robertst
|
| posted on 16/3/07 at 06:48 PM |
|
|
bit confused about riveted floor
i cant stop thinking about bolting through the ally floor, i know you weld a plate before, but is it ok to have bolts sticking out of the floor under
the car?
Tom
|
|
|
|
|
ReMan
|
| posted on 16/3/07 at 06:52 PM |
|
|
No problem doing it, provided it will take the load.
Obviously you want to keep them as short as possible, to keep them neat, but in terms of their danger to people who you have just ran over, nobody
cares 
|
|
|
Guinness
|
| posted on 16/3/07 at 07:06 PM |
|
|
Anything too long just gets ground off!
If you are concerned do something like this:-
 
Section Through
The channel will slide along the ground if you bottom out, rather than ripping the bolt off.
Mike
|
|
|
MikeRJ
|
| posted on 16/3/07 at 07:07 PM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by robertst
i cant stop thinking about bolting through the ally floor, i know you weld a plate before, but is it ok to have bolts sticking out of the floor under
the car?
I've been consdiering the exact same thing when fabricating some supports to mount of seats on in the Striker. It wouldn't be so bad if
you put the bolt in from the bottom and used a dome headed bolt, but I wouldn't like to have a full nut and extra thread sticking out of the
bottom. It if caught on something it could be nasty.
I am designing captive but removable bolts into my seat brackets, basicaly a sloted piece of steel with a couple of shoulders welded on to stop the
bolt turning. This will be mounted so the bolt head is flush against the floorpan, so will gain a little bit of height, but only the thickness of the
bolt head.
|
|
|
robertst
|
| posted on 16/3/07 at 07:10 PM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by Guinness
Anything too long just gets ground off!
If you are concerned do something like this:-
Section Through
The channel will slide along the ground if you bottom out, rather than ripping the bolt off.
Mike
brilliant! i was just thinking a bout the channel bit. so if the bottom of the car were to hit something, the ally channel would get the beating and
not the bolt?
i'm just thinking of a situation where the bolt just gets cleanly ripped off... i guess theres no such situation? maybe running over a pheasant
or rabbit at say 70 mph (i obviously, conveniently forgot the animal would first go through the floor! so what me worry?)
Cheers
Tom
|
|
|
morfy
|
| posted on 16/3/07 at 07:29 PM |
|
|
i have used loads of self tappers
|
|
|
tks
|
| posted on 16/3/07 at 07:32 PM |
|
|
Wy alloy floor??
Wy an alloy floor??
Get a steel one! then its just changing a bolt..
Tks
The above comments are always meant to be from the above persons perspective.
|
|
|
robertst
|
| posted on 16/3/07 at 08:33 PM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by tks
Wy an alloy floor??
Get a steel one! then its just changing a bolt..
Tks
i went for ally as i dont want to risk making a mess of the floor. i'm afraid of warping and stuff... plus if it saves weight (IIRC it was like
30kg?) all the better plus ally doesnt rust and a shiny riveted floor looks better although no one will see it
Tom
|
|
|
robertst
|
| posted on 16/3/07 at 08:36 PM |
|
|
not long ago i saw the episode of top gear where they build a cateringvan, and you can see JC bolting the seats through the floor and i saw the ally
channel... so i guess if cateringvans have that... then all is ok
Tom
|
|
|
iank
|
| posted on 16/3/07 at 10:57 PM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by morfy
i have used loads of self tappers
Really? 
--
Never argue with an idiot. They drag you down to their level, then beat you with experience.
Anonymous
|
|
|
BenB
|
| posted on 16/3/07 at 11:43 PM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by iank
quote:
Originally posted by morfy
i have used loads of self tappers
Really?
Yeh- it's really easy to take the seat out.... just brake hard at traffic lights
|
|
|
tks
|
| posted on 16/3/07 at 11:44 PM |
|
|
Tks
The above comments are always meant to be from the above persons perspective.
|
|
|
iank
|
| posted on 16/3/07 at 11:51 PM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by BenB
quote:
Originally posted by iank
quote:
Originally posted by morfy
i have used loads of self tappers
Really?
Yeh- it's really easy to take the seat out.... just brake hard at traffic lights
Thinking about it you could use satan's little fasteners instead if rivets to fix the floor. Easy to remove if you need to, just drive for a
couple of days and it's out.
--
Never argue with an idiot. They drag you down to their level, then beat you with experience.
Anonymous
|
|
|
Bluemoon
|
| posted on 17/3/07 at 11:06 AM |
|
|
Ali U section would not last long if you bottomed out, it's just to soft. You would still hit the bolt.. I would'nt get to worryed about
the bolt head sticking out, so long as the bolts attach to somthing solid and not just the ali floor..
If your that worryed just use HT button head bolts...
Dan
|
|
|
procomp
|
| posted on 17/3/07 at 03:35 PM |
|
|
Hi use large washers and socket head button bolts from below.
Here is a link to show you the type of head i am thinking off. LINK
Whith music
cheers matt
Edit sorry like ^ he said
[Edited on 17/3/07 by procomp]
|
|
|
f27nl
|
| posted on 18/3/07 at 11:32 AM |
|
|
bolting through floor
I have no bolts through floor panneling. I used small strips of steel welded to the chassis members to attach the seats to.
I welded bolts to the brackets, the heads of the bolts are just above the inner surface of the floor.
I have ally floor riveted and "glued" with MS polymer kit.
|
|
|
