KFC
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posted on 5/10/14 at 03:58 AM |
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Throttle bodies for KLDE V6 choices??
Hi all,
I'm building a V6 conversion and I'm at the stage of choosing the right set of throttle bodies. The engine is in and I have enough to get
on with it I need to get the right throttle bodies. I bought 2 sets of triumph 595's but didn't realise the port matching was going to be
so different. I'll need to make an adapter plate but my issues are the total height. From the cylinder head port face to the inside of the
bonnet, ie the top of the airbox is 21cm. It's not bad but I want to run long trumpets for torque but need the space. The 595's are nice
but have an angled face, lumps to cut off, I want to get away from making a thick angled adapter plate. It's just more work on top of what I
still have to do. A simple flat thin steel adapter plate would be ideal, that would give me a trumpet length of 5 or 6cm. I'd like longer but
it's not possible. Any suggestions or ideas are welcome. ![](/images//smilies/bigsmile.gif)
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coozer
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posted on 5/10/14 at 10:27 AM |
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Claire will be along soon to help.
1972 V8 Jago
1980 Z750
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KFC
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posted on 5/10/14 at 01:54 PM |
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I've not heard from Claire for 2 weeks with repeat emails. Not sure if she is happy with me. I got the 595 throttle bodies from her so
we'll see.
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DIY Si
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posted on 5/10/14 at 02:33 PM |
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What do you hope to gain by using a short(er) throttle body but a longer trumpet? Since the overall inlet length will be the same, I doubt you would
see much, if any, difference over a long body with a short trumpet.
The Triumph bodies I have from a 955 are a great match for the KLDE as the lean can be used to make an almost straight inlet with a nice port shape.
There aren't very many ITBs that have the oval port you need to best match the KLDE inlet either. Is the 595 version that much different?
Having said that, the 955 bodies can be shortened if you need to. But any adaptor plate, even in steel, is going to be 5-6mm thick at least for the
threads unless you can find something that very closely matches the existing bolt spacing. My ally plate is 10mm and makes fine tuning the port shape
easy enough. My plate is flat though, so does leave me needing a funny shaped air box. But I figure it's much easier to sort that than getting
angled adaptor plates done.
This is what my plates look like, and they took a full day or so each to make and port match to both the head and the ITBs. I did all the work myself,
but did get the first plate wrong so had to re-do it.
And it was all so I could have this view down the inlets. It is a fair bit of work to do it all though, as I have lightly opened up the inlets as well
as blending in the ITBs so the heads need to come off, but I'm happy with the finished result. No idea yet how much it helps power though! I do
plan on shortening the bodies and having my trumpets slide inside the bodies to give me the best shape I can manage.
“Let your plans be dark and as impenetratable as night, and when you move, fall like a thunderbolt.”
Sun Tzu, The Art of War
My new blog: http://spritecave.blogspot.co.uk/
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KFC
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posted on 5/10/14 at 10:27 PM |
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I would like the matching to be very good to the heads, the injector side is quite deep and I want it to be smooth. Also I've been told by a
very experienced engineer (cosworth prototype electrical engineer) that the longer the trumpet, you move the peak torque lower down the rev range.
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DIY Si
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posted on 6/10/14 at 05:54 PM |
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The engineer is correct, but why do you want the peak torque lower down the rev range? Surely higher is the way to go, especially given the DE's
love of revs? The same torque at higher revs means more BHP too......
Granted, I do still have a large injector recess, but I am planning on filling it with a chemical metal to smooth the shape off. It's the one
thing I'm not happy with as things are at the moment with my inlet set up.
“Let your plans be dark and as impenetratable as night, and when you move, fall like a thunderbolt.”
Sun Tzu, The Art of War
My new blog: http://spritecave.blogspot.co.uk/
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KFC
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posted on 6/10/14 at 09:58 PM |
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This will be my every day car so I won't be red lining it everywhere, I love V8 torque but can only have a V6, best to have torque low down and
horse power at the top end for me.
I did wonder how you got around the injector port, never mind, at least we're in agreement about the alignment. I'm not sure I'd
trust a compound right in front of the valves, numerous of heat cycles and pressure, I'd try to match them the best you can. It will be a while
but when I'm done I'll post photos.
Kevin
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DIY Si
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posted on 7/10/14 at 05:43 PM |
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I've tried to match the ports as best I can, but the injector recess is too big to blend away entirely. These photos show the before and after
for my shaping/porting efforts so far so you can get a feel for how much I was able to remove. A more vertical ITB might allow you to move the oval
port shape about a bit for a better fit.
As there's still a sizeable space, I can't think of another way I can fill that space up, other than a chemical metal. I suppose they
could be welded up and shaped back, but I'm not keen on that option.
“Let your plans be dark and as impenetratable as night, and when you move, fall like a thunderbolt.”
Sun Tzu, The Art of War
My new blog: http://spritecave.blogspot.co.uk/
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