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Author: Subject: Rear Suspension Camber setting
DarrenW

posted on 17/9/07 at 08:38 AM Reply With Quote
Rear Suspension Camber setting

Reminder please - been a while since build was finished!!



For all those with a ZR (and others if the rear suspension set up is all the same). I need to change camber settings on o/s rear wheel. Ive already set n/s to approx -0.5deg. on o/s i need to wind the upper joint in a bit - does anyone know how many full turns you have to do to change it by say 1deg?



On the front height setting - how do you have yours? No surprise that after a few miles everything has settled and bedded in great so now is the time to reset heights. Im going to set lower wishbones approx level (mine are lower at chassis end at the mo) and then fine tune to get 3.5" to 4" clearance under sump? Does this sound about right?

Ultimately ill get it corner weighted but better basic set up will suffice for now.






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worX

posted on 17/9/07 at 09:14 AM Reply With Quote
Hi Darren,

I can't 100% remember so hopefully someone else can confirm but:

1. I think I wound mine in 1 full turn (360degrees) for HALF a Degree of negative camber.

2. I am running with ride height set to 100mm front and 125mm rear, that is measured from points on the chassis/body and not the sump. My blade sump only hangs down below the car about 15mm so you may be able to compare that to yours?

3. If it were me, I would go and get it set up now rather than wait. Every mile you do AFTER it's done will be a thousand times more pleasurable!
Derek (Jubal) just had his Indy done locally for around £150-160ish and that includes full set up of camber, toe in/out settings and fully corner weighted!
If you fancy a trip down to me I will happily set up your car on corner weights for you F.O.C but I know you are a million miles away so it might be just as easy for you to find somewhere locally!!!
I also made gauges to measure toe in/out and I have camber gauges so would be able to check those for you aswell!

hope this helps,
Steve

[Edited on 17/9/07 by worX]






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DarrenW

posted on 17/9/07 at 10:40 AM Reply With Quote
That does help Steve. Thanks.

A local Westie owner has a home made gauge which serves as a good comparitor to get both back wheels the same. Ill get hold of that soon.

A local garage and rally nut has the corner weight gear etc and offered to set it (inc camber and toe in) up for about £100 cash. Only downer is he has no experience of se7ens so i have to state what i want first. Shouldnt be too hard to suss though.

[Edited on 19/9/07 by DarrenW]






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DarrenW

posted on 18/9/07 at 01:37 PM Reply With Quote
Thanks again Steve. Im posting this as a reference guide in case anyone does a search in the future.
I can confirm that 1 full turn in on rear ball joints equates to approx -0.5deg camber. Now both rear wheels are about equal at -0.75deg.

Front had settled- 2 - 2.5" max sump clearance. Lifted it to 3.75" sump clearance (22 threads showing now, was 15) but associated changed in geometry and limited spring travel has made the car twitchy. Dropping this back to 19 or 20 threads resulted in a shade over 3" sump clearance
This has resulted in the chassis being more or less level front to back. Rear could possibly do with lifting 10 or 15mm at a later date (several people report slightly higher at the back to be preferential).


Front camber checked and set as required. Now approx -1deg both sides. As with rear, 1 full turn in on the upper ball joint equated to -0.5 deg adjustment as a rough rule of thumb.

All camber checks were done with home made gauge. Might not be exactly right but as a comparitor allowed all axle sets to be equal.

Next job will be to adjust front toe to -1.5deg as advised by Mac#1 and then get corner weights set up (ive been quoted £100 cash to set up all cambers, toe and corner weights using rally style scales.

Just a word of warning - check your nuts on a new build or after suspension component change (ie i stripped mine down for re-painting) as all joints will settle and need re-tightening, especially if paint is thick.

Mushroom adaptors are set with eccentric hole as far forward as poss.
[Edited on 19/9/07 by DarrenW]

[Edited on 28/9/07 by DarrenW]

[Edited on 28/9/07 by DarrenW]






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