PorkChop
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| posted on 1/5/15 at 08:53 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by jacko
I have been thinking about this all day and realised you are using a sierra back axle but the ron champion book is for a beam axle
jacko
This is what's confusing me slightly. I thought that were plans to fit the Sierra IRS to a Locost, but these weren't official plans.
So are we talking about the book written by Ron Champion or Chris Gibbs?
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MatthewHorton
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| posted on 1/5/15 at 10:53 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by PorkChop
quote:
Originally posted by jacko
I have been thinking about this all day and realised you are using a sierra back axle but the ron champion book is for a beam axle
jacko
This is what's confusing me slightly. I thought that were plans to fit the Sierra IRS to a Locost, but these weren't official plans.
So are we talking about the book written by Ron Champion or Chris Gibbs?
Im building the haynes roadster! sorry i didn't make that clear! its the Chris Gibbs book! i dont know if that make some previous comments
irrelevant?
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splitrivet
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| posted on 2/5/15 at 08:12 AM |
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Matt u2u me when youve got the motor and when youre ready to strip it. I'll gladly give you a hand to strip it it return for the bits I need.
I'll bring my tools with me.
Cheers,
Bob
[Edited on 2/5/15 by splitrivet]
I used to be a Werewolf but I'm alright nowwoooooooooooooo
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Bluemoon
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| posted on 2/5/15 at 08:27 AM |
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Self jigging chassis pack should speed things up 
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adithorp
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| posted on 2/5/15 at 08:35 AM |
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Ambitious but doable. It will take dedication though.
Are you going to Stoneleigh show this weekend. I know you're in a rush to get working but the chance to look at and photo' loads of
finished cars could save you lots of head scratching later. The weather is looking best on Monday so I'd expect more cars there than on Sunday.
"A witty saying proves nothing" Voltaire
http://jpsc.org.uk/forum/
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MatthewHorton
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| posted on 2/5/15 at 04:42 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by splitrivet
Matt u2u me when youve got the motor and when youre ready to strip it. I'll gladly give you a hand to strip it it return for the bits I need.
I'll bring my tools with me.
Cheers,
Bob
[Edited on 2/5/15 by splitrivet]
thanks Bob, I will definitely take you up on this. The help would be much appreciated!
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MatthewHorton
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| posted on 2/5/15 at 04:47 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by adithorp
Ambitious but doable. It will take dedication though.
Are you going to Stoneleigh show this weekend. I know you're in a rush to get working but the chance to look at and photo' loads of
finished cars could save you lots of head scratching later. The weather is looking best on Monday so I'd expect more cars there than on Sunday.
i didnt know this was on! thanks! i might go down if i can find the time. good idea.
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MatthewHorton
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| posted on 2/5/15 at 04:48 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Bluemoon
Self jigging chassis pack should speed things up
i feel like there should be a 'like' button....
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PorkChop
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| posted on 2/5/15 at 07:23 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by MatthewHorton
quote:
Originally posted by PorkChop
quote:
Originally posted by jacko
I have been thinking about this all day and realised you are using a sierra back axle but the ron champion book is for a beam axle
jacko
This is what's confusing me slightly. I thought that were plans to fit the Sierra IRS to a Locost, but these weren't official plans.
So are we talking about the book written by Ron Champion or Chris Gibbs?
Im building the haynes roadster! sorry i didn't make that clear! its the Chris Gibbs book! i dont know if that make some previous comments
irrelevant?
Some of them, yes. The Roadster uses 1.9" dampers, not 2.25" for example.
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Rosco86
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| posted on 2/5/15 at 07:36 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by MatthewHorton
I'm going down a rabbit hole now and reading the forum and reading about caster angle being incorrect in the book design??
So how about this then to?
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big_wasa
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| posted on 2/5/15 at 08:04 PM |
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So yes most of what you have read and comments are for the "Ron" book based on the mk2 escort /cortina.
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PorkChop
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| posted on 2/5/15 at 08:11 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Rosco86
quote:
Originally posted by MatthewHorton
I'm going down a rabbit hole now and reading the forum and reading about caster angle being incorrect in the book design??
So how about this then to?
I think there are mentions on the Haynes forum that there wasn't a lot of front caster in the design, but I'm definitely not the right
person to ask about Sierra based Roadsters! I just know a bit about the MX-5 version.
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MatthewHorton
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| posted on 4/5/15 at 12:42 AM |
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ok, so i've just been given a welding machine. its a 13amp arc welder. question is, is it up for the job!?
it says 3.2Kw on the front.
 
as you can see, i've got some rods too but i doubt they're the correct size for anything!
[Edited on 4/5/15 by MatthewHorton]
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mark chandler
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| posted on 4/5/15 at 06:25 AM |
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It takes a great deal of skill to weld thin steel correctly with an arc welder, you need to say thank you, but no thanks and hand that beast back.
Really you want a 150amp mig welder and decent sized bottle of gas using 0.6mm wire, if you get a second hand machine bank on needing to buy a new
liner, not expensive and make sure the wire is not rusty from storage.
Also get a full face mask, ideally an auto one as when welding you need both hands, if right handed support you wrist with your left hand to keep the
nozzle evenly spaced from the work, it makes a big difference!
Regards Mark
[Edited on 4/5/15 by mark chandler]
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big_wasa
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| posted on 4/5/15 at 06:46 AM |
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I would think about buying a chassis if that welder's your only option.
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Rosco86
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| posted on 4/5/15 at 06:51 AM |
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Or buy you self a mig and the steel for your chassis, its not that difficult to cut it your self, just cut it as you go, thats what i did, your steel
should be less than £100, so with a mig it will still be cheaper than a flat pack kit
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mark chandler
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| posted on 4/5/15 at 07:38 AM |
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I have a selection of cutting tools, plasma, power hacksaw, selection of angle grinders.... for the chassis the best one is a hand hacksaw with decent
blade in a quality vice, set the board out right mark the steel and cut along the jaws.
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MatthewHorton
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| posted on 4/5/15 at 10:13 AM |
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Thanks everyone for your advice.
quote:
Originally posted by mark chandler
It takes a great deal of skill to weld thin steel correctly with an arc welder, you need to say thank you, but no thanks and hand that beast back.
Really you want a 150amp mig welder and decent sized bottle of gas using 0.6mm wire, if you get a second hand machine bank on needing to buy a new
liner, not expensive and make sure the wire is not rusty from storage.
[Edited on 4/5/15 by mark chandler]
ok i'll give it back. haha.
the going rate to hire a 150amp mig welder appears to be about £50 a week. this is going to be the cheapest option for me.
thanks again for the tips.
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MatthewHorton
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| posted on 4/5/15 at 10:17 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by mark chandler
I have a selection of cutting tools, plasma, power hacksaw, selection of angle grinders.... for the chassis the best one is a hand hacksaw with decent
blade in a quality vice, set the board out right mark the steel and cut along the jaws.
this sounds like an interesting technique. could you possibly elaborate a bit on how you would position what you're cutting in relation to this
vice? i cant quite picture it.
thanks.
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Slimy38
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| posted on 4/5/15 at 10:38 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by MatthewHorton
ok i'll give it back. haha.
the going rate to hire a 150amp mig welder appears to be about £50 a week. this is going to be the cheapest option for me.
thanks again for the tips.
That's the cheapest option? Unless you intend to complete all the welding the work in less than three weeks (and I would be very impressed if
you could), I would suggest buying one will work out cheaper. Especially if you consider that you could sell it at the end for around 70-80% of the
price.
The Clarke 150 welder is currently less than £200, it's not the most amazing welder out there but it's a decent set for the money and
it's intended use. I've been using one from Aldi for the last few years (cost me £130!) and the only issue is that I can't use
anything more than the 0.7kg reels. That's not a big problem, I think I used two for the whole of the chassis!
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Slimy38
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| posted on 4/5/15 at 10:44 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by MatthewHorton
quote:
Originally posted by mark chandler
I have a selection of cutting tools, plasma, power hacksaw, selection of angle grinders.... for the chassis the best one is a hand hacksaw with decent
blade in a quality vice, set the board out right mark the steel and cut along the jaws.
this sounds like an interesting technique. could you possibly elaborate a bit on how you would position what you're cutting in relation to this
vice? i cant quite picture it.
thanks.
I assume he's just suggesting clamping the steel so that the cutting line is lined up with the edge of the jaws, and the thick iron of the vice
ensures the blade stays in line.
To be honest, I didn't even go that far, I marked it up, cut it with a hacksaw about half a mil away from the line and then finished it off with
a file as I fitted each piece to the chassis. I actually quite enjoyed it.
I can personally recommend Bahco blades, they're not that much more than standard blades but they chop through hollow section like it was
butter. And because they cut well, you don't have to apply as much pressure and therefore it's much more accurate (and easier!)
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mark chandler
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| posted on 4/5/15 at 01:05 PM |
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Exactly that, you line up the cut with the vice jaws and follow the jaws for a nice straight 'horizontal' cut, the jaws should be hardened
the blade just follows these.
No point hiring a welder, buy a second hand one then when finished sell on, plenty on eBay.
Also you will not get it all welded in a week, you should be able to produce the basic frame but it's adding on all the little brackets that
swallow the time, for instance allow a day to make the wishbones.... Then spend two days, remember your life and possibly others depends on how well
you weld, how accurately you can cut (do not go filling gaps with snots of weld) and also how the car will perform.
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MatthewHorton
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| posted on 4/5/15 at 11:10 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by mark chandler
remember your life and possibly others depends on how well you weld, how accurately you can cut (do not go filling gaps with snots of weld) and also
how the car will perform.
I'm already paranoid enough as it is!! haha
i will take the advice and get a second hand one and then sell it again when I'm done. thanks for the tip about the good hacksaw blades!
I came home today after buying a half done chassis and bits that have been cut to book spec but not welded on yet! Thanks, Neil and Sean!
this should get me off to a very good start!
here are some pictures:
Chassis on its way home:
 
Description
In the garage:
 
Description
Cut pieces:
 
Description
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MatthewHorton
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| posted on 4/5/15 at 11:35 PM |
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has anyone got any opinions on any of these welders for the chassis. which one should i go for?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/191569335746?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/161694688661?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
http://www.gumtree.com/p/welding-equipment/mig-welder-135-watt-hardly-used.-/1113450560
(i know this one is only 135 amps)
do i definitely need 150 amps?
many thanks!
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Slimy38
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| posted on 5/5/15 at 07:19 AM |
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That Powercraft one is exactly the one I got!! It's a bit cheeky for him to ask £130 for it as that was how much they cost new (they were never
£190).
This is the same one from Amazon for £155;
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Combination-Smooth-Welder-Accessory-Wheels/dp/B00CLPOTV8
Having said that, I suspect most people would put the Powercraft/Wolf one at the bottom of any list.
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