I've been trying to tidy up the wiring on the R1 loom in the Indy and decided to run the engine to make sure everything is ok before I move to the next job.

I've noticed my oil light on the R1 clocks now stays on with the engine running.
There's oil in the engine (recently added baffles and gave it a service).

Question is : is the oil light on the R1 dash (it's a 2003 5PW) an oil level or oil pressure?

Does anyone know how I can test the sender? - I'm looking for a similar way to the neutral switch.

I'm hoping the sender is either earthing out (or not) which is causing the light to stay on.

Any ideas where to go next?

I'm hoping it's not me buggering about with the loom which has caused this to break!

Any help much appreciated.

Only bit I can help with is it's an oil level light, not oil pressure.

Can you fit a gauge to where the sender unit is fitted, this way you can rule out engine.

Not much help - but I've noticed the same thing happening on my R1. Coincidentally I'm also in the middle of the build & tidyying up the electrics - spooky!. I'm not too worried though & haven't done any investigative work yet but I can see there's plenty of oil in the engine & wondering whether it's the baffle holding the oil back from draining into the sump & causing the level switch to register low oil. I know a lot of people over fill their engines without issues so I'd try that next & see if the light goes out.

Thanks everyone

Boger - the baffle plate idea does make sense - ill fill it up with oil to see what happens, I'm guessing the oil level is from the window in the sump because I don't have a dip stick (only me). The only problem with that is the engine is not at the same degree as when it's in the bike so I don't know how much is in it?? Thoughts or just fill it up!

Also, does anyone know if its possible to be able to test the sender with a volt meter? If so, is it just a resister based on the amount of oil in the sump, and when it gets low it trips the dashboard light?

Reading thru the Haynes manual, it sounds like the sensor is just a float switch in a tube. To test - remove from sump & check with continuity tester: Hold with wiring at bottom - continuity, turn upside down - no continuity (from the manual).

Also from fluke motorsport website howto guides:

"Do not worry about overfilling the engine, it will not cause damage - excess oil is simply blown out of the breather. Some race teams overfill by as much as 500ml, although 250ml is more common. This is usually accomplished by filling oil to the top of the sight glass and then overfilling by the desired amount."

Top man, thank you - that's a job for this weekend (though I'm going to overfill it first)

It's just an oil level light. They're known to come on regularly (check out the R1 bike forums). Don't panic with it; I've driven across Europe with it on most of the way and done loads of trackdays with it coming on.

The generally excepted oil level in an injected R1 BEC (with the engine tilted) is... engine hot and running, level 1/2 to 2/3 up the glass. It may still come on even then nder some circumstances.

As well as it coming on because the level drops as the revs rise (especialy when cold) The oil returning to the sump can be a bit airated or even frothy (especialy if too full) and the level float sinks lower in the froth. Hold revs on while watching the sight glass and you can see the froth forming.
I've found some oils are worse than others and it occurs more the older the oil gets. I've found Silkolene Comp4 is the best.

It's a good idea to fit an presure gauge, either by drilling the bolt in the oil cooler or by putting an adapter instead of the plug in one end of the main oil gallery (were Yamaha test the presure if you look in the manual). If you do fit one , don't be suprised to see pressure as low as 5psi at idle when hot.