Robin_hood
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| posted on 6/4/08 at 07:17 PM |
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I need more Bhp for my pinto
Just bought a robin hood 2b with a 2ltr fuel injection sierra pinto engine. From what i understand it only puts out about 102Bhp, and as always a few
more horses would go down a treat.
I have done a little research and am looking to buy a set of weber 45's dcoe to give me that extra little kick i'm after on 0 - 60 time.
Could anyone let me know if this is a reasonable road to go down and if its a fairly straight forward task to install them.
Any help on this matter would be great.
New to Mods.
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Paul TigerB6
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| posted on 6/4/08 at 07:22 PM |
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Is this a SOHC "Pinto" (with 205 cast on the side of the engine) or the later DOHC engine??
Either way i'd rather fit a set of bike carbs than Webers myself on a suitable manifold and run this via a megajolt ECU
PS welcome to the loony bin
[Edited on 6/4/08 by Paul TigerB6]
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robertst
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| posted on 6/4/08 at 07:59 PM |
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yep... bike carbs, ecu, good 4 into 1 exhaust, and a kent FR32 camshaft should put you near... 130?? maybe more? and it'll all cost just a tad
more than the webers...
Tom
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jacko
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| posted on 6/4/08 at 07:59 PM |
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Bike carbs gets my vote 
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ch1ll1
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| posted on 6/4/08 at 08:08 PM |
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have you thought about a bike engine
paul
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Pdlewis
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| posted on 6/4/08 at 08:48 PM |
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Yet again bike carbs, Without a huge diet bike engine wouldnt be an option
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matt.c
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| posted on 6/4/08 at 09:12 PM |
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Ask FLAK MONKEY about his pinto as thats got some serious grunt! 
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DarrenW
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| posted on 6/4/08 at 10:26 PM |
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102 at flywheel - yeah - more to be had soon. Mine is basic set up. bike carbs on good manifold. Good exhaust. Lightened flywheel. FR32 cam (slated by
many as too mild). Reworked head but mildly diy ported and guides re-done, 40thou skim. Boggs recorded 120bhp at wheels and that was on 2d Megajolt
map rather than optimised 3D.
More to be had with well built 2.0 litre. Mooky can povide more details.
Its possible to smile on a budget.
<
[Edited on 6/4/08 by DarrenW]
[Edited on 6/4/08 by DarrenW]
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mookaloid
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| posted on 6/4/08 at 10:29 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by ch1ll1
have you thought about a bike engine
paul
A RH might be a tad heavy for a bike engine 
If you do want to go for webers you would be better off with 40's unless you want to go for a modified head.
other wise go with what Robertst said.
cheers
Mark
"That thing you're thinking - it wont be that."
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caber
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| posted on 6/4/08 at 10:53 PM |
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I might just have a pair of webber 40s and a manifold for sale, if you are interested u2u me!
Caber
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snapper
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| posted on 7/4/08 at 11:09 AM |
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The SOHC 2.0L injection head has a better shortside inlet port turn and that is good for 5 to 10 BHP over the standard.
I have 128bhp on a 285 cam and bike carbs. even with the lumpier cams you need some serious head work maximise the potential.
Bigger inlet valves, 3 angle valve seats, widen the valve seats into the ports.
With the lumpier cams the bhp moves up the rev range and gets close to the limits of the rods and the piston ring lands.
In reality 150 honest bhp is close to the limit then it costs big money to get all the elements to work together.
I will have spent around £1200 by the time i get to 150bhp and i would think that the next option is a Zetec to 170bhp or a Duratec if i can find one
at the right price.
I know of 1 Robin Hood 2b with a well sorted bike engine and it made a massive difference, while bhp was between 130 and 150 the weight dropped to
around 560Kg
I eat to survive
I drink to forget
I breath to pi55 my ex wife off (and now my ex partner)
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roadboy
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| posted on 7/4/08 at 02:18 PM |
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Is it really worth spending a fortune on an old Pinto when you can get a nice reliable Zetec with minor mods giving 150 bhp which will mate straight
to your gearbox.
Regds
Ian
Jude Performance Services
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DarrenW
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| posted on 7/4/08 at 02:46 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by roadboy
Is it really worth spending a fortune on an old Pinto when you can get a nice reliable Zetec with minor mods giving 150 bhp which will mate straight
to your gearbox.
Regds
Ian
No its not. If i built again i wouldnt use the Pinto - probs go for 16V, if on tight budget either Zetec or XE.
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Andy D
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| posted on 7/4/08 at 03:20 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by DarrenW
quote:
Originally posted by roadboy
Is it really worth spending a fortune on an old Pinto when you can get a nice reliable Zetec with minor mods giving 150 bhp which will mate straight
to your gearbox.
Regds
Ian
No its not. If i built again i wouldnt use the Pinto - probs go for 16V, if on tight budget either Zetec or XE.
Agree with Darren here, any new budget build would have to be a zetec...... but you would miss out on the satisfaction of blowing away supercars with
an "old Cortina engine"
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Robin_hood
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| posted on 7/4/08 at 07:14 PM |
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better start looking into bike carbs!
Cheers for all the comments, will start browsing the net and asking questions related to bike carbs. This is my first car so do want to modify it to
much where it could start costing me a lot of money in fixing it every 5mins. i bought it ready built, the reason so is that i can have a bit of fun
over the summer. Planing to build an MK from scratch over the winter with a bike engine, i feel its the only way to really enjoy the car and join the
madness.
Cheers
Mod virgin.
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DarrenW
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| posted on 8/4/08 at 10:01 AM |
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Ive really enjoyed modding mine. I reckon 120bhp at back wheels from a fairly tame engine is good going. Ive managed that with decent exhaust, diy
ported head, FR32 cam chucked in, ZZR1100 bike carbs and megajolt.
Dont do the megajolt if current ignition works and you will be building another car.
Do the bike carbs if you are starting with a std carb. DIY maniifolds make the conversion cheap if you have skills. I opted for Boggs and pleased i
did, but there are some good diy conversions completed too. Factor in rolling road when its all fitted - my car was running a whole load better from
the off but once on the rollers was way to weak. After setting up it was another lump better.
I cant decide if chasing bhp figures is a good thing or not. It can get addictive and expensive finding what set of rollers gives you highest figure.
Im really hapy with the way my car drives now. The biggest difference being that bit extra pull for overtaking etc. Off the line this time of year
just gives wheel spin 
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flak monkey
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| posted on 8/4/08 at 11:41 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by matt.c
Ask FLAK MONKEY about his pinto as thats got some serious grunt!
My pinto is fairly rapid. Well quick enough for me, and the torque is lovely. Not had it on a rolling road, but I know the GTS is about 5 seconds
0-60mph.
Spec:
Rebuilt bottom end (205 block), totally standard, static balanced at home with a set of good digital scales. Lightened std flywheel.
FR33 cam kit fitted
Vernier pulley, timed in with dial indicator etc.
Standard valves
Ports and valve throats opened out in line with Des Hamills recommendations in 'How to Power Tune Ford SOHC engines'
Twin Weber 45 DCOEs
MK exhaust system.
H&H ignition solutions fast road/rally spec distributor.
Excluding the exhaust you are looking at a total investment of about £600 on the engine, including all the new bearings and rings etc. I bought the
original for £30 including the flywheel.
Show me another engine you can buy/build for that money that will give you the same amount of power/torque. Bike engines lack the torque for
driveability and cost considerably more to fit. A zetec would cost you about the same to fit, before you carry out any mods.
David
Sera
http://www.motosera.com
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jacko
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| posted on 8/4/08 at 06:31 PM |
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Hi if you make a inlet manifold for bike carbs have a look in my photo archives it may help you ook under zx9r /manifold
Jacko
ps my engine had 140 bhp at the rear wheels on bogg brothers rolling road
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Robin_hood
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| posted on 8/4/08 at 09:52 PM |
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loads of options
Its like being in an advanced French class trying to understand all this, but like anything i shall keep going.
Can you tell i'm new to this....ha
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liam.mccaffrey
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| posted on 9/4/08 at 12:21 AM |
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don't worry about a thing, if you go back and search the first 50 post of all the most experienced and knowledgeable people on here most are
similar type questions.
Its just the learning curve, everyone has gone through (and still going through) the same thing
good to have you on board
Liam Mc
[Edited on 9/4/08 by liam.mccaffrey]
Build Blog
Build Photo Album
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DarrenW
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| posted on 9/4/08 at 08:14 AM |
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Advanced fench class - LOL!
My initiation into tuning was like sitting in on a forensic science seminar in dutch.
Lets break it doen into manageable chunks.
Bike carbs are simple. You need a set of carbs, something from a 900cc or 1000cc bike will do. I bucked the trend by using ZZR1100 - not many were
using them when i was researching but they are becoming popular due to price. They are older but jst proves bike carbs are usually in great shape as
they do so few miles generally.
You need a manifold so you can bolt them to engine. Steel is fine. Ali is fine too. Key point is make the runners nice and smooth internally - outside
can be as rough as badgers as long as they are strong.
Next you need some rubber tube to connect the 2 - i dont like silicon for this. Used top quality rubber rad hose.
Fuel pump - pump from same or similar bike as the carbs is best. Some use pinto mechanical too. Id suggest electric.
After that a cable s fashionable - got mine as a kit from Mac#1.
Choke cable - i havent bothered. On first fire up i whip bonnet off and push the enrichment lever over - once warm its fine.
Air filter - loads of choices. Pipercross sausage filter seems to be most popular. I used K&N challenger cos i got one cheap. Jacko made air
box.
Before fitting it all together clean the carbs out. There's not much to them. do one at a time, take note of what you take off from where and a
tin of carb cleaner should see them done internally. Externally i just used a bucket of petrol or diesel and a suds brush then blew them off to
dry.
Depending on the carbs you may have an air bleed hole to block and jets to drill but again this least of your worries. Plenty of advice on here when
you get to that point.
My carbs had water heater pipework - i just removed it all. Dont need under bonnet of car that has 4 heater pipes from other side of head
(exhaust).
In all honesty i was concerned that all this efort would leave me with a non running car - but they fired straight up and i was well chuffed with
result. Your brain says it shouldnt work but it does - and very well too.
Keep asking and searching. loads of help here.
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DarrenW
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| posted on 9/4/08 at 08:16 AM |
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Just thinking - if you have cash and are really not sure then no shame in getting boggs to do it all - but if you want the challenge then this si a
good one with plenty of content and i dare say you cant fail if you follow simple advice.
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Robin_hood
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| posted on 9/4/08 at 12:46 PM |
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See it all starts to come clear if you have the french dictionary in front of you.
Thanks for that, the explanation now has pride of place on my pin board
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DarrenW
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| posted on 9/4/08 at 03:54 PM |
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Oh heck - i hope it was right
Best advice is to just get on with it really. You will soon wonder what the fuss was about. It seems like a big step at first but its a really
straight forward power mod.
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aerosam
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| posted on 10/4/08 at 06:36 AM |
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Then again, if you want to stick with the ford efi system, a stage 1 head with a Kent FR sports injection cam (there is a specific one for injection),
an uprated fuel pressure regulator, and a 4 branch tubular exhaust manifold, although you probably already have one should see 140bhp from it. I did
all of this for about 600 quid on my capri and it rolling roaded 141bhp at the flywheel.
It's 115bhp standard BTW not 102 (that's the figure for a weber DGAS carb version).
[Edited on 10/4/08 by aerosam]
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