WARNING I WILL NOT BE HELD RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY LOSSES OR INJURY RESULTING FROM USE OF THE INFORMATION CONTAINED WITHIN THIS POST.
As this is Locost builders there are some people left that love to tinker and make things.
This is to give those people that are interested in running a ford efi engine on a budget a little more info on how the Immobilizer can be used out of
the donor car.
The key to using the Ecu is the Pat's immobilizer. You must get at least one key with chip that is matched to the ecu.
You can not bypass it but you can use it.
I've recently did a 1.6 Zetec Se loom for a mate putting it in a Mojo. So I thought I would share .........
This one is a 60 pin with pre and post cat O2 sensor and knock control.
Ford Fiesta 1.6 Sport Zetec SE Ecu code CHCA
60Pin ecu
1)—Orange—12v perm live for ecu Memory.
2)—Black—Knock sensor.
3)—White/blue—Vss speed sensor plug pin 2.
4)--White/black—Tacho output.
5)--White/green—Immobilizer aerial (Pats).
6)—Black/blue—Ac high pressure switch.
7)—Black—Engine coolant temperature sensor (Ect).
8)—Purple/black—Fuel pump monitor.
9)—Brown/blue—Mass air flow meter (Maf).
10)—Purple/blue—Ac.
11)—Black/orange—Canister purge valve.
12)—Black—Injector 1.
13)—Black/blue—Engine fan relay.
14)—Black—Injector 4.
15)—Black—Injector 2.
16)—Black/yellow—Chassis earth.
17)—White—Data link connector (Dlc) pin 13.
18)—Blue/white—Data link connector (Dlc) pin 10.
19)—Grey/purple—Data link connector (Dlc) pin 2.
20)—Black—Chassis earth separate from pins 16+40+60.
21)—Black—Idle control valve.
22)--.
23)—Black—Knock sensor.
24)—Black—Cam position sensor pin1.
25)—White/purple—Air temperature sensor (Act).
26)—Black—Throttle position sensor (Tps) 5v (yellow).
27)--
28)—Black/yellow—Power steering pressure.
29)--
30)—Black—Cam position sensor pin2.
31)—Black/white—Hi speed fan relay.
32)—Black/blue—Starter motor inhibit relay.
33)—Black/Yellow—Pre cat O2 sensor.
34)—Black—Injector 3.
35)—White—Instrument cluster.
36)—White/red—Data link connector pin7.
37)—Purple/yellow—Switched 12v.
38)—Grey/orange—Immobilizer aerial (Pats).
39)—Black/orange—Immobilizer status Led.
40)—Black/yellow—Chassis earth.
41)--
42)--
43)—Brown/white—Clutch pedal position switch.
44)—White—Pre cat O2 sensor.
45)—Black—Alternator.
46)—Brown/red—Sensor common.
47)—Black__Throttle position sensor.
48)—White/red—Post cat O2 sensor.
49)--
50)—White/Blue—Mass air flow meter.
51)—Black/blue—Post cat O2 sensor.
52)—Black/blue—Instrument cluster Mil.
53)—Black/blue—Fuel pump relay switched earth.
54)—Black/yellow—Ac.
55)—Black—Crank position sensor (Cps) pin 2.
56)—Black—Crank position sensor (Cps) pin 1.
57)—Purple/yellow—switched 12v.
58)—Black/orange—Coil pin 1.
59)—Black/green—Coil pin 3.
60)—Black/yellow—Chassis earth.
Power distribution for the ecu.
The pats Immobilizer
The Transceiver / aerial.
The plug
How its wired, plus the status led often found in the clock. This tells you if the Immobilizer is armed or not and will give blink codes.
The fuel Injectors
To be continued if there is any interest ?????????????????????
ps are the individual circuit diagrams better than just the pin outs and plugs. ????????????????????
Photo Archive
Building: A new workshop and an old Series 2/3 Land Rover
posted on 15/7/15 at 09:58 PM
Your timing is impeccable! Here's how I left mine this morning: Mojo wiring
This is a MK1 Focus 1.6 SE (post cat sensor and knock sensor) being grafted on to a Fiesta/Puma hybrid loom already in my Mojo, and my next job was to
start sorting out which wires I needed to keep and which ones could be removed (PAS, AC etc). I shall keep a very close eye on this thread!
I'm just trying to save a few quid as those external rad fan switches with the fancy alloy housing are expensive. I noticed the two fan
connections and was just assuming that there would be two fan switches, coming on at different temperatures and controlling two fans.
Resistors though? Seems a bit odd - unless there is actually only one fan with two different speeds. That must be it I think.
Glad i found this post...
I bought two Zetec 1.8 engines with the full ecu's for a cost to me of about £200.
one from a 1999 mondeo (T reg) has a 104 pin ecu and one from a 2001 Focus (51 reg) which has a 60 pin ecu.....this engine only has one coolant sebsor
behind the alternator, the mondeo has two on the thermostat housing.
it appears the Focus has a Pats system fitted and i have the ign key, but do i need it? is it integrated into the ecu like the 104 pin ecu's?
sometimes you are the pigeon, most of the time the statue.
Don't suppose you could post a link for please?
I know of your posts on the 104 pin ecu....and that will be in my other car .but the 60 pin ecu is a problem.
[Edited on 2/4/16 by snowy2]
sometimes you are the pigeon, most of the time the statue.
Off at a tangent, i have a spare 2.0L pinto carb and Xflow manifold as well as several complete EDIS systems removed from various Fiesta's/
Fords.....i am tempted to fit this to one of my cars and fit the full injection set up to my other car, might be interesting to compare the two side
by side.
but i think the edis systems need a megajolt mappable ecu to time the sparks, is that also true if the edis system also has the map sensor with it?
sometimes you are the pigeon, most of the time the statue.
If the Edis has a built in map sensor and it has a red top and says Esc then it is a little differant to an Edis4 and has a controller built in, but
very basic. It will run a basic zetec on a single carb if your not after any real performance or economy. It's an 8v map.
An edis4 requires a controller like a megajolt or it just gives a flat 10 deg
Hi Big_wasa. Apologies to be picking this up again after so long. This is incredibly useful post and has convinced me that I might be able to pull it
off ha ha. I have a crossflow currently in my locost for autotesting and am considering converting over to 1.6 zetec SE from a 00 focus. I have the
complete donor car and looking to just remove the part of the loom that will run the engine only(Light as possible for autotesting of course.
Currently experimenting with plugging out parts of the loom to see what will stop the car from running of which was a lot, until i turned the car off
and tried to start again). My question is does the PATS system read any codes other than the chip in the key? Based on the diagram below, the clocks
for instance could just be bypassed with an LED to complete the circuit back to the transiver/ariel? Mark
Is it possible to run the Puma 1.7 ECU to only control the ignition and the VCT, if so what sensors will I need to attach - will it run on ignition
without lambda or will this kick in limp home mode (can add one in if necessary) - as a guess I am thinking -
ECU, Key, Transponder/pickup from lock barrel - have all of these from a single car - ECU is an EEC-V DIVE version.
Air temp, water temp - Puma parts - are these needed for ignition - warm up mode ?
Plug in cam and crank sensors to engine (does it need the cam sensor if not using sequential injection ?)
Plug in coil pack
TPS from throttle body (which will be connected to a pair of DHLA40's)
VCT activator - what pins does this go to (via a relay, switched earth ?)
Power, earth and LED as above
Any thing else ? Can I get it to run the fuel pump ?
Anyone kind enough to sketch out a wiring diagram for this - of if I have a go at sketching it out sketch it out can someone put the pin outs on it
and check over ?
Just thought I'd explore this before going down the 3rd party route (probably Canems running the Jenko off/on/off VCT method).
Thanks in advance.
[Edited on 29/1/18 by Ugg10]
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1968 Ford Anglia 105e, 1.7 Zetec SE, Mk2 Escort Workd Cup front end, 5 link rear
Build Blog - http://Anglia1968.weebly.com
