DanG
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| posted on 28/7/12 at 08:34 PM |
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2006 Hayabusa help desperately needed
I am in desperate need of some help getting my 2006 Hayabusa engine running.
I have a 2006 Hayabusa with Power Commander V. It also has the SBD dry sump kit.
As of yesterday, upon first start up from cold you turn the key and hear the fuel pump kick in and see the lights on the power commander for startup
and power light up. The engine would start perfectly and run perfectly for 15 - 20 seconds ish and instantly cut out. At this point there is no
power light on the power commander.
During the 15 - 20 seconds the engine sounds as it should and oil pressure and temp look OK.
Turn the key off and then back on and no fuel pump will sound and still no lights on the power commander. Press the starter button and the car cranks
over but will not start.
As of today it seems the problem is worse. Turn the key at any time and get no fuel pump sound and no lights on the power commander. The engine will
still crank when you press the starter button.
I am desperate for help as I am certainly no mechanic and I am struggling to find someone who is local enough to Glossop (near Manchester), who is
available, and willing to come and fix my car for some pennies.
I am desperately keen to get out driving my car but find myself not knowing where or who else to turn to get some help.
I was hoping I could find the help I need from someone on this forum.
If anyone could help let me know - post on the forum or send me a message - cheers.
It would be great to find someone who could come and get my car running - you would be a friend for life.
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T66
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| posted on 28/7/12 at 08:44 PM |
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The PC wiring on my Blackbird is crappy soldered joints to splice it into the Blackbird loom. It sounds like the the PC might have a broken/dodgy
connection or two.
Check the PC loom where its spliced into the Suzuki one, check each wire back to the PC for damage
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DanG
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| posted on 28/7/12 at 09:04 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by T66
The PC wiring on my Blackbird is crappy soldered joints to splice it into the Blackbird loom. It sounds like the the PC might have a broken/dodgy
connection or two.
Check the PC loom where its spliced into the Suzuki one, check each wire back to the PC for damage
I did think loose wiring seems most likely but I really know very little and would not feel confident checking any wiring.
Hoping I can find someone local enough to call round and help. Food, drink and pennies happily provided to get my car on the road.
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Jon Ison
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| posted on 28/7/12 at 09:16 PM |
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Both the fuel pump and power commander should get a live feed once the ignition is turned on, you need to find out why not.
My commander just plugs into the bike loom, does yours ? The fact the fuel pump is not running sounds like you need to start at the ignition switch
and work your way through till you find it.
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DanG
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| posted on 28/7/12 at 09:22 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Jon Ison
Both the fuel pump and power commander should get a live feed once the ignition is turned on, you need to find out why not.
My commander just plugs into the bike loom, does yours ? The fact the fuel pump is not running sounds like you need to start at the ignition switch
and work your way through till you find it.
Thanks for the help.
Is anyone near enough to Glossop to help?
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Jon Ison
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| posted on 28/7/12 at 09:28 PM |
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If your PC plugs into the bike loom which it most likely does it gets it's live feed from your ecu (the pump probably does to) you need to trace
the feed to your ecu and make sure its ok, don't know what colour wire it is on yours as mine is a 2001 engine.
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Jon Ison
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| posted on 28/7/12 at 11:22 PM |
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Just checked my wiring diagram, the (live) feed for the PC on mine is taken from the ecu via a orange/White wire (larger of the 2 ecu plugs) this also
feeds the four coils, and if wired up as per busa loom the fuel pump relay, I wired my fuel pump differently but it all ties in with your problem ?
Does your PC plug into your engine loom just under the throttle bodies ?
You have a live feed to your ecu problem or this wire is broken.
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Kev99
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| posted on 29/7/12 at 08:06 AM |
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easiest way to test this is just unplug the power commander and try to start the engine if it fires there the problem and u know the area u need to
look at
Kev.......
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DanG
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| posted on 29/7/12 at 10:24 AM |
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I can trace the covered PC wires to the throttle body.
I will need to figure out how to get the original air box off to take a proper look.
I would plea again for anyone in my area to help
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Jon Ison
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| posted on 29/7/12 at 07:35 PM |
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I can't possibly get over, would love to but just don't have time I'm afraid.
Form what you describe I would happily bet money that you have lost the live feed to your ecu, I don't think it's anything to do with your
PC at all.
The PC simply plugs into the bike loom to fit one you unplug the main engine loom under the throttle bodys then just plg the PC in to re complete the
circuits ig that makes sense.
The PC should be earthed there will be a single wire sticking out of the PC loom with an "eye" on it to earth it, recommended it goes to
battery negative but i have seen plenty that are not, mine included mine gets it's earth from the engine block. The PC gets it's positive
supply by plugging it into the engine loom as above, the pin it takes it from is the same one that gives the four coils positive feed and also throws
the fuel pump relay. Your problem, no power to PC or fuel pump and I guarantee no spark either, this is your problem 99% for sure, no live feed form
your ecu but actually no power to it so it can't give an output.
I don't have a 2006 wiring diagram only 99>04 some of the wiring changed during the years I have but the power out is the same on them all, I
just dare not tell you which wire to put a live feed to to test it just in case its changed, I don't want to Be responsible for fryIng you ecu
or PC.
You need a 2006 diagram, you need to identify which is the live feed to your ecu, you can test it with a bulb, no power, you have found the problem,
power you need to identify which pin out feeds all four coils, test it no power suspect ecu. Power, then it will be broken somewhere between the ecu
and the multi plug under the throttle body's, it can't be anything else IMO and I strongly suspect you have no feed to the ecu and that is
your problem. You have checked fuses ?
If it was just your PC with no power then it would as suggested be easy, just unplug out of the engine loom, trouble is you have no fuel pump either
so it discounts the PC at the moment as been at fault.
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DanG
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| posted on 30/7/12 at 04:42 PM |
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Thank you all for your help.
I am starting from the basics and checking/changing all the fuses in the fuse box.
Then I will find where the PC joins the loom at the injectors and see if I can see anything obvious.
My real problem is a complete lack of any decent knowledge to give me any confidence in getting this fixed.
Whilst I am trying in the evenings this week it would be great if anyone local could get in touch.
In the meantime, if I do fix this you will probably all hear my shouts of joy!
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RickRick
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| posted on 30/7/12 at 05:13 PM |
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what does it have in the way of an immobalizer/alarm?
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DanG
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| posted on 31/7/12 at 08:55 PM |
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Looks like a dodgy connection where the PC joins into the main loom with the injector connectors.
I will figure out getting the bike airbox off and have a closer look.
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BaileyPerformance
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| posted on 3/8/12 at 09:30 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by DanG
Looks like a dodgy connection where the PC joins into the main loom with the injector connectors.
I will figure out getting the bike airbox off and have a closer look.
You should be able to remove the power commander and run the engine stock? Just to prove all is ok??
PC are ok but as far as im aware you can only map the fuelling and not the timing?? This makes them not idea. Take it all off and fit megasquirt 2,
simple job as your engine uses a 24-1 wheel as standard.
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NOTE:This user is registered as a LocostBuilders trader and may offer commercial services to other users
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Jon Ison
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| posted on 7/8/12 at 03:14 PM |
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Did you get to the bottom of this ?
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DanG
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| posted on 7/8/12 at 03:46 PM |
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It looks like that the tip over sensor was fitted incorrectly.
Not had chance to give the car a proper run to find out as on my maiden journey I found out I have a gear selection problem to get to the bottom of
now.
The joys of kit cars!!
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Jon Ison
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| posted on 7/8/12 at 04:41 PM |
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WhIch would cut the live feed to the ECU, how is the tip over sensor fitted ? Most poplar trick is to fill it with silicon or remove it at fit the
appropriate resistor ?
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DanG
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| posted on 8/8/12 at 07:28 AM |
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The tip over sensor had the word "upper" facing the up to the sky so the U-shaped channel for the metal ring to travel on was on a
horizontal plane so there was no natural gravity of the u-shape to put the metal ring back to the centre.
Simply put the tip over sensor in a position where "upper" could be read as if on a car number plate and started first time and it
runs.
Never cut out since.
But like I say, need to sort the clutch pedal travel/master cylinder now.
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Jon Ison
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| posted on 8/8/12 at 08:20 AM |
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Most people fill that with silicon to hold it in the middle, you can mount it any way you want then.
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DanG
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| posted on 8/8/12 at 09:25 AM |
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Are there any downsides at all for filling the tip over sensor with silicon?
Is it as easy as it sounds? Or could you by accident fix the o ring in the wrong place?
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roadrunner
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| posted on 8/8/12 at 11:51 AM |
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It's as easy as it sounds. Then you can fix the sensor in its original place.
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adithorp
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| posted on 8/8/12 at 03:48 PM |
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Your pedal stop is made. Pity the fool who welded it forgot how hot it'd be after and picked it up. i've got threads on my finger and
thumb now!
It might be Sat evening before I get chance to come and fit it.
"A witty saying proves nothing" Voltaire
http://jpsc.org.uk/forum/
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