dome
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| posted on 28/2/16 at 06:12 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by alfas
thats what i wanted to say......
majority of cars me and my mates have bought in the past 10years would not have passed another MOT straight after purchase, even those cars passed the
MOT a few days before...and i´m not talking about stupid little details...some of the cars had really severe faults.
anyway...back to the thread.
Agreed, I'm under no illusions about the MOT test nor some of the work carried out by previous owners. The pedal setup looks original though,
hence it being worth trying the car when the front brakes are fixed and getting it tested by my tame garage. I'm also going to remove the
plumbing for the hydraulic handbrake as I'll never use it.
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mcerd1
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| posted on 29/2/16 at 08:58 AM |
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Its quite likely that the car was originally built using a single master cylinder (either from the donor car or a similar one, there are loads of
threads on here about picking the best one)
Then its likely that this was 'upgraded' at the same time as your hydraulic handbrake was added, both of these would have failed an SVA
test
Not that it helps you any, you're still going to need to sort it one way or another...
The bias bars you can get from the likes of rally design are pretty cheap so my vote would be to fit it now and save alot of messing about with the
current setup - it'll also give you more flexibility for any brake upgrades you may want to fit later 
Did you ever manage to find any clues to the master cylinder sizes that have been fitted?
If they aren't different sizes then they probably should be, if they are different then there is a good chance someone's plumbed then in
the wrong way round...
the size is often marked on the sides, 5/8" [0.625] and 3/4" [0.75] are common for quite a few cars, the smaller one should be connected
to the front brakes as per the comments above
If they are the wrong way round then correcting this would go a long way to sorting the problem, but without the bias bar for the fine adjustment
you'll be very very lucky if its 100% right
[Edited on 29/2/2016 by mcerd1]
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adithorp
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| posted on 29/2/16 at 10:23 AM |
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There's absolutely no point putting that back together; You'll only have to do it again.
The slight leak from the calipers will not be significant enough to account for the imbalance (it'd have to be pouring out). You need a proper
balence bar. You'll have to set it by trial and error as set of MOT brake rollers won't give that, due to not having weight transfer (at
IVA/SVA it's a much more complex test and they do a calculation for the F/R balance). Starting with the bearing dead centre will give the same
balance as before. Slightly to the front cylinder will be where you probably end up.
"A witty saying proves nothing" Voltaire
http://jpsc.org.uk/forum/
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Angel Acevedo
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| posted on 1/3/16 at 03:17 PM |
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Dome.
If I were you and have access to a lathe, I´d turn the "Bushing" to the Pedals tube diameter and reassemble.
Then go testing for balance at a private road.
If you run out of travel, then switch cylinders as stated somewhere above.
HTH
Edit to correct OP Name.
[Edited on 3/1/2016 by Angel Acevedo]
Beware of what you wish.. for it may come true....
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