brettski470
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 posted on 3/6/13 at 07:02 AM |
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English Axle Oil Seal
I have noticed that the pinion seal on the Diff was leaking oil and thought that I would sort it. Its a Mk2 Escort Diff with the prop flange on the
outside.
Before attacking the car with spanner and hammer as is standard practise I have decided to do some research.
It seems that there are a nuber of posts that state you cannot replace the oil seal without replacing the crush tube and replacing the crush tube is a
specialist only job which required specialist tools.
Firstly is this true? Can I replace the Oil seal without having to replacing the crush tube?
I have seen some information that as long as you record the polision of the nut before taking it off then you should be ok. However I do not want to
risk completly destroying the Diff.
Secondly if this is a specialist only job does anyone know anywhere in Nottingham where I can take the car and get it sorted?
Newbie Builder
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Mikef
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| posted on 3/6/13 at 07:27 AM |
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I have done a few, I would say its a bit specialised, but can be done if you take care and do some homework. I would certainly suggest that you
replace the crushtube if you do do it. The big issue is getting the right amount of torque on the retaining nut. I have a rebuild sheet in pdf if you
want it?
MikeF
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Proby
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| posted on 3/6/13 at 07:27 AM |
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I've recently got hold of a seal to do mine. It is recommended by most to renew the crush tube, but my plan is to carefully mark the nut and
refit exactly as removed. I have an old mk2 escort manual which shows this exact procedure of carefully marking the nut.
[Edited on 3/6/13 by Proby]
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brettski470
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| posted on 3/6/13 at 07:45 AM |
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Hi,
Ok Looks like I will have to replace the crush tube as well. Is Ebay the best place to pick one up from?
Mikef can you send me the Pdf you have as this will be a massive help.
Proby where did you get your manual from?
If anyone has a contact in Nottingham who can sort if I decide against using the Hammer and Spanner.
Cheers
Newbie Builder
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Proby
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| posted on 3/6/13 at 08:08 AM |
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The manual is from the early 80's from when my father built a Jago Geep! I can scan pages and email if that will help?
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brettski470
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| posted on 3/6/13 at 08:11 AM |
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That would be a massive help as I was looking at an old Escort haynes manual and it wasn't making a massive amount of sence.
That coupled with the PDF stuff from mikef should help me to make a decision on either tackling myself or getting someone to do it.
Newbie Builder
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Mikef
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| posted on 3/6/13 at 08:13 AM |
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this is the place , very helpful.
http://www.englishdiff.co.uk/
if you u2u me yor email address will send the pdf.
Mikef
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britishtrident
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| posted on 3/6/13 at 10:28 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by brettski470
Hi,
Ok Looks like I will have to replace the crush tube as well. Is Ebay the best place to pick one up from?
Mikef can you send me the Pdf you have as this will be a massive help.
Proby where did you get your manual from?
If anyone has a contact in Nottingham who can sort if I decide against using the Hammer and Spanner.
Cheers
Absolutely no need to change the crush tube I have dozens perhaps close to a 100 over the last 40+ years.
However before you do
(1) Check the axle isn't over filled ---- oil should be warm and car sitting completely level as even a slight over fill will result in a
leak.
(2) The axle breather is clear.
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
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britishtrident
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| posted on 3/6/13 at 10:53 AM |
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Reaading the first post in the thread I am a bit puzzled by an English axle in a Locust ? Didn't the older Locusts use the
complete Cortina Mk3 to Mk5 setup ?
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
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brettski470
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| posted on 3/6/13 at 11:35 AM |
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Hi,
quote:
Originally posted by britishtrident
Absolutely no need to change the crush tube I have dozens perhaps close to a 100 over the last 40+ years.
However before you do
(1) Check the axle isn't over filled ---- oil should be warm and car sitting completely level as even a slight over fill will result in a
leak.
(2) The axle breather is clear.
If there is no need to change the crush tube are there any specific steps to follow when changing the pinion seal?
I filled the Diff until a small trickle came out of the filler hole after it had been run for about 15 miles, but take the point will double check it
again after a run and see if its still leaking.
How can I check if the breather is blocked or not? I had a quick look at it a couple of days ago and couldn't even remove the dust cover,
admittable only tried by hand as worried that it may not take well to tools.
Also the Locust was a typo I actually have a Locost running 1600 Sierra with Mk Escort rear axle through a type 9 5 speed box.
Newbie Builder
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brettski470
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| posted on 7/6/13 at 12:45 PM |
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Ok so gave the car a reasonale run last night and it appears that the Diff is still leaking.
I think I am going to have do something about it and Ideally want this sorted pre Newark show.
Before I start replacing the oil seal, crush tube etc etc
British Trident suggested the following.
(1) Check the axle isn't over filled whilst warm
(2) The axle breather is clear.
Took the car out for a decent run last night and still leaking.
How do I check the Breather is clear as its covered by a cap that didn't seem to want to come off?
At the moment it definately feels like I am going to end up tackling the elephant in the room and replacing the pinion seal.
Has anyone got a pictoral step by step guide to doing this?
MikeF has been immensly helpful in suppling some information but wanted to gather as much as possible before I start this.
Newbie Builder
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