se7ensport
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| posted on 22/12/16 at 08:20 PM |
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Type 9 S/C H/D questions
Hi folks
I've recently bought a tran-x straight cut heavy duty gearbox. Having taken the cover off it looks dry and unused since a previous rebuild, I
thought I would be able to select each gear with ease to verify the ratios:
1. with the cover off and no bellhousing should I be able to select all gears? at the moment I can get reverse, 1st and third easily - reluctant to
pull hard for 2nd or 4th without cover inplace
2. should I be able to rotate the input shaft in each gear? it feels as though it locks once a gear is selected..?
3. In neutral turning the input shaft causes the output drive to rotate in the same direction, is this normal?
Cheers
Alex
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obfripper
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| posted on 22/12/16 at 08:49 PM |
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The cover needs to be in place to select gears properly, otherwise the guide washer tries to drag the other selectors into gear.
You should be able to turn the input shaft in any gear (there may be some initial resistance esp with no oil)- if you can't, try selecting
neutral and turning the input shaft with the output shaft held still. if the input shaft will only turn with the output shaft you may be stuck in one
gear, or have a baulk ring that is stuck to the gear cone.
Dave
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se7ensport
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| posted on 22/12/16 at 09:27 PM |
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Dave - thanks for the comments.
I've just put 1.9l of oil into it and had another play.
I tried putting it into neutral and holding the output drive while turning the input; the two seem locked together.
Putting the box into second (it went in after a couple of attempts) the shaft will only turn about 1/8th before it stops.
Does this sound like a stuck baulk ring?
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Oddified
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| posted on 22/12/16 at 09:34 PM |
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Or you have engaged 2 gears at once. In neutral the input/output shafts should be able to be turned independently (bar some drag with the oil). Check
the 1st/2nd and 3rd/4th selectors are centered when in the neutral position.
Ian
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obfripper
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| posted on 22/12/16 at 10:00 PM |
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Spin it in neutral and check the ratio input: output. This should lead you to the appropriate gear that is at fault.
Check the selector for that gear is centred(for neutral), and check the baulk ring can be tilted slightly away from the gear(carefully pry between the
2 with a plastic lever ).
If the baulk ring is free, there may be corrosion between the gear and mainshaft, or if 1:1 the mainshaft tip bearing could be siezed in the back of
the input shaft.
Is there any freeplay at all, or do the shafts feel physically locked together while in neutral?
Dave
[Edited on 22/12/16 by obfripper]
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se7ensport
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| posted on 22/12/16 at 10:11 PM |
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narrowing it down to 4th gear issue - the ratio is 1:1 on input/output and I can get the other gears to engage but not turn, but I can't pull
the lever fully into 4th.
There is zero play, it feels as though its one steel rod running front to back!
I'm off to the kitchen to find a plastic level.
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se7ensport
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| posted on 22/12/16 at 10:22 PM |
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Ian - checked the selectors, they seem to be working as they should.
Dave - checked the baulk rings, the rear 3 all move really easy, the one at the front is solid. Can they be freed up?
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obfripper
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| posted on 22/12/16 at 11:47 PM |
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It sounds like something has broken or dislodged within the syncro hub / 4th baulk ring assembly.
You can remove the clutch guide tube, this will allow the input shaft bearing to move a few mm back and forth - if that frees up the baulk ring then
you're looking at stripping the box to find what is causing the baulk ring to jam.
The baulk rings on 3rd and 4th are known for cracking, but give different problems to what you're experiencing.
For reference i've uploaded Haynes sierra gearbox section
The type 9 diagrams don't show the synchro hub breakdown, but they're pretty much the same as the other models in the pdf.
Dave
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Paul Turner
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| posted on 23/12/16 at 03:42 PM |
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If you try to change gears with the lid off a type 9 there is an odds on chance you will select 2 gears at the same time. The large washer has to sit
in the slot in the lid to prevent this happening.
It is possible to sort it without stripping the box, did it for a mate once but to this day I have no idea what I did. One minute it was broken and
the next it was working. Only took about 5 hours in total to remove engine and box sort it and refit engine and box.
At least yours is out of the car.
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se7ensport
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| posted on 23/12/16 at 09:15 PM |
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Dave - thanks for the upload, I had a good read, its definitely jammed and needs a strip down, this isn't something I'll be undertaking
though.
Paul - the box was already stuck in 4th hence taking the top off and seeing what moved and if I could select anything else.
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Oddified
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| posted on 23/12/16 at 11:09 PM |
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Before stripping the box (nothing to loose), put it into 4th so it should still turn if the locking is in that area. Look on the 3rd gear side of the
selector and check the 3 blocker bars are visible, not broken and in the right place. Then put it 3rd and look at the other ends of the blocker bars,
broken, correct position etc.
Post a picture showing the selectors.
Ian
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se7ensport
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| posted on 24/12/16 at 05:48 PM |
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A couple of pictures.
Neutral:
 
Quaife N
and 3rd gear:
 
Quaife 3rd
No photo of 4th as I don't want to forcing it in, I tried turning the shaft with light pressure on the gearstick but no movement.
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rusty nuts
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| posted on 24/12/16 at 06:53 PM |
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Can you get any movement in 4th gear synchro hub when in neutral? If not it may be possible to ease the balk ring off of the first motion shaft using
a screwdriver? It sounds like the balk ring is stuck due to lack of use. Chances are if the box had been installed straight away after being rebuilt
there wouldn't have nbeen a problem or if there was starting the engine with the clutch depressed would have released the balk ring.
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se7ensport
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| posted on 24/12/16 at 08:01 PM |
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I've tried a screwdriver between the gear and syncro but there isn't any movement, going to the left of the ring is about 1mm, but the
left it is tight against the next gear.
 
zoom
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Oddified
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| posted on 24/12/16 at 08:55 PM |
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Is the input shaft/bearing fully home against the main casing? (without forcing it). The reason i ask is there's to much baulk ring showing on
4th gear, makes me guess that the input shaft has slid out a bit (quite easy if the gearbox nose isn't fitted) and the baulk ring is no longer
located on the 3 blocker bars.
Ian
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se7ensport
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| posted on 6/1/17 at 09:57 AM |
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Quick update: I took the box to a classic sports car specialist this morning, conclusion is that a bearing at the rear has gone causing it to stick in
4th. Whoever last used the box knew it was faulty when the sold it.
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