Gergely
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| posted on 13/11/06 at 01:44 PM |
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I am ready to source my donor bits, help me what I need!
Hi guys,
I still have some saving to do before I order my kit, but I think I have decided on the WortX. In the meantime I want to source my donor parts and
clean them to be ready for the build.
I will not buy a complete donor car, but instead buy the bits that I need from the scrapyard, or even new if I don't find nice ones (brake
discs, pads...). Can you help me put together a comprehensive, exact list that I can use to go to the scrapyard and collect the bits?
- Brakes - I understand solid ones are more than enough, but what size should I go for?
- Diff - what would be best for an R1 BEC for mostly fast road use, one or two trackdays a year. Tell me what you think is ideal and what is OK if we
also look at costs. And how do I identify the different ones?
- Hubs, uprights, steering column, small bits, etc. Can you help me what I need? What car, what model, exact type, how to identify and what to look
for?
Any parts that require modification I will buy from MNR, so I don't need to source those.
Thanks for your help. If I start collecting the bits, I will start my build theoretically!! Great!
Gergely
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smart51
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| posted on 13/11/06 at 02:15 PM |
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Are you building an RT, and RT+ or a super version of the VortX? The RT uses a Ford Sierra front axle, the others are cortina I think.
For the sierra front end, you will need the uprights and hubs, the brake calipers plus discs and pads. You will need a non PAS steering rack with
track rods and rod ends and you will need the whole steering column. The rack and lower column will need to go to MNR to be modified. It may be
cheaper to ask MNR to supply these parts for you.
The solid disc is said to be more than enough for road use and is quite a bit lighter. This is the one to go for. There is only one size.
For the rear, you will need a diff and half shafts, hubs, uprights and complete brakes. either drums or discs are good enough.
I have a 3.62 limited slip diff. It is just fine. Some people prefer a 3.38 or a 3.14 diff. These are rare and more expensive. They give you more
top speed, I only get 193 km/h with a 3.62. You get sless acceleration with these diffs but the difference is small.
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chockymonster
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| posted on 13/11/06 at 03:04 PM |
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Gergely,
if I remember you're going for the RT+?
I didn't dismantle my donor either, I don't have the space to be able to.
You will need uprights and brakes from a cortina. If your budget allows do not use the Ford M16 calipers, buy a pair of Raceleda R16 calipers from
MNR. They are much, much lighter and very pretty 
You will need a manual sierra rack, a sierra steering column, switchgear and wheel.
Sierra diff and driveshafts.
I went for the drum rear end from a 2.3 diesel sierra with push in drive shafts as it is lighter and used a conversion plate and sierra rear brake
calipers. This also gave me a 3.38 diff.
Paul
PLEASE NOTE - Responses on Forum Threads may contain Sarcasm and may not be suitable for the hard of Thinking.
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Gergely
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| posted on 13/11/06 at 04:31 PM |
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If funds allow, I would like an RT+ inboard.
Do I understand well that for this car I would need Cortina front and rear hubs and uprights, also brake discs and calipers (if not Racelada
calipers). Is the Cortina rear brake disc or drum only?
If I buy the modified parts from MNR, I don't need the steering column and rack (I plan to buy the quickrack), right? So switchgear and
steeringwheel is all I need.
Then for the diff, a Sierra one. I don't need a LSD, so what should I go for then? Also, how can I identify which is which?
Thanks a lot!
Gergely
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Krismc
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| posted on 13/11/06 at 08:02 PM |
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Ive got a inboard RT plus as you put it!!! 
when i got my spares i got all the gear from one doner a sierra xr4x4, including rear callipers and hubs, Half shafts, 3.62 LSD, a steering rack -so
MNR can modify it to suit (to a quick rack) and a steering coloum(that is not cast!!) so it can be extended by MNR, a handbrake, steering wheel,
handbrake cable(i bought a new one)
Alsoi sent the rear brakes off as they where really corroded to brakes international and they sent me a fully refurbed set with new disks and pads,
(£100 for refurb and £26 for disks and pads) then cortina raceleada setup up front hubs, callipers and brakes etc
Expect to pay
Hubs and carriers, Callipers £15
Diff £30
Type 9 Box £40-£60
Half shafts £10 each
handbrake £10
Steering coloum with link and rack £20
I got all the rear end for £70 the box for £30 and the steering and handbrake for £10- so haggle
and all the best, and good luck with the build
[Edited on 13/11/06 by Krismc]
[Edited on 13/11/06 by Krismc]
Built, Ivaed, Drove and now Sold - 2011 MNR VORTX RT+ 2000cc Zetec on R1 Throttle boddies.
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Gergely
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| posted on 14/11/06 at 11:31 AM |
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Thanks Krismc,
Do I understand right that no matter if I chose the RT or the RT+ the following should come from the Sierra:
Rear brake calipers, discs, pads, hubs, diff, half shats, steering rack (modified), steering column (modified), handbrake, steering wheel, handbrake
cable.
For the front, the uprights, hubs, brakes should be Sierra for the RT and Cortina or Racelada for the RT+. Is that correct?
It seems that the 3.38 diff should be OK for the R1 right? How do I identify one? Is it marked somehow?
Thanks!
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chockymonster
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| posted on 14/11/06 at 11:40 AM |
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Gergely,
You understand correctly.
There should be a tag on the diff
It will have
casting # type Ratio
XXXX MM 314/338/362/392
The casting number will always be different, the type on an open diff will be a combination of numbers/letters, on an lsd diff it will always have 2
As. the ratio will be the numbers of the ratio without the .
The only LSD versions are 362 and 392
PLEASE NOTE - Responses on Forum Threads may contain Sarcasm and may not be suitable for the hard of Thinking.
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Gergely
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| posted on 14/11/06 at 03:12 PM |
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Thanks again Paul!
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rybarik
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| posted on 11/12/06 at 11:00 AM |
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Gergely,you have U2U
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