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Sump modding
Harquil1908 - 14/1/16 at 12:57 PM

Getting to the stage where I need to shorten my sump now. My mate is going to do it for me and is asking if there's any diagrams or templates that he can follow?

tims31 - 14/1/16 at 01:34 PM

For what engine?

Harquil1908 - 14/1/16 at 01:46 PM

Sorry that would have helped! It's a pinto engine.

nick205 - 14/1/16 at 02:14 PM

I had my Pinto sump and oil pickup pipe modified and sketched with dimensions what I needed. The modifier made an excellent job and included an internal baffle plate to prevent oil surge/starvation. On mine it ended up approx. 1/2" below the lower chassis rails on my MK Indy and kept clear of the road OK. Not sure what car you're building, but the kit supplier can often do this mod for you to get an accurate and reliable mod.


ETA...just seen you're building a MAC#1, they may be able to do it for you.

ETA2...a local fabricator should be able to do it for you as well, just be aware that sumps are thin sheet metal and can be difficult to weld oil tight.

[Edited on 14/1/16 by nick205]

[Edited on 14/1/16 by nick205]

Harquil1908 - 14/1/16 at 03:23 PM

I know mark at mac#1 would be more than happy to do it. Just my mate lives round the corner from me instead of 6 hours drive away and will do it for some beers.

nick205 - 14/1/16 at 03:24 PM

Have a look on my website at my modified Pinto sump (March 2004) to see what was done.

http://www.winchester7.com/

nick205 - 14/1/16 at 05:13 PM















ETA...I did clean the paint off the inside before fitting it to the engine with a new gasket!


[Edited on 14/1/16 by nick205]

[Edited on 14/1/16 by nick205]

redturner - 14/1/16 at 06:23 PM

quote:
Originally posted by nick205[/i

ETA2...a local fabricator should be able to do it for you as well, just be aware that sumps are thin sheet metal and can be difficult to weld oil tight.

[Edited on 14/1/16 by nick205]

I produce dry sump pans for some of the top engine builders in the country and believe me, they dont want sumps that leak. All our sumps are TIG welded and leak tested with dye penetrants before painting..........

Harquil1908 - 14/1/16 at 06:48 PM

That's brilliant thank you.

nick205 - 15/1/16 at 08:57 AM

quote:
Originally posted by Harquil1908
That's brilliant thank you.


Good - I hope it helps you get what you need!

To clarify, this was done for me by a local welding fabricator and cost me less than £20 to have done. It never leaked and never starved the engine of oil either.

nick205 - 15/1/16 at 02:25 PM

One small note on locating the drain plug - best located to the side so it's not knackered from underneath.

I would also add that I used a Pela suction pump to remove the old oil when changing it - hopefully a way of getting more oil out than by using the drain plug itself.

I use the Pela pump to service all my cars and have found it to be very good.