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Flatshifter set up help
charlierevell - 9/8/08 at 03:35 PM

Hi Guys,

Flatshifter is fitted and all working, however i could do with some tips on the set up.

I have quite a tough linkage to pull thru so when i first drove it in factory setting it kept getting a false neutral. Think it was only getting halfway thru before putting the power back on.

Made it take more pressure and it was much better, but gave a bit of a kick each time i change.
Does it need to cut the revs quicker or later? (the faster you pull it the better it was)


and then.... what is the consequence of having a blip too large/too small on the downshift?

any thoughts would be great, thanks!

charlierevell - 10/8/08 at 10:20 PM

Any ideas from anyone on this?

motorcycle_mayhem - 11/8/08 at 07:21 AM

I have two versions, the solenoid Proshift on the sensible car and the Power Commander cut system on the sprinter (with an AB manual gearshift set-up).
I've been happy with both of these 'off the bench' so I can't really help on an adjustment. It DOES sound though (to me) that you're lagging behind on the gearchange mechanism, it really does need a good swift positive action.
What I can say is that if the 'cut' isn't long enough on either, it won't change, they'll both stay in gear (GSXR750).

sucksqueezebangblow - 11/8/08 at 09:52 AM

I may be wrong but it sounds to me like you may need to increase the kill time very slightly.

charlierevell - 11/8/08 at 10:00 AM

Kill time is fixed on the flatshifter....

gingerprince - 11/8/08 at 12:04 PM

quote:
Originally posted by charlierevell
Kill time is fixed on the flatshifter....


I'd be very surprised, and the flatshifter website suggests otherwise: -

"The kill time is typically around 60ms but may be adjusted on the control unit."

On my kliktronic there's a tiny pot covered by a plastic cap. I'd expect something similar.

To not allow adjustment would make it a very nasty solution. Every bike will want a slightly different kill time.

charlierevell - 11/8/08 at 12:24 PM

Ahhh fair enough... it mentions in the instructions is doesnt need adjusting as it is set up in the factory. I hadnt really looked that hard but i will have a gander!

charlierevell - 11/8/08 at 02:03 PM

Having looked at the box and taken it apart there is no obvious adjustment. The only 'moving' part is a 6 way din switch.

Increased the pressure needed and its deffo better like that, but needs you to be really on it to get the best shift. (or at least pull the lever quick and hard)
It does still give you a bit of a kick forwards when it re engages tho.

On the downshift its still a little lumpy, any ideas on more or less blip??

sucksqueezebangblow - 11/8/08 at 02:09 PM

If it gives a kick forward I'd say you need less blip on the down shift. But if the wheels briefly lock or "chirp" you need more blip.

motorcycle_mayhem - 11/8/08 at 05:41 PM

Reading this after a lovely day at work, just wondering if you might be hoping for too much when being gentle.
Neither of my systems are at all smooth (or reliable) at anything less than ear-bleeding engine abuse.

simoto - 11/8/08 at 10:20 PM

Ditto the above, dog boxes dont really do smooth low engine speed changes. I would suggest different blips would be needed for different operating perameters/circumstances(remember its about matching engine revs to road speed). In racing mode its an easy brief really on a bike.
With a wide variety of road situations and car levels of inertia i think it would need to be ecu controlled at least, with inputs from various systems for smart operation.