adrianreeve
|
| posted on 21/4/10 at 06:55 PM |
|
|
crimping v soldering
What is best to use if I'm joining wires ie splicing new premier loom into sierra switches? Solder and heatshrink or crimped straight
connectors?
Cheers
Adrian
|
|
|
|
|
eddie99
|
| posted on 21/4/10 at 06:55 PM |
|
|
Crimping for sure!
http://www.elitemotorsporteng.co.uk/
Twitter: @Elitemotoreng
Facebook: http://www.facebook.com/pages/Elite-Motorsport-Engineering/153409081394323
|
NOTE:This user is registered as a LocostBuilders trader and may offer commercial services to other users
|
phoenix70
|
| posted on 21/4/10 at 06:59 PM |
|
|
I would say soldering with heat shrink myself, but then I even solder the crimped connection just to make sure they don't come apart again
|
|
|
madteg
|
| posted on 21/4/10 at 07:00 PM |
|
|
Solder and you know it will last, crimps can pull off.
|
|
|
Lars
|
| posted on 21/4/10 at 07:00 PM |
|
|
I prefer solder and heatshrink
(don't know what's better though)
|
|
|
designer
|
| posted on 21/4/10 at 07:04 PM |
|
|
Crimp every time.
|
|
|
prawnabie
|
| posted on 21/4/10 at 07:04 PM |
|
|
Industry standard is crimping as solder can vibrate and break the join.
|
|
|
prawnabie
|
| posted on 21/4/10 at 07:04 PM |
|
|
Industry standard is crimping as solder can vibrate and break the join.
|
|
|
eddie99
|
| posted on 21/4/10 at 07:07 PM |
|
|
Yeah there are a few posts on here. But the automotive preferred way is crimping. I tend to use crimp splices with heatshrink around them. Think it
ends up with a neat solution that aint being pulled off at all if you use the correct tools... If you don't have the right crimping tools.
Probably best to solder!
http://www.elitemotorsporteng.co.uk/
Twitter: @Elitemotoreng
Facebook: http://www.facebook.com/pages/Elite-Motorsport-Engineering/153409081394323
|
NOTE:This user is registered as a LocostBuilders trader and may offer commercial services to other users
|
Lars
|
| posted on 21/4/10 at 07:11 PM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by prawnabie
Industry standard is crimping as solder can vibrate and break the join.
I find it difficult to believe that it is likely that soldering is likely to brake due to vibration. Especially as the wires are not even solid
mounted. And even ecus last which are hard mounted and more likely to suffer from vibration
|
|
|
Lars
|
| posted on 21/4/10 at 07:14 PM |
|
|
Like most things in the automotive industry the standard solution of crimping is probably due to cost
|
|
|
big_wasa
|
| posted on 21/4/10 at 07:15 PM |
|
|
Crimping is best if you have the proper equipment.
If not a soldered joint is much better than a poor or even avearge crimp.
I now do as much as I can with the heatshrink crimps that are glue lined. They are really solid but can still flex.
|
|
|
prawnabie
|
| posted on 21/4/10 at 07:17 PM |
|
|
No its due to fatigue life, I know I used to test looms for lucas
|
|
|
Lars
|
| posted on 21/4/10 at 07:23 PM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by prawnabie
No its due to fatigue life, I know I used to test looms for lucas
fair enough
but still can't see our cars getting enough use to ever get to that stage
if they do I'll find out the hard way.
|
|
|
Stuart_B
|
| posted on 21/4/10 at 07:24 PM |
|
|
i would going soldering and heat shrink, all the times on cars looms, just cause with a seven water and moisture can get any were.
as well i had a loom brought from a company and one off there crimped joints burnt out, so i redone all the joints with solider and heat shrink.
cheers
stuart
black mk indy, 1.6pinto on cbr600 bike carb's.
|
|
|
adithorp
|
| posted on 21/4/10 at 07:27 PM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by big_wasa
Crimping is best if you have the proper equipment.
If not a soldered joint is much better than a poor or even avearge crimp.
I now do as much as I can with the heatshrink crimps that are glue lined. They are really solid but can still flex.
I agree. You can't beat heat shrink, glue lined, crimp terminals.
adrian
"A witty saying proves nothing" Voltaire
http://jpsc.org.uk/forum/
|
|
|
prawnabie
|
| posted on 21/4/10 at 07:32 PM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by Lars
quote:
Originally posted by prawnabie
No its due to fatigue life, I know I used to test looms for lucas
fair enough
but still can't see our cars getting enough use to ever get to that stage
if they do I'll find out the hard way.
Saying that I have soldered my loom lol
|
|
|
paulf
|
| posted on 21/4/10 at 07:33 PM |
|
|
If done with the correct tools crimping IS best and is used on aircraft looms for that reason as well.However if you only have cheap generic crimps it
is probably best to solder the joints, the main thing is to make sure that you dont get to hot and allow the solder to flow further up the wire
causing it to become rigid and a potential fail point.
Having said that I always carefully solder and heat shrink joints that I want to be permanent.
Paul
quote:
Originally posted by Lars
Like most things in the automotive industry the standard solution of crimping is probably due to cost
|
|
|
big-vee-twin
|
| posted on 21/4/10 at 08:27 PM |
|
|
As an Electrical Engineer I would say I prefer solder, but there's absolutely nothing wrong with crimps, many heavy duty cables are crimped.
The usual reason why crimps are preferred is because of safety of the installer - the less hot works the better!
High Power crimps are carried out using a calibrated crimp tool using the correct crimp that matches the tooling and they are fine.
At our level of wiring (Low Current and Low Voltage) I wouldn't worry too much about one way or the other.
Duratec Engine is fitted, MS2 Extra V3 is assembled and tested, engine running, car now built. IVA passed 26/02/2016
http://www.triangleltd.com
|
|
|
nitram38
|
| posted on 21/4/10 at 08:35 PM |
|
|
As an Electrician, there is a specific regulation in the 17th edition regs regarding terminating stranded cables.
The preference is the use of ferrules or crimps rather than solder.
Solder creep causes the cable to be brittle and therefore liable to breakage.
I think this applies to all fine standed cables
[Edited on 21/4/2010 by nitram38]
|
|
|
mad4x4
|
| posted on 21/4/10 at 08:45 PM |
|
|
Yes but how many times have you had a wire fall out of a crimp......
Scot's do it better in Kilts.
MK INDY's Don't Self Centre Regardless of MK Setting !
|
|
|
craig1410
|
| posted on 21/4/10 at 08:55 PM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by Lars
quote:
Originally posted by prawnabie
Industry standard is crimping as solder can vibrate and break the join.
I find it difficult to believe that it is likely that soldering is likely to brake due to vibration. Especially as the wires are not even solid
mounted. And even ecus last which are hard mounted and more likely to suffer from vibration
Solder is very brittle. So much so that even the tiny vibrations in old television panels can fatigue and cause open circuits on the pins of
transformers. My Dad was a TV engineer and spent many hours resoldering dry joints on the line output transformers and CRT tube panels.
The key thing with crimping is to use good quality crimps with the correct tool. Too many people just grab a crimp from Halfords and a pair of pliers
and give it a squeeze. Proper crimp dies used with the corresponding gauge of wire will withstand just as much strain as the wire itself and you will
most likely break the wire before pulling out the crimp. One of the big advantages is that the crimp crimps the insulation as well as the core.
Adhesive coated shrink sleeving is useful to protect the crimped joint after crimping by preventing water and muck getting in.
Speaking as someone who worked as a graduate electronics engineer at Lucas Automotive Electronics in Cirencester designing wiring looms and
ECU's I can assure you that crimps are not used because they are cheap. They are used because they are the best solution. In fact you would be
horrified at the cost of some of the test looms we used to build with aerospace quality connectors (crimped) and expensive wire.
Cheers,
Craig.
|
|
|
MakeEverything
|
| posted on 21/4/10 at 10:00 PM |
|
|
If youve got a proper ratchet crimper, then it will be fine, but im going to solder mine too.
Where the loom is spliced, its best to strip back and solder on. Theres no stress there for vibration especially if wrapped or heat shrink is
used.
For cable Terminations, i would use crimps every time- Round, Bullet, Spade or ferrule. Even the straight ferrule crimps help to keep the wiring
tidy, though these little buggers do have a tendancy to come off if not done properly.
Kindest Regards,
Richard.
...You can make it foolProof, but youll never make it Idiot Proof!...
|
|
|
RichardK
|
| posted on 21/4/10 at 10:02 PM |
|
|
Crimping if you've got the correct crimp tool but if you haven't then solder but don't let the solder wick up the wire.
All in my opinion of course.
Cheers
Rich
Gallery updated 11/01/2011
|
|
|
MakeEverything
|
| posted on 21/4/10 at 10:03 PM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by nitram38
As an Electrician, there is a specific regulation in the 17th edition regs regarding terminating stranded cables.
The preference is the use of ferrules or crimps rather than solder.
Solder creep causes the cable to be brittle and therefore liable to breakage.
I think this applies to all fine standed cables
[Edited on 21/4/2010 by nitram38]
But not on cars which are specifically excluded from the 17th edition (and 16th IIRC)
Kindest Regards,
Richard.
...You can make it foolProof, but youll never make it Idiot Proof!...
|
|
|
.jpg)
.jpg)
