Padstar
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| posted on 5/5/12 at 03:51 PM |
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New member needing help
Hello, I have just joined the site and need some advise. I have read many threads trying to help with my dilemma but now need some simple answers from
people who have been there and done it.
I have been playing with the idea of building my own 7 style car for a few years now and looked at various routes. I class myself as a very good DIY
person who can build almost anything to a decent standard given the correct instructions to follow. I am also rather hands on with my cars (again with
the use of manuals) but have very little mechanical knowledge as such.
I want to build a "track" car that is road legal with new parts where possible to give a new time related plate at the end.
With this is mind and a single garage available would I be suited?
My plan was to build the car over 2-3 years. Not rushing anything and in doing so reducing the finances by spreading them out.
After a lot of reviewing various options i thought the GTS tuning path was the best route but then have since read several bad reviews of the service
provided so will leave alone.
I then left the idea for a bit until I stumbled across a pre built and flat packed Haynes chassis on eBay from falcon I think. A bit of research later
and I have seen that a member on here handy Andy? Offers such a thing at a very reasonable price. This has now got me thinking seriously about the
idea again. The main appeal being that I could invest in such a kit with minimal initial outlay and see how things go rather than having to stump up
2k ish for a starter kit. Good idea?
This then gives me the following concern. Whilst I was reasonably handy at welding at school, this was some 10 years ago. I am sure with practice this
will return to me and I will get by. BUT is welding the main chassis of a car that I will be driving a good idea? Surely this is best left to the
pros? I am keen to do everything myself but is there a risk of this going wrong and my car splitting in half as I go round a corner? Is there any way
of checking the chasis' durability before it is taken further?
My next question is if I go down the route of a Haynes roadster chassis do the body panels sold by various companies all fit the chassis or do I need
to go down certain routes? I plan to buy prefabed bodywork for the car?
Finally being a slightly fuller figured man is there any scope in increasing the width of the standard chassis whilst still allowing standard
bodywork? I have noticed that most of the manufacturers offer a W (wide) kit - does this work with the Haynes?
I have the how to build a sports car book, but is there a better manual to follow.
Sorry for the long essay!
Any help or further advise would be much appreciated.
Ryan
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jacko
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| posted on 5/5/12 at 05:01 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Padstar
Hello, I have just joined the site and need some advise. I have read many threads trying to help with my dilemma but now need some simple answers from
people who have been there and done it.
I have been playing with the idea of building my own 7 style car for a few years now and looked at various routes. I class myself as a very good DIY
person who can build almost anything to a decent standard given the correct instructions to follow. I am also rather hands on with my cars (again with
the use of manuals) but have very little mechanical knowledge as such.
I want to build a "track" car that is road legal with new parts where possible to give a new time related plate at the end.
With this is mind and a single garage available would I be suited?
My plan was to build the car over 2-3 years. Not rushing anything and in doing so reducing the finances by spreading them out.
After a lot of reviewing various options i thought the GTS tuning path was the best route but then have since read several bad reviews of the service
provided so will leave alone.
I then left the idea for a bit until I stumbled across a pre built and flat packed Haynes chassis on eBay from falcon I think. A bit of research later
and I have seen that a member on here handy Andy? Offers such a thing at a very reasonable price. This has now got me thinking seriously about the
idea again. The main appeal being that I could invest in such a kit with minimal initial outlay and see how things go rather than having to stump up
2k ish for a starter kit. Good idea?
This then gives me the following concern. Whilst I was reasonably handy at welding at school, this was some 10 years ago. I am sure with practice this
will return to me and I will get by. BUT is welding the main chassis of a car that I will be driving a good idea? Surely this is best left to the
pros? I am keen to do everything myself but is there a risk of this going wrong and my car splitting in half as I go round a corner? Is there any way
of checking the chasis' durability before it is taken further?
My next question is if I go down the route of a Haynes roadster chassis do the body panels sold by various companies all fit the chassis or do I need
to go down certain routes? I plan to buy prefabed bodywork for the car?
Finally being a slightly fuller figured man is there any scope in increasing the width of the standard chassis whilst still allowing standard
bodywork? I have noticed that most of the manufacturers offer a W (wide) kit - does this work with the Haynes?
I have the how to build a sports car book, but is there a better manual to follow.
Sorry for the long essay!
Any help or further advise would be much appreciated.
Ryan
Hi and welcome
from reading your post it sounds like you are ideal for building a locost car [ 7 ] anyone who is good at diy has a advantage
If you can / have welded before it will come back to you it really needs to be MIG not stick welding
If you are not to sure about trusting your welds it may be best to buy a chassis that is made by a reputable company IE MK /Mc1 /westfield / MNR etc
The how to build by Ron Champion is a bit out of date now look for the newer Haynes book
How big are you ? the Companies i have named car take largish people
And go and have a look at the shows and sit in some cars first before buying steel etc
I hope this helps you
Jacko
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Padstar
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| posted on 5/5/12 at 05:22 PM |
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Thanks for the info. So would u recomend against welding yourself unless you are a regular at it?
I am 6ft 3" 16st, dark hair and brown eyes 
[Edited on 5/5/12 by Padstar]
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theduck
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| posted on 5/5/12 at 05:31 PM |
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You aren't they big then!
Best bet for sizing is get to stoneleigh national kit car show tomorrow and smile sweetly at some owners!
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Padstar
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| posted on 5/5/12 at 05:43 PM |
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Not really but the standard 7 in my local caterham garage was a tight sqeeze. Was looking for a bit more room
Would a thorough spot welding job followed by grinding the welds down do the job?
Maybe I am just being a bit over concerned about the welding part? How many of u have done the full construction of the chassis vs buying a pre built
structure?
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theduck
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| posted on 5/5/12 at 05:58 PM |
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I bought a part built robin hood s7, and I'm 6' and 18st and Im comfortably snug in that.
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Confused but excited.
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| posted on 5/5/12 at 06:53 PM |
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You could always do what I did; A welding course, at night school, at the local tech. It cost £60 six years ago and one of the best things I ever did.
Then buy a Mig welder and off you go . . .
Tell them about the bent treacle edges!
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jacko
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| posted on 5/5/12 at 07:01 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Padstar
Not really but the standard 7 in my local caterham garage was a tight sqeeze. Was looking for a bit more room
Would a thorough spot welding job followed by grinding the welds down do the job?
Maybe I am just being a bit over concerned about the welding part? How many of u have done the full construction of the chassis vs buying a pre built
structure?
Im 5ft 8 ins and 13+ stone and the Caterham is tight for me
There are very tall people on this site that fit in the cars / makes i mentioned above the MNR has a good size cab
As for the welding only you know how good you are.
I have been welding for about 40 + years and i decided it was easier to buy a MK indy chassis / kit even though i have all the welding gear and
skills to make a chassis i am a vehicle body builder by trade
Jacko
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les g
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| posted on 5/5/12 at 07:04 PM |
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Have you consideeed the Zero from Great British Sportscars.
Several people on here are building them and they have good reviews also they have just launched a widebody version..
Also talonmotosport do a built and bracketed chassis for the haynes roadster at a fair price .
that would give you a good start.
if your not into doing the welding.
cheers les g
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handyandy
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| posted on 5/5/12 at 07:06 PM |
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Hi Ryan,
firstly, welcome to the forum .
You are doing the right thing by doing some good research before embarking on something that will be a long term project, as others have said , if you
can get yourself to the Stoneleigh Kit Car Show this weekend, you,ll find every shape & size & type of kit car there is at the show & I,m
sure if you ask nicely most owners/builders would let you sit in them to try the size etc ( but please do ask first ).
As for some of your questions, I,ll try to answer....
Having a single garage won,t stop you building, we,d all like more space but a single garage build is certainly do-able .
Re ..welding, as others have said, I,m sure you,ll pick it up again with a few hours practice, maybe attend an evening class at a Technical college to
give yourself a refresher & build your confidence etc....That is what I did .
Re..bodywork, the original moulds made for the first Haynes Roadster ( made by Triton ,) are now owned by a company called NTS Fabrications &
still provides the majority( to my knowledge) of all bodywork for the Roadster, & also supply fully welded chassis/wishbones etc etc.
There is another company offering bodywork that fits the Roadster although I haven,t seen any fitted to a car.
Don,t make the common mistake that bodywork sold as to fit a "Haynes Locost" will fit the ROADSTER as it won,t, the Locost is the term
given to the car from the first Haynes book by the author Ron Champion , the Haynes Roadster is by the author Chris Gibbs & are totally different
dimensions..........the Roadster is 2inches wider & 4 inches longer ( give or take a MM) than a LOCOST chassis.
You would fit in a Roadster no probs at all, the guy that owned Saturn Sports Cars ( now NTS Fabrications ) is 6ft 7 tall & 17stone & he fits
no probs at all
If you are thinking of building your own from scratch then the book you need is "Build a sports car on a budget " by "Chris Gibbs),
this book is for the Roadster that gives fully IRS ( sierra based donor ) or can be easily adapted to accept the Mazda MX5 as its donor.
I know of over 100 Roadster currently in build , I have supplied over 60 of those chassis kits , & I,m sure there are builds out there that I,m
not aware of . If building from scratch is your thing then give it a go......BUT do some more research & find the build project that best suits
your wants/needs & most of all.......enjoy your build , whatever it may be 
sorry for the long essay too .
cheers
andy
[Edited on 5/5/12 by handyandy]
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gazza285
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| posted on 6/5/12 at 12:16 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by jacko
If you can / have welded before it will come back to you it really needs to be MIG not stick welding.
Why? I've just sold my MIG but kept my Pickhill Bantam because I'd rather use MMA than MIG, but the choice is dependent on personal
ability and experience.
And with respect to Peteff, make sure you use a quality earth clamp whatever.
DO NOT PUT ON KNOB OR BOLLOCKS!
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Padstar
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| posted on 6/5/12 at 07:20 AM |
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Ok I have done a bit of looking around and it looks like my local college does a welding course in the evenings. The plan is to go to that and
hopefully decide that I am then capable to do my own fabrication. This will also give me some time to clear the garage.
Can't get to the show today as I am off to formula silverstone to hopefully pick up a podium finish. Are there any other shows in the next few
weeks?
What is required to achieve a new reg, are reconditioned transmition parts acceptable.
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jacko
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| posted on 6/5/12 at 09:08 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by gazza285
quote:
Originally posted by jacko
If you can / have welded before it will come back to you it really needs to be MIG not stick welding.
Why? I've just sold my MIG but kept my Pickhill Bantam because I'd rather use MMA than MIG, but the choice is dependent on personal
ability and experience.
And with respect to Peteff, make sure you use a quality earth clamp whatever.
Well after welding for years using stick / mig /tig for some one that is not use to welding i would say Mig is going to be the easiest for them
I do agree you can use stick but it will be harder for them and i do agree Tig would be better
Its up to the individual what they use
Jacko
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Padstar
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| posted on 6/5/12 at 03:41 PM |
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Does anyone have a PDF copy of the current Haynes roadster manual with the corrections made to it? I have the hard copy book but have been told there
are several errors within it. Is this true?
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