Poorscousertommy
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posted on 10/11/12 at 05:00 PM |
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Ball joint technique
Folks, just been assembling the front hubs, all going well until I tried to tighten the nylocks on the ball joints - 5 out of 6 spin under torque.
Any tips as to how to get sufficient torque?
Also, how important is geometry at this stage, as once they are on I can see bigger problems when trying to remove them to adjust toe (track rod ball
joint, right?) and camber (upper ball joint into upper wishbone - right?)
Any hints tips and general locostbuilders knowledge appreciated.
Cheers
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pmc_3
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posted on 10/11/12 at 05:30 PM |
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Tip I got told recently was do it up with a normal nut first as much less likely to spin the joint. Once its pulled down in place whip off the nut and
replace with the nyloc.
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blakep82
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posted on 10/11/12 at 05:33 PM |
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some pressure to push the taper into the upright should be enough.
get someone to push down on the top wishbone, or a block of wood under the bottom one, or a ratchet strap (not too tight!) and it should be enough to
get the nut done up enough that it pulls the taper in itself
________________________
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don't write OT on a new thread title, you're creating the topic, everything you write is very much ON topic!
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T66
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posted on 10/11/12 at 06:13 PM |
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Block of wood under the joint, and jack the car up on the ball joint. If your car is light you might need to be creative with where you sit the wife
and kids...
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adithorp
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posted on 10/11/12 at 08:32 PM |
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What they said ^^^
Also, you don't remove the track rod end joints to adjust the tracking; Just undo the lock nut and turn the track rod in the track rod end.
To remove a ball joint undo the nut and give the hub a sharp strike at the side, 90' to the line of the taper.
"A witty saying proves nothing" Voltaire
http://jpsc.org.uk/forum/
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Poorscousertommy
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posted on 10/11/12 at 10:18 PM |
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Thanks all, shall get busy tomorrow
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stevegough
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posted on 11/11/12 at 07:28 AM |
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Just to add, some ball joints have an Allen key socket in the end of the bolt to contra-hold the bolt whilt tightening.
[Edited on 11/11/12 by stevegough]
Luego Locost C20XE.
Build start: October 6th 2008.
IVA passed Jan 28th 2011.
First drive Feb 10th 2011.
First show: Stoneleigh 1st/2nd May 2011.
'Used up' first engine may 3rd 2011!
Back on the road with 2nd engine may 24th
First PASA mad drive 26/7/11
Sold to Mike in Methyr Tydvil 19/03/14
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rusty nuts
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posted on 11/11/12 at 08:26 AM |
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The ball joints with the allen key socket are a complete waste of time IMHO same as anti roll bar drop links. Ask anyone who has tried to take one off
using an allen key
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