Hi everyone,
i just thought i'd start a thread for my build. Im planning to build it as per the book in 6 months. I don't know if its possible but
hopefully you lot can keep me in accountable! I want to avoid even the thought of upgrading anything until it is built. i don't want any
distractions and thats why i'm limiting my options and building it as per the book.
anyway, I'm off the hopefully buy the donor sierra today. its got a 1.8 cvh engine which is slightly annoying. i would have preferred a pinto but
if i waited for one of them then i might be waiting forever.
i"ll take some pictures when i get it home!
matt
Good luck Matt! Wish I'd gone for a Haynes Roadster now - Ahhhhh hindsight.
Will be interested to see your build and whether you manage it in the 6 months
Cheers
Tony
I built mine with a 1.8 CVH and it is a really easy engine to install and get running, and has plenty of power.
If you are planning to install a Zetec after SVA the 1.8 CVH also makes this easy as the Zetec is a development of the 1.8 CVH, so the exhausts are
interchangeable with a bit of fettling and the CVH flywheel also can be made to fit and is really light.
Stu
Nothing like as bad as you would be led to believe, got to be shorter than a Pinto too?
1.8CVH bike carbs + megajolt = surprising!!!
[Edited on 30/4/15 by Surrey Dave]
Good luck - I thought it might take me a couple of years - that was 3 years ago and to the untrained eye I have made very little progress (to the
trained eye it's not much better!!!)
I think the CVH engine went into the Mk3 RS Turbo - so can't have been all that bad surely...?
I got a Pinto in my Sierra - 1.6 and apparently good for 69bhp when new. I expect some horses have escaped since 1985, so I would not complain too
much!!!
[img][/img]
so here is the donor car!
donor car before purchase
at home
donor at home bonnet up
i dont have space to store the whole shell so i plan to strip it for parts in one go! (obviously, thoroughly labelling as i go!) what tools would
people recommend for getting parts off/out?
[Edited on 30/4/15 by MatthewHorton]
Welcome to the nut house.
There´s a member here that has a signature that reads:
You can do it quick, you can do it well, you can do it cheap.... PICK TWO!!
Good luck with the build... I´ve been at it for seven years, two of them lost to a Back injury and the other two to the corresponding mess and neglect
the shop was subject to during the first two.... So, all in all 3 years actual building...
Pretty fun process though... for me one of the most enjoyable hobbies...
Angel Acevedo
haha so true! mine is going to look like a rat rod! and i embrace that! hopefully it should still be 95% the driving experience!
I have always said that the quickest way with anything is to do it right first time.
Good luck with your build
Paul G
quote:
Originally posted by MatthewHorton
haha so true! mine is going to look like a rat rod! and i embrace that! hopefully it should still be 95% the driving experience!
quote:
make sure you use the 2nd addition how to build a car as there are changes to the first book
I'm going down a rabbit hole now and reading the forum and reading about caster angle being incorrect in the book design??
That's easy to sort, until you find the nice 2.25" shock absorbers you buy barley clear.
The smallest changes will have knock on affects.
Good luck
You could do it in 6 months if you don't work for a living and have nothing else to spend your time doing?(wife/kids/family )
Good luck with the build, but imo you will do well to have it road worthy this time next year
As you are making it treat the book as a guide, make the wishbones then use these to align for caster (top bone at its outer edge set back around 10mm
from the lower bone) and tack the brackets then position the shock.
As big Wasa states, 2 1/4" shocks are tight so just make the bones a bit wider if worried about this, also shocks take 1/2" bolts so do not
use metrics.
My preference is the original book, the car is smaller if I was to make again I would reduce even more and make narrower!
quote:
Originally posted by MatthewHorton
I'm going down a rabbit hole now and reading the forum and reading about caster angle being incorrect in the book design??
quote:
Originally posted by MatthewHorton
Hi everyone,
i just thought i'd start a thread for my build. Im planning to build it as per the book in 6 months. I don't know if its possible but hopefully you lot can keep me in accountable! I want to avoid even the thought of upgrading anything until it is built. i don't want any distractions and thats why i'm limiting my options and building it as per the book.
anyway, I'm off the hopefully buy the donor sierra today. its got a 1.8 cvh engine which is slightly annoying. i would have preferred a pinto but if i waited for one of them then i might be waiting forever.
i"ll take some pictures when i get it home!
matt
Matt if you want to sell the door cards and some of the interior of your donor give me a shout, need them to finish my P100.
Cheers,
Bob
quote:
Originally posted by jps
I think the CVH engine went into the Mk3 RS Turbo - so can't have been all that bad surely...?
quote:
Originally posted by big_wasa
That's easy to sort, until you find the nice 2.25" shock absorbers you buy barley clear.
quote:
Originally posted by mark chandler
As big Wasa states, 2 1/4" shocks are tight so just make the bones a bit wider if worried about this, also shocks take 1/2" bolts so do not use metrics.
quote:
Originally posted by splitrivet
Matt if you want to sell the door cards and some of the interior of your donor give me a shout, need them to finish my P100.
Cheers,
Bob
quote:
Originally posted by mcerd1
quote:
Originally posted by jps
I think the CVH engine went into the Mk3 RS Turbo - so can't have been all that bad surely...?
You could tune up the CVH, there are still plenty of 1.8/1.9 Westfields around, but as above the swap to the more modern zetec doesn't get any easier and they are so cheap that it's silly not to give them serious thought
I'd say stick with the stock CVH for now (nice easy emissions test at the IVA, and can count towards an age related plate if you don't want a Q plate for some reason)
Then swap to a 1.8 or 2.0 zetec later on
The 1.8 blacktop zetecs are nice revvy engines that only need a set of cams to get nearly the same power as the 2.0 and they are a fair bit cheaper too
[Edited on 1/5/2015 by mcerd1]
I have been thinking about this all day and realised you are using a sierra back axle but the ron champion book is for a beam axle
jacko
quote:
Originally posted by jacko
I have been thinking about this all day and realised you are using a sierra back axle but the ron champion book is for a beam axle
jacko
quote:
Originally posted by PorkChop
quote:
Originally posted by jacko
I have been thinking about this all day and realised you are using a sierra back axle but the ron champion book is for a beam axle
jacko
This is what's confusing me slightly. I thought that were plans to fit the Sierra IRS to a Locost, but these weren't official plans.
So are we talking about the book written by Ron Champion or Chris Gibbs?
Matt u2u me when youve got the motor and when youre ready to strip it. I'll gladly give you a hand to strip it it return for the bits I need.
I'll bring my tools with me.
Cheers,
Bob
[Edited on 2/5/15 by splitrivet]
Self jigging chassis pack should speed things up
Ambitious but doable. It will take dedication though.
Are you going to Stoneleigh show this weekend. I know you're in a rush to get working but the chance to look at and photo' loads of finished
cars could save you lots of head scratching later. The weather is looking best on Monday so I'd expect more cars there than on Sunday.
quote:
Originally posted by splitrivet
Matt u2u me when youve got the motor and when youre ready to strip it. I'll gladly give you a hand to strip it it return for the bits I need. I'll bring my tools with me.
Cheers,
Bob
[Edited on 2/5/15 by splitrivet]
quote:
Originally posted by adithorp
Ambitious but doable. It will take dedication though.
Are you going to Stoneleigh show this weekend. I know you're in a rush to get working but the chance to look at and photo' loads of finished cars could save you lots of head scratching later. The weather is looking best on Monday so I'd expect more cars there than on Sunday.
quote:
Originally posted by Bluemoon
Self jigging chassis pack should speed things up
quote:
Originally posted by MatthewHorton
quote:
Originally posted by PorkChop
quote:
Originally posted by jacko
I have been thinking about this all day and realised you are using a sierra back axle but the ron champion book is for a beam axle
jacko
This is what's confusing me slightly. I thought that were plans to fit the Sierra IRS to a Locost, but these weren't official plans.
So are we talking about the book written by Ron Champion or Chris Gibbs?
Im building the haynes roadster! sorry i didn't make that clear! its the Chris Gibbs book! i dont know if that make some previous comments irrelevant?
quote:
Originally posted by MatthewHorton
I'm going down a rabbit hole now and reading the forum and reading about caster angle being incorrect in the book design??
So yes most of what you have read and comments are for the "Ron" book based on the mk2 escort /cortina.
quote:
Originally posted by Rosco86
quote:
Originally posted by MatthewHorton
I'm going down a rabbit hole now and reading the forum and reading about caster angle being incorrect in the book design??
So how about this then to?
ok, so i've just been given a welding machine. its a 13amp arc welder. question is, is it up for the job!?
it says 3.2Kw on the front.
as you can see, i've got some rods too but i doubt they're the correct size for anything!
[Edited on 4/5/15 by MatthewHorton]
It takes a great deal of skill to weld thin steel correctly with an arc welder, you need to say thank you, but no thanks and hand that beast back.
Really you want a 150amp mig welder and decent sized bottle of gas using 0.6mm wire, if you get a second hand machine bank on needing to buy a new
liner, not expensive and make sure the wire is not rusty from storage.
Also get a full face mask, ideally an auto one as when welding you need both hands, if right handed support you wrist with your left hand to keep the
nozzle evenly spaced from the work, it makes a big difference!
Regards Mark
[Edited on 4/5/15 by mark chandler]
I would think about buying a chassis if that welder's your only option.
Or buy you self a mig and the steel for your chassis, its not that difficult to cut it your self, just cut it as you go, thats what i did, your steel should be less than £100, so with a mig it will still be cheaper than a flat pack kit
I have a selection of cutting tools, plasma, power hacksaw, selection of angle grinders.... for the chassis the best one is a hand hacksaw with decent blade in a quality vice, set the board out right mark the steel and cut along the jaws.
Thanks everyone for your advice.
quote:
Originally posted by mark chandler
It takes a great deal of skill to weld thin steel correctly with an arc welder, you need to say thank you, but no thanks and hand that beast back.
Really you want a 150amp mig welder and decent sized bottle of gas using 0.6mm wire, if you get a second hand machine bank on needing to buy a new liner, not expensive and make sure the wire is not rusty from storage.
[Edited on 4/5/15 by mark chandler]
quote:
Originally posted by mark chandler
I have a selection of cutting tools, plasma, power hacksaw, selection of angle grinders.... for the chassis the best one is a hand hacksaw with decent blade in a quality vice, set the board out right mark the steel and cut along the jaws.
quote:
Originally posted by MatthewHorton
ok i'll give it back. haha.
the going rate to hire a 150amp mig welder appears to be about £50 a week. this is going to be the cheapest option for me.
thanks again for the tips.
quote:
Originally posted by MatthewHorton
quote:
Originally posted by mark chandler
I have a selection of cutting tools, plasma, power hacksaw, selection of angle grinders.... for the chassis the best one is a hand hacksaw with decent blade in a quality vice, set the board out right mark the steel and cut along the jaws.
this sounds like an interesting technique. could you possibly elaborate a bit on how you would position what you're cutting in relation to this vice? i cant quite picture it.
thanks.
Exactly that, you line up the cut with the vice jaws and follow the jaws for a nice straight 'horizontal' cut, the jaws should be hardened
the blade just follows these.
No point hiring a welder, buy a second hand one then when finished sell on, plenty on eBay.
Also you will not get it all welded in a week, you should be able to produce the basic frame but it's adding on all the little brackets that
swallow the time, for instance allow a day to make the wishbones.... Then spend two days, remember your life and possibly others depends on how well
you weld, how accurately you can cut (do not go filling gaps with snots of weld) and also how the car will perform.
quote:
Originally posted by mark chandler
remember your life and possibly others depends on how well you weld, how accurately you can cut (do not go filling gaps with snots of weld) and also how the car will perform.
has anyone got any opinions on any of these welders for the chassis. which one should i go for?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/191569335746?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/161694688661?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
http://www.gumtree.com/p/welding-equipment/mig-welder-135-watt-hardly-used.-/1113450560
(i know this one is only 135 amps)
do i definitely need 150 amps?
many thanks!
That Powercraft one is exactly the one I got!! It's a bit cheeky for him to ask £130 for it as that was how much they cost new (they were never
£190).
This is the same one from Amazon for £155;
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Combination-Smooth-Welder-Accessory-Wheels/dp/B00CLPOTV8
Having said that, I suspect most people would put the Powercraft/Wolf one at the bottom of any list.
So here's the update. Money spent so far:
Chassis: £150
Donor: £500
Power craft welder: £90
Angle grinder and disks: £50
Petrol: £40
PPE: £20
Total: £850 :/
I didn't wanna spend more than £1000!
[Edited on 6/5/15 by MatthewHorton]
[Edited on 6/5/15 by MatthewHorton]