Andrzejsr
|
| posted on 23/7/25 at 10:35 PM |
|
|
First track impressions MNR Vortx Inboard CBR 1000RR sc 59
Hi!
wanted to share my second (second without failures  so no DNF and DNS) TD with MNR vortx CBR 1000rr :
https://youtu.be/6yu2dFsRwp0?si=Cbsy3snG2mQT9Ux8
My first impressions compared to Westfield Aerorace i drove few years - MNR is so much easier and more planted, easier to control rear loose, more
able to steer with throttle on / off to turn/rotate, and this slipper clutch !!! - what a great tool , no spin on exit . It is more
'connected" to driver.
Was not easy to build MNR , poor company support, not much know how (but some thanks to this Forum) , now I have read sad news regarding Marc Nordon
health  .
But really this is properly designed chassis and suspension kitcar. Total weight 450kg (without me) , with all that triangulated , stiff and not
twisting as Westfield (in my case Aerorace so stiffened) chassis and huge cage.
https://aswestfield.wordpress.com/
|
|
|
|
|
roadrunner
|
| posted on 24/7/25 at 11:06 AM |
|
|
Looking and sounding nice  
|
|
|
jacko
|
| posted on 24/7/25 at 04:35 PM |
|
|
Not wanting to but in but after reading your experience if anyone is looking to buy a MNR look no further then the one advertised on this forum
G
555
|
|
|
Andrzejsr
|
| posted on 24/7/25 at 11:14 PM |
|
|
Honestly, Marc Nordon really engineered an excellent suspension and chassis — the car handles predictably and feels like it's on rails. That
said, there's another side to it: access to parts, the possibility of fabricating your own wishbones, and overall know-how. For example, proper
bearing setup on the rocker arm, or using the correct bolts for wishbone bearings, etc.
My first trackdays with the Westfield Aerorace, fitted with Nitron shocks and loads of adjustability, different ARBs, etc., were full of spins and
constant tension — always wondering which wheel would let go next. Sure, that's a kind of fun in itself.
But it's something entirely different when you drive a suspension setup that transforms a cheap road-going kit car versus one designed by an
actual racing driver who truly understands what it's all about.
As for used MNR I would strongly advise to look at rocker arms bearings.
https://aswestfield.wordpress.com/
|
|
|
adithorp
|
| posted on 25/7/25 at 03:07 PM |
|
|
Nice video.
Are you up-shifting with the clutch? Looks like it in the video and nailing clutchless changes is so much smoother. What tyres and pressures are you
running? Still appears/sounds a bit twitchy.
"A witty saying proves nothing" Voltaire
http://jpsc.org.uk/forum/
|
|
|
Andrzejsr
|
| posted on 27/7/25 at 06:57 PM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by adithorp
Nice video.
Are you up-shifting with the clutch? Looks like it in the video and nailing clutchless changes is so much smoother. What tyres and pressures are you
running? Still appears/sounds a bit twitchy.
Thanks!
I am using clutch both for down and upshifts/ I am not familiar with bike gearboxes at all (never drove a bike) , so hoping to keep gearbox in better
condition using clutch, than learning clutchless shifting, at least _yet_ until I will know the car better.
Video is on racing slicks (Michelin S412 and Pirelli DM both 200/540/13). Few sessions before was driving Yoko A052 (185 (540 dia) front , 205 (570
dia) rear) . Both approx 1,2bar (like I was driving in Westfield)
On slicks was approx 3 sec faster (1:16 vs 1:19 per lap) .
Yeah , It is setting / aligment from garage, roughly almost road-geometry, not much of camber etc, no ARB', there was few situations where rear
was too lively but so easy to control in this chassis.
https://aswestfield.wordpress.com/
|
|
|
adithorp
|
| posted on 28/7/25 at 10:11 PM |
|
|
Clutchless upshifts aren't nearly as difficult as you might think.
While on throttle, apply pressure to the lever and then briefly come off throttle then plant it again. As the transmission unloads, it'll shift
and you give it a bit of help .Just be bold. Simples!
It's not hard on the transmission. I've just gone past 50,000miles on mine. The changes are also easier/smoother when done hard eather than
easy. There's an article out there in the Internet by Mike Hewland (Hewland gearboxs) where he says the harder you drive a dog box the better it
is for it.
I'd avoid doing it first to second as you're going through neutral and it can be a bit trickier and at low speeds as it needs a harder pull.
"A witty saying proves nothing" Voltaire
http://jpsc.org.uk/forum/
|
|
|
Andrzejsr
|
| posted on 29/7/25 at 06:29 PM |
|
|
"There's an article out there in the Internet by Mike Hewland (Hewland gearboxs) where he says the harder you drive a dog box the better it
is for it.
" - Yes, I remember , have read before started to drive H-pattern dogbox . Tring to operate quick but stiill witch clutch.
Need to practice, sadly can do that only on track which is not so often, but try will following Your suggestions, thanks!
https://aswestfield.wordpress.com/
|
|
|
