Turbo Zetec on a budget project.
I thought I would start a thread on getting my cheap as chips 2.0 zetec blactop engine to run in a kitcar using the ford Focus Rs ecu.
Aim is to get it to run at its standard 212bhp then remap to 250bhp then find something to put it in.
1hr's Work. Can I turn the immobilizer on and off.....Answer YES
There is an eBay dealer that sells the ecu's Wiring loom will be a modified st170 as the Rs loom's are much rarer. There is a guy that nocks
the St170 loom's out for a tenner on eBay
I used to have a Focus RS for a few years, awesome car for the money! If you need any questions answering, I may be able to help. If not, I'm
still a member of the RS Owners Club and that's a wealth of knowledge for the mk1.
That sort of power made the RS come alive, can't imagine it in a kit - be prepared for wheel spin! Definitely watching this thread..
James
Any info on the gt25 compressor maps. I plan to use a Scooby Td04 as there cheap just need to compare.
Mines now on sorn for 6 months......
I don't have a map to show you, but I can ask on the forum if you like?
I remember someone did ask Garrett for one, but they couldn't supply it for whatever reason. The RS Turbo is a GT2560LS which I believe is
specific to the RS. They usually sit happy at ~22Psi peak and with the right map produce 320hp+
How come you don't fancy the standard Garrett turbo?
Cost.
Good tdo4's can be had for a third of the price and are easier to find.
But ifa gt25 pops up who knows.
Gt25 comp map
http://turbochargerspecs.blogspot.co.uk/2011/03/garrett-gt25r-gt2554r-60-trim-270-hp.html
Would you not consider a t28r as fitted to pulsar gtir ???? Capable of bit over 300bhp and less leggy than tdo5 or t3 and readily available reasonably cheaply ....probably the best t2 turbo you can get in std form
I have a 2560r which is basically a ball bearing version of the old t28. standard fit on a new nissan 200sx s15 and can be picked up for £550 brand
new new! from turbo dynamics and good for around 330hp
http://www.turbodynamics.co.uk/shop/4665415001s-new-genuine-ball-bearing-turbo-for-nissan-200sx-p-1909.html
if you want to go mental then you can pick up a 2860r for about £600 360hp
even more mental is a 2860rs for around £650
if you wanna kill yourself then there is the gt3076r at £550 good for upto 525bhp lol
http://www.turbodynamics.co.uk/shop/performance-turbos-garrett-gt-ball-bearing-c-1050_1051.html?sort=3a&page=1
i mucked around with used turbos for a couple of years but finally splashed out on a new one and the difference is astonishing!
if you still want to go down the used route i have a 2-3 good t25's kicking about.
[Edited on 3/10/2014 by ashg]
I had a mk1 focus rs from new, kept it 7 years, did 115k in it.
Good car, but sluggish compared to the other fast fords I have owned.
The 1.8 turbo focus we did was a lot quicker and more responsive, the main issue with the rs is poor map from the factory. We have seen a couple of
chipped/flashed/bluefin cars and they are better but still not right.
The only way your going to get it right is use aftermarket engine management, using the stock ford stuff is clever but a step backwards.
Www.baileyperformance.co.uk
Www.facebook.com/baileyperformance
Sorry mate, all our respect has gone for you now.
WTF radio station are you listening to
The new range of borg warners are receiving rave reviews at the moment also
The TD04 is a good turbo, think they are fitted to early Impreza's, common on MX5 conversions and spin up really nice, second hand ones are cheap too!
Volvo turbos TD04- 15 and 16T make 240-250bhp stock and are pretty cheap on e-bay (~£125).
Rebuild kits aren't too expensive (£50)
Big Wasa - will you run standard compression or fit a decompression plate?
Standard. Or near to it. I may use the ford thicker head gasket used to correct the compression from skimmed heads.
I want to keep close to the Rs spec.
I understand that the Rs is not forged but half way between with sintered rods and pressure cast pistons.
Keep the charge cool and make sure there is no knock and I am sure it will be happy with 250bhp and that on a £50 engine will please me no end
[Edited on 3/10/14 by big_wasa]
Standard turbos can be had in good nick for £200 - £250, but agreed, the TD04 is a good choice also. A friend of mine has a 19T on a saab B204, it pulls!
quote:
Originally posted by BaileyPerformance The main issue with the rs is poor map from the factory. The only way your going to get it right is use aftermarket engine management, using the stock ford stuff is clever but a step backwards
quote:
Originally posted by Non custom
Gt25 comp map
http://turbochargerspecs.blogspot.co.uk/2011/03/garrett-gt25r-gt2554r-60-trim-270-hp.html
You want to check that's the correct compressor map..
The standard map is known to overfull and also has a well known 'cough' at about 4.5krpm. I thought the ecu was regarded as powerful for an
oem unit. There is a company who has managed to crack it and live map it.
Will be following this with interest. Once through the IVA with the xflow, this could be our next step up.
Standard blacktop inlet?
Rs exhaust manifold?
That's the joy of the oem ecu. It will need a cat but will pass iva / mot as it is.
The standard mondeo / focus inlet won't clear the steering column easily. The escort / fiesta will but will poke through the top of the
bonnet.
There are plenum's like the ginetta / griffin / gbs that will work.
Yes the standard exhaust mani should work fine.
I like.
I'm sure I'm being a pain asking does it need 1 live to fire up the ECU?
I'll see what I can find out about plenums. I take it that the starndard TB goes on the end of it.
Great project, Locost!
quote:
Originally posted by big_wasa
Standard. Or near to it. I may use the ford thicker head gasket used to correct the compression from skimmed heads.
I want to keep close to the Rs spec.
I understand that the Rs is not forged but half way between with sintered rods and pressure cast pistons.
Keep the charge cool and make sure there is no knock and I am sure it will be happy with 250bhp and that on a £50 engine will please me no end
[Edited on 3/10/14 by big_wasa]
watching with much interest, mine now on sorn and this is going to be my winter mod. Starting to collect a few bits already!!
Just need all of the parts :/
quote:
Originally posted by Neb
I like.
I'm sure I'm being a pain asking does it need 1 live to fire up the ECU?
I take it that the starndard TB goes on the end of it.
Any up date yet Warren??? Your fans await you
Just to show I haven't forgotten about this one.
I enjoyed a few hours in the garage on Saturday and have now got my td04 mounted on the manifold. I just need to clock it.
Which way you going?
Pointing straight up with the intercooler above the engine drawing air from behind ya nut?
Or down and 90 to the gearbox side?
charge cooler.......
I'm liking that manifold. Where is it from please?
Mine ?
It's an eBay job that's modified to fit a zetec and I've further modified it with a scooby td04 flange.
Details will all be in the final thread.
[Edited on 29/9/15 by big_wasa]
Here's a link to mine... T3 flange but there is ones for a T25.
Ford Focus Mondeo 2.0l Top Mount Turbo Exhaust Manifold
They surely can't be expected to last more than a few miles use before cracking/breaking/leaking at that price? Or are they for mock up only?
Reports on the ford forums suggest they last well if you find one with flat flanges.
Mine is for semi mock up purposes. I only need it to last a couple of days at Cadwell. To prove or not the idea of a standard zetec holding together
with 250 bhp.
Work is slowing a little but only for a few weeks. I should be working on the house in my spare time but instead I am working on this project.
So I know have a Gt25, Only took a year to find one.
Engine mock up is coming on nicely. Next job is plumbing, then wiring. Soon be make some vrum vrum noises......
Well I can't believe how long this is taking due to life.
But frank the turbo Zetec on focus Rs ecu draws breath for the first time.
Is this is the video link?
Do you have the diagram of the PATS Test Wiring?
Minimum test wiring?
I like your turbo project!
Deep respect!
[Edited on 22/5/20 by Cobra289]
[Edited on 22/5/20 by Cobra289]
Just some coolant pipes to make and it’s ready to hit the road for testing in a Locost.
Yes I have all the pin out info. I didn’t update the thread as there wasn’t much demand.
You then have five earths two switched lives and one permanent live.
With all my projects I like to share the pinouts for the ecu should some one else want to have a crack. This is to give those people that are
interested in running a turbocharged zetec engine on a budget a head start
well here you go.
Mk1 Focus Rs ecu code 6MYD.
WARNING I WILL NOT BE HELD RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY LOSSES OR INJURY RESULTING FROM USE OF THE INFORMATION CONTAINED WITHIN.
The key to using the ecu is the Pat's immobilizer. You must get at least one key with chip that is paired to the ecu.
Ford 104 pin Mk1 6MYD Focus Rs Ecu plug. C401.
Missing numbers have no connection or are not used on the Ecu.
Pin number -- colour -- function.
13 orange/black--DLC pin 13 modal program.
15 blue/black-- DLC pin 10 scp-.
16 grey/orange-- DLC pin2 scp+.
17 black/white – high speed fan relay.
19 grey/orange -- Pats TX signal.
20 black/blue -- Injector 3 switched earth.
21 white/red -- crankshaft position sensor +.
22 brown/rd --crankshaft position sensor -.
24 black/yellow -- earth.
25 black/red -- earth.
26 black/orange – coil pin 1.
27 black/red -- start inhibit relay.
28 white/violet – telemetric.
31 black/yellow -- Power steering pressure switch. N/C to earth.
35 white/red— HSO2 1 pin 4.
36 brown/blue -- MAF pin 4.
37 white/violet Iat in maf pin1. ( inlet air temp)
38 white – Head coolant temp sensor pin 1.
39 white violet – Iat in elbow. ( inlet air temp)
40 green/black -- fuel pump monitor.
42 black/orange -- PATS Led earth.
49 blue/red—DLC pin 14 can-.
50 grey/red—DLC pin 6 can+.
51 black/yellow -- earth.
52 black/green -- coil pin 3.
53 white/green -- Pats RX signal.
54 black/white -- fuel pump relay earth.
55 red-- KAM perm live.
56 black/blue—evap pin 2.
58 white/blue -- Vehicle speed Sensor pin 2.
59 grey – Alternator pin 1.
60 white -- HO2S 1 signal
62 white/black--Barometric sensor pin 3.
63 white/green -- Map sensor pin 2.
64 white --clutch switch N/O.
68 black/blue – engine cooling fan.
70 black/white -- injector 1 pin2.
71 green/yellow -- switched 12v.
72 blue—alternator pin 2.
75 black/white -- Intercooler pump relay earth.
76 white/violet -- Cam position sensor pin 1.
77 black/yellow -- earth.
83 green/yellow -- idle air control valve pin 2.
85 brown/white -- camshaft position sensor pin 2.
86 white/red ---- A/C High pressure switch N/O.
88 white/blue -- MAF pin 5..
89 white -- throttle position sensor pin 2.
90 yellow -- 5v Voltage Reference (5v out from ecu)
91 brown -- sensor common.
93 black/yellow -- HO2S pre cat heater control pin 2.
95 black/orange -- injector 4 pin 2.
96 black/yellow -- injector 2 pin 2.
97 green/yellow -- switched 12v.
99 black/red – boost solenoid pin 1.
100 black/blue – HO2S post cat heater control pin 2.
103 black/yellow -- earth.
Looks pretty neat!
Nice routing of pipes.
Do you have a picture of the exhaust manifold that you use.
Because I see that there is room for the LHD steering column.
My soon will love it.
Thanks for the wiring diagram.
Regards,
Carlos
quote:
Originally posted by big_wasa
Yes I have all the pin out info. I didn’t update the thread as there wasn’t much demand.
You then have five earths two switched lives and one permanent live.
I will dig one out.
But I’ve taken a new old stock standard Ford Focus manifold from a Crate engine.
I’ve chopped the head flange off. Tipped it upside down and welded back on. Then weld a turbo flange of choice.
I’ve made three or four while experimenting.
If you use a small turbo it even fits under the bonnet.
As I’ve said the lives and earths. The 60 pin info is on the blacktop silvertop thread and was shared by a chap with the user name “Shorty”
You will see more wiring on my test rig as I added obd2 and dash.
quote:
Originally posted by big_wasa
As I’ve said the lives and earths. The 60 pin info is on the blacktop silvertop thread and was shared by a chap with the user name “Shorty”
You will see more wiring on my test rig as I added obd2 and dash.
BIG_WASA
Thanks for helping me to check the 60 Pin's PCM.
I have had a problem with one PATS connector cable.
The first part of the cable at the connector it is BK/YE but after 20 cm, there was a change to GN/BK I don't know the reason but I found the
cable.
Ones was found the problem the LED did work like it should be.
I use the TEEM PCM with 60 pin's.
Sorry if I hijack your thread.
See the video that I made.
Watch-out the video is 106 Mb
VIDEO WORKING PATS
Thanks to everyone that has collaborated!