Alex.
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posted on 24/4/18 at 06:52 PM |
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Pinto Head Gasket Help, Please!!
Hi guys,
I am rebuilding the top end of the Pinto in my Tiger and have come across a strange problem.
The rebuild itself was successful, new Newman cam and followers installed, the installation onto the engine also seemed to go according to plan.
Head gasket on, the only orientation that made any sense with the holes in the gasket and the head bolt holes and the other voids under/through the
gasket. Used old head bolt trick of removing the heads and cutting a slot, to orient the gasket and ensure it did not move. Head bolts in and
torqued up just fine.
Dropped the old oil out and tried to fill up with new, this is where it gets strange. To lubricate the new top end parts, I left the rocker cover off
and poured oil directly over the cam, followers and springs. It did not drain with any urgency, it just sat there going down VERY slowly.
I thought that it might be because the cover was off, so I put the rocker cover on and a funnel in the spout. In goes the oil, draining down the
funnel really slowly. So slow in fact, that it took 5 minutes to start moving after about 3 funnels full.
So with that all said (rather cathartic!), to the question. Have I installed the head gasket correctly?
Did I choose the right gasket from Burtons? This one -
Head Gasket Linky
Should I just bite the bullet and get a new head gasket and stretch bolts from the local Ford dealer? If I do, I might even make the 1:40 MOT slot
that is booked for tomorrow!
Alex.
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jacko
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posted on 24/4/18 at 07:32 PM |
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http://www.burtonpower.com/felpro-head-gasket-ford-2-0-sohc-pinto-ft776.html
this looks different to yours
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Alex.
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posted on 24/4/18 at 07:51 PM |
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quote: Originally posted by jacko
http://www.burtonpower.com/felpro-head-gasket-ford-2-0-sohc-pinto-ft776.html
this looks different to yours
The pictures are a different way up to each other, which might be part of the difference. It looks like the one I used has more holes, so should
drain quicker?
Alex.
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gremlin1234
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posted on 24/4/18 at 08:01 PM |
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three questions/ points
what oil?
what temperature?
don't forget /most/ of the oil circulation is through big ends and mains, not head
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Alex.
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posted on 24/4/18 at 08:41 PM |
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quote: Originally posted by gremlin1234
three questions/ points
what oil?
what temperature?
don't forget /most/ of the oil circulation is through big ends and mains, not head
Oil - Halfords tin can of 20W50, it is green!
Temperature - South of England today was in the mid teens Celsius.
It makes sense that most circulation is in the bottom of the engine, but surely it should drain down fairly quickly when filled from the top?
Alex.
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02GF74
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posted on 24/4/18 at 09:08 PM |
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Is the correct gasket fitted and fitted correctly, the bolt holes, oil and waterways should align with the engine block.
Using a funnel can be misleading as the diameter of the spout affects the flow. Difficult to give timings as I've never taken any but a rough
guess would be a cupful of oil should drain down in 1/2 a minute.
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perksy
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posted on 24/4/18 at 09:13 PM |
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Aslong as you've fitted the right gasket and fitted it the right way around & located it correctly it should be fine
If you've fitted a new cam have you smeared the cam lobes etc with the supplied lubricant in order to protect the cam as it is run in?
Just using fresh engine oil won't be any good
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Alex.
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posted on 24/4/18 at 09:22 PM |
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quote: Originally posted by 02GF74
Is the correct gasket fitted and fitted correctly, the bolt holes, oil and waterways should align with the engine block.
That's the thing that is concerning me, I don't know if the cometic gaskets are for any special tuning or also for standard engines.
I think it is oriented correctly, bolt holes line up and so did holes in the block.
quote: Originally posted by 02GF74Using a funnel can be misleading as the diameter of the spout affects the flow. Difficult to give timings as
I've never taken any but a rough guess would be a cupful of oil should drain down in 1/2 a minute.
1/2 minute for a cup full seems quite slow, compared to doing oil changes on more modern engines. Maybe this is right...
Alex.
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Alex.
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posted on 24/4/18 at 09:27 PM |
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quote: Originally posted by perksy
Aslong as you've fitted the right gasket and fitted it the right way around & located it correctly it should be fine
If you've fitted a new cam have you smeared the cam lobes etc with the supplied lubricant in order to protect the cam as it is run in?
Just using fresh engine oil won't be any good
No lubricant supplied and I am sure that Ken would have mentioned the need, when we were discussing this application.
Alex.
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perksy
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posted on 24/4/18 at 09:34 PM |
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Hmmm Every Cam I've fitted has either come with the Cam lube or I've used assembly fluid
When you run it in your going to be holding it at fairly high revs for a period of time
Still if their happy to warrant the cam with no Cam lube then good luck
[Edited on 24/4/18 by perksy]
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Alex.
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posted on 24/4/18 at 09:47 PM |
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quote: Originally posted by perksy
When you run it in your going to be holding it at fairly high revs for a period of time
Why at fairly high revs? The pistons/cylinders/rings have not even been exposed, let alone disturbed, so I'll just be driving normally until I
get used to the car!
Alex.
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perksy
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posted on 24/4/18 at 10:01 PM |
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If you've fitted a new cam and followers it'll need running in at the required speed for the required length of time
https://www.pipercams.co.uk/Camshaft-Installation/
[Edited on 24/4/18 by perksy]
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02GF74
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posted on 24/4/18 at 10:03 PM |
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quote: Originally posted by Alex.
1/2 minute for a cup full seems quite slow, compared to doing oil changes on more modern engines. Maybe this is right...
Alex.
This is a finger in the air type of estimate. If oil is draining from the head slower than that then it is a bit worrying.
Note when you drain oil, it is usually when the oil is hot plus the additional pressure due to depth in the sump forces it out.
Difficult to say if you have a problem without seeing it.
The oil ways may be blocked in the block or by the gasket, bear in mind my timing is for over engine (crossflow other rv8) which have oil ways for the
pushrods.) so a longer time to drain may be OK for ohc.
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owelly
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posted on 24/4/18 at 10:57 PM |
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It's been a while since I had a Pinto in bits but looking at the gaskets, there are not many holes for the oil to run back through. Most of the
holes are for coolant. As long as the hole were clear in the head and block, then I'd say it's good to go.
I've never paid too much attention to using cam lube if it wasn't close to hand. Usual turn the engine over with the coil disconnected to
build up oil pressure, reconnect spark and run.
http://www.ppcmag.co.uk
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joneh
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posted on 25/4/18 at 04:08 PM |
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Assuming it's a Newman cam, follow the guidelines from them regarding running in. They say you don't have to hold the revs, just take it
easy for the first 100 miles. He doesn't supply cam lube but you do need it. You're going to need to lube those lobes before starting.
http://www.newman-cams.com/camshaft-fitting/
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snapper
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posted on 25/4/18 at 05:52 PM |
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You can pretty much glug the oil in a Pinto and it will flow down the oil return hole, if your using a funnel then you measuring the funnel flow not
the drain from the head
With the rocker cover off you should be able to push a 5mm dial down the oil drain, if it’s blocked by the gasket cut it to a bigger size.
Newman cams have different rocker pad material, if your just bunting a bare cam in I would always use lube because it won’t harm and will provide more
protection
I eat to survive
I drink to forget
I breath to pi55 my ex wife off (and now my ex partner)
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Alex.
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posted on 25/4/18 at 10:24 PM |
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Turns out I am really a muppet! I had the gasket the wrong way round and was blocking the oil drain holes.
New gasket and bolts fitted, MOT moved to tomorrow!
Alex.
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owelly
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posted on 26/4/18 at 03:01 AM |
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Mistakes are how we learn.....
http://www.ppcmag.co.uk
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