roadrunner
|
| posted on 26/2/11 at 08:29 PM |
|
|
Non starting BEC
On my last drive out last year I knocked out my ignition cut off switch out of its holder while paying for a toll. The engine kept ticking over which
I thought was odd, but set off for home none the less. As soon as I started to move it was obvious that I wasn't going to make it home, so
pulled over to reinsert the switch, but before I came to a complete stop there was the loudest backfire from the exhaust I have ever heard, then the
engine just died and wouldn't start.
After a little bit of testing and head scratching , am I wright in thinking that I have blown the ECU, just wanted your more experienced views before
I purchase another ECU.
Thanks
Brad.
|
|
|
|
|
matt_gsxr
|
| posted on 26/2/11 at 09:33 PM |
|
|
Interesting.
Have you worked out why it didn't stop when you removed the ignition switch?
Have you checked the fuses, my megasquirt has a 1Amp fuse.
Is the fuel pump still running?
Are you getting any sparks?
I wouldn't read too much into the massive backfire. That could easily be due to poor ignition whilst you were paying at the toll which would
result in fuel and air in the exhaust and then
|
|
|
roadrunner
|
| posted on 26/2/11 at 09:53 PM |
|
|
The pump can still be heard running when the ignition is switched on, and no, there is no spark.
|
|
|
mistergrumpy
|
| posted on 26/2/11 at 09:59 PM |
|
|
Is the engine even trying to turn?
|
|
|
T66
|
| posted on 26/2/11 at 10:01 PM |
|
|
if the engine still ran after the switch was broken off, sounds like you have a battery cut off switch , rather than one of the fia style ones with an
ignition cut aswell.
|
|
|
roadrunner
|
| posted on 26/2/11 at 10:03 PM |
|
|
Yes the engine does turn even if the cut off switch is out.
I just presumed it was a hot engine keeping it ticking over.
[Edited on 26/2/11 by roadrunner]
|
|
|
mistergrumpy
|
| posted on 26/2/11 at 10:08 PM |
|
|
All I can think of at the moment and it's a bit of a wild card but my ZX9 has a slightly similar thing whereby it won't start unless I
turn the ignition on and then unplug the smaller plug on the ECU and then plug it back in. The engine will only then start. Like I said a wild gues
but maybe if your plug came loose too. 
|
|
|
PaulYDP
|
| posted on 26/2/11 at 10:13 PM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by mistergrumpy
All I can think of at the moment and it's a bit of a wild card but my ZX9 has a slightly similar thing whereby it won't start unless I
turn the ignition on and then unplug the smaller plug on the ECU and then plug it back in. The engine will only then start. Like I said a wild gues
but maybe if your plug came loose too.
Had this exact thing happen my car when I was first getting it wired (zx9 as well). Not sure how it happens but any time it wouldn't start when
we were first getting it wired up if I removed the smaller plug from the cdi for a minute and then put it back in again it started fine! I'd be
trying that before I went out and purchased another one.
|
|
|
roadrunner
|
| posted on 26/2/11 at 10:20 PM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by mistergrumpy
All I can think of at the moment and it's a bit of a wild card but my ZX9 has a slightly similar thing whereby it won't start unless I
turn the ignition on and then unplug the smaller plug on the ECU and then plug it back in. The engine will only then start. Like I said a wild gues
but maybe if your plug came loose too.
I too suffer from this problem. If the car has been stood for a period of time and wont start, I have to remove the plugs from the ecu and refit to
get the engine to fire.
But no, it's not that.
|
|
|
fimi7
|
| posted on 27/2/11 at 09:53 AM |
|
|
the intent of the switch is to cut all power. Basically it should always kill the engine, hot or not. If the engine has no electricity, it should give
no spark, which in turn should kill the engine or not allow it to start.
The fact that pulling the key did not kill the engine, I would start there, sounds like faulty wiring. I would bypass it completely to see if that
works. The next thing would be check the fuses.
--- Ali
|
|
|
roadrunner
|
| posted on 27/2/11 at 12:48 PM |
|
|
Checked all the fuses and the bypass.
|
|
|
BenB
|
| posted on 27/2/11 at 12:56 PM |
|
|
You might have frazed your ECU yes. The cut-off switch disconnects the battery which can mean the regulator goes pete tong and the voltage to the ECU
goes up. It could just be the regulator. Have you tried disconnecting the alternator and regulator and just running it off the battery?
|
|
|
roadrunner
|
| posted on 27/2/11 at 04:03 PM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by BenB
You might have frazed your ECU yes. The cut-off switch disconnects the battery which can mean the regulator goes pete tong and the voltage to the ECU
goes up. It could just be the regulator. Have you tried disconnecting the alternator and regulator and just running it off the battery?
No, but I could give it a try.
|
|
|
MakeEverything
|
| posted on 27/2/11 at 04:30 PM |
|
|
There are 3 things i would check first;
Check the wiring to this switch that fell out.
Check what its supposed to "Isolate" - Battery, Engine, or both.
Check how the original handlebar kill switch was removed / disconnected / replaced. The symptoms you describe are synonymous of a handlebar kill
switch activated. I used to hit the kill switch in the tunnels at high RPM to create the backfire you mention.
Kindest Regards,
Richard.
...You can make it foolProof, but youll never make it Idiot Proof!...
|
|
|
