liamb
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| posted on 5/3/08 at 10:12 AM |
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DD2 Fuel Sender Fitting Help
Hi,
I was looking at fitting the fuel sender supplied with the Digidash2 Lite last night and I think I am being really thick but I can not work out how
you are supposed to mount it.
I get that you need to cut the hole, fit the rubber gasket and use M5 bolts but how are you supposed to put on the nuts when you can only get to the
outside.
Any help or pictures would be great. Also, do you know whether I will need to shorten the float arm? I have the MAC1 plastic fuel tank and Colin said
it does have baffles inside.
On an unrelated note, does anyone know whether the Odyssey PC545 Racing Battery is suitable as there are a few going cheap on ebay?
Cheers
Liam
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bigrich
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| posted on 5/3/08 at 10:25 AM |
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Liam.
either drill and tap threads or use a smaller drill and use self tapping type screws
as for the sender most just bend the arm in a series of V's so it looks like a mountain range you just have to gauge the travel so it just
rests just short of the bottom of the tank IE so it shows empty just before it is so you should'nt run out of fuel.
and adjust it so it reaches its fullest travel without touching the top of the tank so it reads full
I have seen them shortened using a pair of screw down electrical connector blocks
the battery should be well up to the job of a BEC
Rich
.JPG)
A pint for the gent and a white wine/fruit based drink for the lady. Those are the rules
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nitram38
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| posted on 5/3/08 at 11:01 AM |
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I personally don't like piercing the tank unnessarily, even though it is in the top.
My preference would be to get a ring made up that has threads for the bolts and then weld this to the outside of the tank.
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liamb
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| posted on 5/3/08 at 11:15 AM |
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Cheers Rich,
Will the plastic be strong enough to tap a thread in to (or more likely use self tappers as dont had tap kit).
I was wondering whether I could use M5 aliminium rivnuts?
Welding would be best option if I had a welder (and could use one) and more importantly if the tank was not plastic.
As ever, cheers for the advice.
Liam
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bigrich
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| posted on 5/3/08 at 11:52 AM |
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the plastic is double thickness where the sender fits so will take a thread or self tapper no problem especially as the tightening torque isnt that
much
i would'nt rivnut it just keep the holes to a minimum /small size
Dont forget to add an earth conection to one of the screws so the gauge will function(earth the sender)as the plastic tank is an insulator
A pint for the gent and a white wine/fruit based drink for the lady. Those are the rules
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liamb
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| posted on 5/3/08 at 12:03 PM |
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Cheers Rick.
Sounds stupid but is the send mounted on the square block?
Liam
[Edited on 5/3/08 by liamb]
[Edited on 5/3/08 by liamb]
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DarrenW
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| posted on 5/3/08 at 03:28 PM |
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Yes, i fitted mine in this part. I used a hold cutter, slow speed with drill and vacuum cleaner to suck up swarfe. Some still dropped in and found it
way to the fuel filter so prepare to replace that after a 1000 miles or so.
As far as setting the sender up - im last one to advise. I bolloxed mine up. Empty mark is fine but when tank is brimmed it only reads 75%. I tried
making a card template of the tank in section and laid the sender onto that. I obviously didnt allow the float to reach FSD at the top point. Its a
tweeking kob ive never got round to, i only take notice of gauge when i need fuel.
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K999NNY
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| posted on 5/3/08 at 05:07 PM |
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Self tappers. Thats what I used.
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liamb
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| posted on 5/3/08 at 08:30 PM |
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cheers,
I will give it a bash.
Liam
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