shindha
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posted on 8/11/14 at 10:49 PM |
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Differential leaking
Hi, I have a differential leak it is leaking along the drive pinion, so I am assuming it is leaking through the collapsible spacer, to remove this
would I will need to remove the drive pinion nut. I have checked the front oil seal and that is dry therefore not leaking. I have been advised that
this does not form a seal and that it just needs a bit of sealant along it but cant figure out where, could some one assist.
I have had the diff for a while but not running in a car, it has been sitting in the garage.
Now my quandary is should I get the diff reconditioned if I get the leak fixed by a professional or should I try to replace the collapsible spacer
myself. If so how difficult is it and has anybody done this.
One part of me says to get it refurbished whilst it’s out of the car, on the other hand I don’t want to spend money if it’s necessary, so I have put
some pictures up as the gears look OK to me, so therefore wouldn’t mind a professional looking at it and giving me their opinion.
I am based on Sunny Brum. Thanks for looking.
Description
Description
Description
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gremlin1234
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posted on 9/11/14 at 11:39 AM |
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has the diff been stored with its drive facing down?
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shindha
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posted on 9/11/14 at 08:57 PM |
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Hi Gremlin it was stored without oil on its bottom.
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hkp57
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posted on 10/11/14 at 07:17 AM |
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Once you have removed the drive pinion nut its a point of no return, to assemble it properly the rest of the diff unit must be removed so during
assemble you can properly check the pre-load on the pinion bearing and measure the run out.
For the price of a re-build kit and a profesional rebuild in my mind is far better than putting it in as is and then fighting leaks or bearing
problems in the future.
PM me your email address and I will send you the ford manual on them.
Fleet
SKC Raptor R - Hayabusa
Toyota C-HR Hybrid Limited Edition
Honda VFR1200 CrossTourer
DCT
Marlin Roadster 1800
Mercedes Vito 116 Sport
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Non custom
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posted on 10/11/14 at 10:30 AM |
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Wouldn't mind the manual myself if possible too please ?
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ChrisL
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posted on 10/11/14 at 03:56 PM |
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And me too, will PM you my email address, if that's ok...
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hkp57
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posted on 10/11/14 at 06:32 PM |
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Sure I can send it or get it online to download
http://www.super7thheaven.co.uk/Sierra_Rear_Differential
Fleet
SKC Raptor R - Hayabusa
Toyota C-HR Hybrid Limited Edition
Honda VFR1200 CrossTourer
DCT
Marlin Roadster 1800
Mercedes Vito 116 Sport
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Smoking Frog
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posted on 10/11/14 at 07:47 PM |
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Had the same problem, replaced the radial oil seal and it still leaked. I applied sealant to the drive flange as shown. It seems to have stopped the
leak but not IVA'd yet so unable to confirm if it will last. I cannot say this is a good way of doing it, a rebuild may be required.
Drive Flange
There's also a good pdf called "DiffOverhaul.pdf" ,use the link to google.
https://www.google.co.uk/#q=DiffOverhaul.pdf
Edit:Just found the direct link.
http://www.fordscorpio.co.uk/manual/rearaxle/DiffOverhaul.pdf
[Edited on 10/11/14 by Smoking Frog]
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sickbag
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posted on 11/11/14 at 10:37 AM |
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Just read the build manual for the diff - I think stripping and rebuilding an engine seems more straightforward in comparison
Finally back on the job!
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Mr Whippy
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posted on 11/11/14 at 12:28 PM |
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As long as you mark the position of the nut on the thread with a punch and then count the number of turns to remove the nut, replace the seal then
tighten the nut up to exactly the same number of turns and align the mark on the nut then the preload is exactly the same as before. This is a quite
normal procedure and I've used it many times on the landys.
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mcerd1
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posted on 13/11/14 at 08:42 AM |
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quote: Originally posted by Mr Whippy
As long as you mark the position of the nut on the thread with a punch and then count the number of turns to remove the nut, replace the seal then
tighten the nut up to exactly the same number of turns and align the mark on the nut then the preload is exactly the same as before. This is a quite
normal procedure and I've used it many times on the landys.
but a DTI with a stand only costs £20 (or even less s/h on ebay) - so if your going to do it you might as well check most of the measurements as per
the manual above while your at it
or at least use a bit of engineers / marking blue to check the contact patch on the gears
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