had trouble bleeding my clutch master / slave on my BMW 2.5 straight 6 - this was mainly through my inexperience.

Eventually got circuit bled but pedal not feeling clutch-like. Read the BMW haynes manual and internet and it was suggested the slave cylinder can just be unbolted and removed (being careful not to pop rod out of cylinder). As it is still exposed it was easy to remove and the actuating rod is flopping about and not sticking straight out but is moving out with the pedal press but needing multiple presses of pedal to get it to extend.

Looked on ebay - new slave £32 - bought as will be difficult to get to if I have issues with it once interior panels fitted. Says the piston is 22.2mm (travel?).

Photo below shows into the hole in my bellhousing to the clutch lever, does this only need 22mm movement to disengage clutch? Can I knock up a bit of threaded rod to push this to release the clutch mechanism?

If the clutch doesn’t release what options do I have for freeing it off without splitting engine/gearbox (I drove the donor BMW to my workshop 18 months ago and was ok then)?

22mm will be the bore diameter , it would be possible to work out the stroke if you know the stroke and bore size of the master cylinder

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Originally posted by rusty nuts
22mm will be the bore diameter , it would be possible to work out the stroke if you know the stroke and bore size of the master cylinder

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Originally posted by craigdiver 0.75 master cylinder (whatever that means but if 0.75” that equates to 19mm).

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Originally posted by gremlin1234

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Originally posted by craigdiver 0.75 master cylinder (whatever that means but if 0.75” that equates to 19mm).

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its decimal fractions of an inch. -
.75 == 3/4 inch
.625 is common too, (5/8th)
as are 9/16th, and 7/8 etc inch

[Edited on 12/2/18 by gremlin1234]

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pull your old slave cylinder apart and clean the bore with steel wool etc

Lubricate it with brake fluid and put it back together

Put some copper slip on the ball end of the rod and bolt it back on. Best thing to use to bleed is a - Gunson Eezibleed, works great and doesn't need the pedal touched.

Once done and assuming the car runs... jack up the rear wheels (properly) and start it in 3rd gear, rev it up and then jump on the brakes. This jolt will pull the clutch free, sounds dramatic but not bad to the car (unless you have terrible engine mounts)

Make sure you operate the clutch pedal once a month to stop it sticking

Hi Craig,

I've just done exactly the same on my M52 2.8 for exactly the same reason although it was installed in the chassis when I did it. Just for your information I'm using a .625 master cylinder and a standard slave and I can select all gears as you would expect and have a heavy pedal.

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Originally posted by CTLeeds
Hi Craig,

I've just done exactly the same on my M52 2.8 for exactly the same reason although it was installed in the chassis when I did it. Just for your information I'm using a .625 master cylinder and a standard slave and I can select all gears as you would expect and have a heavy pedal.

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Good Luck! I think I'd ratchet strap the chassis to something immovable at both ends to make sure it doesn't rock off the stands and go through the nearest wall.

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Originally posted by CTLeeds
Good Luck! I think I'd ratchet strap the chassis to something immovable at both ends to make sure it doesn't rock off the stands and go through the nearest wall.

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Neither. Preventative maintenance whilst access was good.