits better, I looks like they have sent me the wrong seal.
Does anyone have the correct dimensions of the seal and the "input shaft tube" where the seal should fit?
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Rena
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posted on 2/4/16 at 07:34 AM |
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Now I feel like a completely IDIOT! Went out to the garage to measure the seal and tube again, then I figured out I havenīt removed the whole old
seal! I took a screwdriver and then...... GAH!!!
Well, itīs my first car I build, have to blame it on that.
Thanks for your help! Just one short question, the area marked red in one of my pictures, which direction should it be placed? up, down, left or
right?
[Edited on 2/4/16 by Rena]
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Oddified
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posted on 2/4/16 at 09:19 AM |
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Yes, that'll be why the new seal wouldn't fit!
The cut out/notch goes down.
Ian
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perksy
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posted on 2/4/16 at 11:10 AM |
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Oooops
As Ian says above the form in the casting points downwards
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