daniel mason
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| posted on 28/2/12 at 08:59 PM |
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still no joy with emissions and iva this friday, any honda enthusiasts give me some ideas?
following on from my thread a few days ago we still cant sort out co levels on the s2000 engine.
tried new cat and still no good, as far as im aware, i have only removed ac pump and fitted new belt to suit, blanked off the brake vacuum boost and
disconnected air pump and blanked the valve off.
lambda and hydrocarbons good but Co way out still. and my test is friday so too late to cancel.
[Edited on 28/2/12 by daniel mason]
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fesycresy
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| posted on 28/2/12 at 09:05 PM |
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Are you sure the cat is 100% spot on?
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The sooner you fall behind, the more time you'll have to catch up.
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daniel mason
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| posted on 28/2/12 at 09:10 PM |
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well they have both been used on almost all mnr's so cand imagine both their test cats are goosed?
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eddie99
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| posted on 28/2/12 at 09:12 PM |
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Are you definitely getting the cat hot enough? It's scary but you have to rev the nuts of it to get it hot.. Also is the cat close to manifold?
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fesycresy
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| posted on 28/2/12 at 09:15 PM |
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I assume they are testing at the end of the IVA with the cat virtually melting?
Do you know how many cells the MNR cat is and how many cells is on the S2000?
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The sooner you fall behind, the more time you'll have to catch up.
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BigLee
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| posted on 28/2/12 at 09:24 PM |
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How far away is the cat from the manifold? Needs to be quite near to get hot enough. If it 'ain't hot, it don't work! 
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johnay
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| posted on 28/2/12 at 09:31 PM |
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Hi dan
This might be of some help, I found it on the net when you said you had removed the Air Pump
Quote
S2k pumps extra fresh air to the "exhaust" for cold start which can help reducing CO and help increasing catalytic converter heat up, in
order to cut emssion.
Hope it helps I think the big BMWs use this.
It might just be bo77ocks
John
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daniel mason
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| posted on 28/2/12 at 09:43 PM |
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thanks for that,but i think thats just on initial start up mate when engine is cold.
cat is next to manifold and emissions done at engine tuners so they know what they are doing! still struggling though
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l0rd
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| posted on 28/2/12 at 10:04 PM |
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can you run both cats for IVA?
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BigLee
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| posted on 28/2/12 at 10:07 PM |
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Have you tried wrapping your manifold to keep the heat in?
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franky
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| posted on 28/2/12 at 10:15 PM |
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Maybe an air leak? how long did you run your engine for? It might need a good 25mins with high rpm to get properly warm. Whats your oil temp at?
Ignore water temp, you need your oil at 80ish deg.
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jack_t
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| posted on 28/2/12 at 10:16 PM |
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drain the tank and fill it with shell v power and disconnect the battery for half an hour, the ecu wil reset itself anf v power burns hotter, also
how new is the engine oil?
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daniel mason
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| posted on 28/2/12 at 10:18 PM |
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i think there is an underlyimg issue other then tha temperature of the cat. i am not with the car so not too sure if its wrapped or not? its still
awaiting me to collect this week
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afj
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| posted on 28/2/12 at 10:19 PM |
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Well your out of time for any big changes. But I would try in the time you have available. New plugs. New engine oil. Clean/check air filter check
any air leaks on engine and exhaust then fit a new lambda/ O2 sensor. Maybe some cataclean in the fuel tank. Then fingers crossed
eerrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr
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daniel mason
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| posted on 28/2/12 at 10:20 PM |
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engine oil brand new last week. not sure on oil temps as i dont have a gauge!
new plugs fitted 2 weeks ago.
new high octane fuel in tank
[Edited on 28/2/12 by daniel mason]
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adithorp
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| posted on 28/2/12 at 10:34 PM |
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What are the readings? That'll give us a chance of working out the problem.
The most common problem people have is getting the cat hot. The cat has to reach almost 500c before it does it's stuff. That'll take a
least 15min at 3500rpm. Leave the test prob out while you do it or you risk melting it on a short system (like to guess how I know). If you
haven't got a heat shield or the cat is a long way from the manifold it's harder to achieve. It'll do nothing untill it hits that
temp.
"A witty saying proves nothing" Voltaire
http://jpsc.org.uk/forum/
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franky
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| posted on 28/2/12 at 10:41 PM |
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can you drive it there and leave it running? Seems like a lack of real heat or an air leak. As above it does take a lot to get the engine oil
properly warm. My car failed until the oil temp went above 75deg C then passed every time, it wouldn't reach those temps just ticking over.
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mikey p
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| posted on 28/2/12 at 10:44 PM |
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check for exhaust leaks would be my first point of call.
you may well not be running lambda 1 even if the gas analyser says you are...
are you on standard honda ecu?
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daniel mason
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| posted on 28/2/12 at 11:01 PM |
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dta s60 ecu. cant understand why it wont meet readings.
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daviep
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| posted on 28/2/12 at 11:44 PM |
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Do you know what all the gas readings are, need to know HC, CO and lambda to make any kind of informed guess.
Did the tuner check the emissions without the cat fitted (or before the cat) to try and establish whether the cat was functioning.
Davie
“A truly great library contains something in it to offend everyone.”
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stevebubs
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| posted on 28/2/12 at 11:45 PM |
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My 2p - Air Leak / Lambda Sensor (perhaps a mismatch...)
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PeteS2k
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| posted on 29/2/12 at 08:09 PM |
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Same engine and ECU as mine. My exhaust silencer has a cat integral with the silencer can, which may have helped to keep it hot compared to a totally
exposed cat. No problem with the emissions. I had to tweak the target lambda a teeny bit after a pre-IVA check on a local friendly emissions tester.
Both my pre-test mechanic and IVA examiner were prepared to let the exhaust warm up for a good few minutes before taking the readings. IVA was passed
with the DTA F20C base map, running closed loop for the bottom corner of the map. It seemed to sort itself out very nicely. I didn't get a full
mapping done till after the car was on the road.
Are you letting the ECU 'self tune' closed loop?
Edit to add: I couldn't get the Idle Air Control Valve working with the DTA, so I just removed it, blanked the holes in the manifold, and set
idle directly via the throttle stop. Needs some throttle to start (about 4%) and manually (or with the foot!) manage the idle for a couple of mins,
but otherwise it's fine.
No idea whether the IACV would have an impact on CO, but it is another potential difference between yours and mine.
[Edited on 29/2/12 by PeteS2k]
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daniel mason
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| posted on 29/2/12 at 08:24 PM |
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i have had no input whatsoever in the set up.the car went to mnr for pre iva work,then to rolling road who have struggled like hell to get it sorted.
so have no idea really
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franky
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| posted on 29/2/12 at 08:26 PM |
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did you pay for the 'map'? if so take it back and get it done properly? Have you checked for air leaks? do you know what the readings
are?
You'll get there in the end
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daniel mason
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 posted on 29/2/12 at 08:38 PM |
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not paid for any of it yet. and my power map seemed good with 180 rwhp, and that was with the collector cracked and leaking. i believe this is sorted
now. but cant get back to dyno before friday
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