Just asking questions here, but what would happen to your clutch pedal if you installed the friction plate in backwards .

The engine might still be in the car and a friend of a friend would like to save ripping out the engine and gearbox.

I naturally would never do such a thing

ATB Dan.

I guess it would depend how symetrical it was....it it was, it probably wouldn't matter, but otherwise the splined centre hub part will be offset enough that it probably would not even assemble.

Maybe.

It will only go in one way. The spring cush drive will not sit against the flywheel. It does sit inside the cover plate.

That's strange, i've refitted, sorry a friend has refitted the engine and box and the clutch doesn't have enough travel to disengage the clutch.

ATB Dan.

When you install the clutch backwards, the springs would foul on the flywheel bolts i should think.
Either way, i would take it out and reinstall it. Tell your "Friend" he's an idiot!!

I think he's aware of that, more importantly i've sorry he's got a rolling road booked for next Friday.

ATB Dan.

The nose on the friction plate would stop it from disengaging although it would still feel like a normal pedal in most cases. Last time I saw it done was in a Bedford Beagle van, I always check now.

Ill hang my head in shame and admit I did exactly that on my dads mk2 escort a few years ago it worked but not well! best bet is remove and check they normally have flywheel side stamped on one side.
the hub bit should fit inside the cover.
Ray

A friend (honestly not me and he is a mechanic so should know better) put a zetec one on backwards and the only issue was reduced engagement for the splines and there was no "lead in" on the wrong side of the friction plate splines so it was a b*%$h to get the box to mate up.
It didn't foul the flywheel at all.

This is a bit theoretical ( like your friend) but if the clutch plate was installed backwards, bolting up the cover plate could push on the cover mating face pulling the clutch actuating fingers away from the release bearing. First press of the clutch will take up the slack but full disengagement is beyond the travel of the release bearing.
Also it is likely that the clutch cover has reached full disengagement travel but is still not free of the clutch plte

Not only should it come back out but to be 100% sure the driven plate isn't distorted it would have to be replaced.

Well my mate isn't a prat

Flywheel installed correctly, took 20mm of arm travel to disengage the clutch, my clutch pedal pulls the cable 30mm normally but has a total travel of 55mm and it still won't engage gear.

This morning has seen the engine out checked and reinstalled! the only thing we can think that's different is the ST170 crank is slightly different from the blacktop and the nose of my modified V6 gearbox is ramming into the back of the crank.

Any ideas folks
ATB Dan.