stuart_g
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posted on 12/7/08 at 04:37 PM |
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First drive today.
I went out for the first drive in my car today, it's bloody quick, I'm well impressed. I've never driven a seven before untill
today.
I have one little problem and that is a noise which sounds like it's coming from the propshaft at the diff end. It occasionally makes a knocking
noise when pulling away and makes a vibrating noise when coming off the throttle while slowing down at about 5-6k rpm. I have had a look and
everything seems to be done up tight, any ideas?
Prop is new and is a TRT.
I also have slop in the diff, I can turn the flange about 10mm. Is this normal or could it cause the symptoms above.
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IDONTBELEIVEIT
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posted on 12/7/08 at 05:52 PM |
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the slop in the diff sounds like you or somebody else hasnt set the mesh depth correctly,the round toothed flanges either side of the diff(sierra)
regards wayne!!
Rescued attachment DSCN1676 modded.jpg
Are We There Yet, Are We There Yet!!!!
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stuart_g
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posted on 12/7/08 at 07:01 PM |
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quote: Originally posted by IDONTBELEIVEIT
the slop in the diff sounds like you or somebody else hasnt set the mesh depth correctly,the round toothed flanges either side of the diff(sierra)
regards wayne!!
The diff hasn't been apart, not by me anyway. I bought it from a ford spares place.
It is strange though as I can't remember it feeling like there was that much slop in it before I fitted it. Could the part of the drive shaft
that goes into the diff be the wrong length? I bought the drive shafts seperately, obviously they are different overall lengths but what about the
part that goes into the diff, are there different length's?
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matt.c
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posted on 12/7/08 at 07:17 PM |
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The noise that you are hearing is quite normal. Its just the slack being taken up. Mine has a TRT and does the same. Try driving a bec without a TRT
fitted.
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adithorp
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posted on 12/7/08 at 07:40 PM |
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Some knocks and clunks are normal. I found it quite disconcerting at first. I hardly notice it now. Its made worse by the panels acting like drums. I
put a square of sound mat (CBS sell it) in the middle of every panel (on the underside) and its a lot quieter.
adrian
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amalyos
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posted on 12/7/08 at 09:11 PM |
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You will get lots of clonks from the diff and box, but if it's really bad from the rear, you might find that the planet gears are worn.
I had an LSD that was very worn and made some horrendous noises. I ended up replacing the diff.
http://stevembuild.blogspot.com
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Wells
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posted on 13/7/08 at 08:26 PM |
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Make sure the propshaft bolts are tight were it meets the diff. Also check the bolts at the front of the shaft as knocking noises will travel along
the prop. That solved my problem as they were working there way loose.
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stuart_g
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posted on 14/7/08 at 06:43 PM |
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Definately a problem with my diff, I now have oil coming out of it somewhere, I found some on the floor of the car today coming from under the tunnel
cover. I fitted a new front seal before it went in the car aswell. Going to have to investigate this now, may be a good idea to take it out of the
car and get it checked over.
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finlay
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posted on 15/7/08 at 09:53 AM |
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thats a bit of a bummer, sorry to hear that
hope you get it sorted
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stuart_g
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posted on 15/7/08 at 08:56 PM |
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Got the diff out of the car tonight, not fun can see what the problem is though, seems to be the planet gears are knackered. Going to get it
rebuilt so should be a lot better when it comes back.
The diff was not supplied by MNR by the way, I sourced it myself, just in case anyone was thinking it. I posted in this section as it was my first
drive in the car and I had a big cheesy grin all weekend can't wait to get it all back together now.
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coozer
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posted on 16/7/08 at 02:50 PM |
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Not just worth getting another and bunging it in? Got to be cheaper than a rebuild??
Steve
1972 V8 Jago
1980 Z750
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Johneturbo
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posted on 16/7/08 at 04:55 PM |
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quote: Originally posted by coozer
Not just worth getting another and bunging it in? Got to be cheaper than a rebuild??
Steve
depends on the ratio, a 3.38 can be around £200 and then it could be a pile of poo!
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stuart_g
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posted on 16/7/08 at 06:27 PM |
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quote: Originally posted by Johneturbo
quote: Originally posted by coozer
Not just worth getting another and bunging it in? Got to be cheaper than a rebuild??
Steve
depends on the ratio, a 3.38 can be around £200 and then it could be a pile of poo!
Rebuild is costing £230+vat, not exactly locost but for that the only original parts will be the crown and pinion wheel which thankfully are O.K.
It is a 3.38 and as we all know are hard to get hold of and as John says you can pay a lot of money for one which could be knackered. I only paid £47
for it in the first place so well worth the cost of a rebuild.
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eccsmk
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posted on 16/7/08 at 10:45 PM |
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quote: Originally posted by matt.c
The noise that you are hearing is quite normal. Its just the slack being taken up. Mine has a TRT and does the same. Try driving a bec without a TRT
fitted.
like mine
TING TING TING
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