Mergyr
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| posted on 22/4/04 at 09:56 PM |
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Gixxer Thou - Questions
Hi All,
Im new to the list and I intend building an MK Indy, I'm considering using the GSXR1000 engine, since its been the hooligan's choice of
bike for so long I guess the engines a cracker hey!
A couple of questions, firstly has anyone else used a this engine? Can you offer any advice?
Will I need to dry sump it? or will baffles and overfilling with oil help? Will too much oil cause the clutch to slip or is this more a problem with
certain types of oil?
I guess I will have to chop the sump?
I'm also assuming the adaptor flange by MK will fit between a sierra diff and GSXR gearbox?
Can I use a race-can such as a Micron? Does anyone manufacture the manifold and pipes to link to a Micron? Im guessing I couldnt SVA it with one, but
they do look the biz!
If I bought a whole bike (well almost) from a salvage place, only used the prop, steering rack, front hub etc from a donor car (well scrap yard) and
bought brakes etc all new, could I register it with the bike Reg? I'm intending using all the looms, electrics, (except hazards and speedo) from
the bike, so its pretty much a four wheel Gixxer in my eyes!
One other question does not having a reverse gear cause many problems? Are these electric reverse motors needed?
Thanks,
Steve.
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spunky
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| posted on 22/4/04 at 11:10 PM |
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Hi Steve,
There are people far better qualified than me on this forum to answer your questions, but i'll part with my limited knowledge and then stand
corrected.
I don't know of anyone using a GSXR1000 but yep its a fanastic motor, (I've ridden them) also very pricey as they haven't been
around for long.
Dry sump is always the best method (IMHO) but again, bloody expensive. Baffeling the sump is usually enough depending on what you doing with the car,
track days will still pose a risk. Overfilling isn't a good idea, may cause clutch slip, excess crank case pressure and in extreme cases piston
slap.
Chopping the sump gives you better ground clearance, something I wish I done but cant be arsed now...!
Adapter for primary drive shouldn't be a problem.
From what I gather manifolds and pipes are often built/modified as required. Fit whatever end can you like for SVA as long as it's less than
101dB. You will require a cat for SVA with a Gixer1000.
You cant transfer reg. from a bike to a car, or vice versa.
Doner parts from one vehicle with evidence will give you age related reg.
No requirement for a reverse unless you race it then you need a reverse.
Hope thats some help.
All the best
John
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jimgiblett
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| posted on 23/4/04 at 08:56 AM |
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The new gixxer 1000 is still a bit of a unknown in cars but ther are a couple of Stuart Taylor Phoenix RGB cars (one went pop two meetings ago).
Build site
here
If you are serious about this motor then I would suggest you speak to Ian Gray at Stuart Taylor Motorsport and maybe some of the sidecar guys eg
Allbikes.
I disagree regarding the drysump as it adds so much to the cost, weight and complexity. If you have a £3k busa engine then an investment in a
drysump may be justified, but for engines <£1500 then I would choose an engine that doesnt require one.
My 2p
Cheers
Jim
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timcrasher
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| posted on 23/4/04 at 09:19 AM |
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gixer 1000
Hi, Steve.
I have given my oppinion via your previous post in the MK section
Cheers
Tim
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phelpsa
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| posted on 24/4/04 at 06:09 PM |
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Does anyone know of a place that would chop/baffle my gixer 1100 sump for me?
Adam
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bike_power
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| posted on 24/4/04 at 08:17 PM |
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I think Holeshot do a variety of sump mods for bike engines in cars.
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Mergyr
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| posted on 25/4/04 at 03:36 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Mergyr
Im new to the list and I intend building an MK Indy, I'm considering using the GSXR1000 engine, since its been the hooligan's choice of
bike for so long I guess the engines a cracker hey!
Thanks All,
For your replies, it appears that using a Gixer engine maybe too costly and could well be venturing into waters reletively unknown.
To make life easier I think I'll go with the Ninja or Blade engine, unless I come across a Gixer deal to good to miss. I can always flog that
one and use the funds and knowledge I've gained to build a Gixer Thou - Indy afterwards!!! 
Thanks again,
Steve.
Steve.
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Hellfire
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| posted on 27/4/04 at 06:58 PM |
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Mergyr - has than bird on your avatar got a wooden leg? Or can't she see the upturned paving slab... tho' I'm not surprised!
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Mergyr
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| posted on 27/4/04 at 09:17 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by snoopy
having done another 3 r1 s for spain found them to be pretty good and straight forlward to build gears very nice only thing i didnt like was no temp
sender on engine had to fit a boss but things like exhausts ect all available
Hi Snoopy,
What sump modification were needed? If any for the R1 lump?
Steve.
Steve.
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Mergyr
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| posted on 27/4/04 at 09:19 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Hellfire
Mergyr - has than bird on your avatar got a wooden leg? Or can't she see the upturned paving slab... tho' I'm not surprised!
Dunno... never looked that far down.
Steve.
Steve.
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ChrisGamlin
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| posted on 28/4/04 at 11:09 AM |
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Mergyr, have a look on Rich Miles' Website , Im sure he discusses the R1 sump baffle on there.
Chris
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ChrisBradley04
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| posted on 28/4/04 at 01:05 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by snoopy
:...only thing i didnt like was no temp sender on engine had to fit a boss....
Snoopy,
Temp sender is fitted to R1 engine from 2002 onwards. Just means a bit less messing around I guess.
Interestingly, there is little difference in price now between these and the older carb model - I've seen a few 2002/2003 low milage examples at
just over 1k. I'm hoping now the 2004 model R1 is out the prices may fall further and I'll grab a spare.
Regards
Chris
www.fisherfury.com
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OX
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| posted on 28/4/04 at 05:15 PM |
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i wouldnt use the new 2004 engine just yet as theres been a few problems with them,iv heard that yamaha will be revising the build of the engine for
next year
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ChrisBradley04
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| posted on 28/4/04 at 06:05 PM |
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Yeh, I agree OX.
I've been watching the R1 forums very closely and yet to hear much good news on the 2004 model. I will definatley stick to the 2003 for the
forseeable future.
A lot of the bike boys are making warranty claims on the defects, which of course we can't do once it's in a BEC. Mind you, I would still
fancy a go in one 
Regards
Chris
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ChrisGamlin
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| posted on 28/4/04 at 08:13 PM |
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If you have the frame number / documents from the bike, and find a friendly dealer, you can still get recall stuff done on the engine under warranty.
A mate of mine got a couple of busa recall mods done on his engine after it had been taken out of the bike, just dumped the engine at the dealers in
the back of his car!
Whats the problems that are occuring with the 2004 R1 BTW?
Chris
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Mergyr
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| posted on 28/4/04 at 08:59 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by ChrisGamlin
Mergyr, have a look on Rich Miles' Website , Im sure he discusses the R1 sump baffle on there.
Thanks Chris,
Am I missing something? I was told that over-filling will cause many problems including piston slap yet on his site he says;
"All experience so far has indicated that sump modification is not necessary in a bec and that over filling is sufficient. "
http://www.striker1.plus.com/engine.html
He does later say that a sump baffle is required.
Confused,
Steve.
Steve.
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spunky
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| posted on 28/4/04 at 09:11 PM |
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Hi Steve,
I did say it may cause piston slap 'in extreme cases'. However my experience of this is in old car engines. having stripped apart a GSX600
engine today I can see it would need to be massively overfilled as the crank sits a couple of inches above the gearbox. But as I stated earlier I will
stand corrected.
May drop an extra bit in my engine though...
John
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Mergyr
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| posted on 28/4/04 at 09:18 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by spunky
May drop an extra bit in my engine though...
Cheers John,
He reccommend about 200ml extra on that site.
Thanks for your comments, thought I was insane with the conflicting info
Steve.
Steve.
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spunky
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| posted on 28/4/04 at 09:35 PM |
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Steve, I've not been a member of this forum for very long but I have been staggered by the amount of collective knowledge there is on here.
Thankfully conflicting information is rare, as you rightly say, it just confuses. I avoid posting unless I have direct experience of the topic.
There are frequent differing opinions/analysis though, which I find very useful to follow the threads and learn from them.
Had I found this Forum 18 months ago I would be driving now...
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ChrisGamlin
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| posted on 29/4/04 at 08:43 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Mergyr
Thanks Chris,
Am I missing something? I was told that over-filling will cause many problems including piston slap yet on his site he says;
"All experience so far has indicated that sump modification is not necessary in a bec and that over filling is sufficient. "
http://www.striker1.plus.com/engine.html
He does later say that a sump baffle is required.
Confused,
Steve.
I think what he means by that is that you don't need to actually modify the sump itself (put in baffles around the pickup etc). The
"baffle" plate is just a sheet of ally that bolts between the sump and the crankcase, more correctly called a windage plate.
The overfilling was recommended to Rich by the French Yamaha racing team I do believe, plus lots of sidecar people who run R1s on track. The only
thing that overfilling usually causes in a BEC is clutch slip if the bottom of the clutch sits in a bath of oil, but on the R1 the clutch is very high
in the casing so you'd have to seriously overfill to get it to levels where it would affect it.
Chris
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spunky
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| posted on 29/4/04 at 09:19 AM |
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am I wrong...
Following on with this thread.
In bed this morning I was thinking about sumps  .
Bikes accelerate and brake very hard, also we've all seen the stunt guys and high street heros wheelying the bikes for 200 yards at full chat or
rolling it on its nose for 30 yards. These are standard bikes and don't appear to suffer from oil starvation....
Stick with me....
Now with a BEC the engine is usually turned 90 degrees. So is it correct to assume that the forces during cornering in the car are now the same as the
forces during acceleration/braking when the engine was in the bike?
If this is the case then a simple baffle or windage plate to hold oil around the pickup during acceleration/braking should protect the engine.
Am I missing something or oversimplifying
it.....
John
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ChrisGamlin
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| posted on 29/4/04 at 01:36 PM |
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Its cornering forces in a BEC that give you the oil starvation most of the time, so I can only assume that the forces a BEC generates in corners are
higher than a bike can generate when accelerating / decelerating cos otherwise the engines would go pop in the bike when accelerating too.
The baffle / windage plate obviously helps it in all 4 directions, but its only when people start putting sticky tyres and going on track that the
problems occur usually, so from that you've got to assume that its cornering forces that cause the problems, not accelerating or braking.
cheers
Chris
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Mergyr
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| posted on 29/4/04 at 09:00 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by spunky
Steve, I've not been a member of this forum for very long but I have been staggered by the amount of collective knowledge there is on here.
Hi Spunky,
I spent a week or so lurking in the archives before signing up and posting and found lots of earlier posts most beneficial. Please dont take my
confusion as a knock at you, I appreciate the comments made by all.
Steve.
Steve.
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