Hi

SVA booked for 8th November, so I'd welcome opinions on the current state of build.

Somethings I'm worried about:

Steering wheel - its a Mountney (allegedly) SVA compliant item. Is it OK or do I put the Sierra wheel back on?

Reservoir to master cylinder hose - this is unmarked. It came from Europa as part of their fitting kit

Radius on bottom of dash maybe insufficient.

Anyway, here I will post the pics now, any comments gratefully appreciated

Andy

Description

Engine 1

Engine 2

Rear view

[img][/img]

Interior 1

Nice looking motor, well done.

things i noticed

steering wheel, if thats the one in the pic put your sierra one back on.

front brake pipe flexis may need clipping up if they're not.

contactable radius on bottom of your front shockers(bit you wind to adjust ride height)

contactable radius on hex part still showing on your rack/extensions. and top swivel locknuts.

is you battery fixed down(couldn't see anything in the pic?)

if the dash is not 'rolled' at the bottom don't think it will pass.

maybe top harness mounts(seat hole is higher than anchorage point.)

radius on headlamp mount

errr think thats it.

HTH
Ray

[Edited on 1/11/05 by rayward]

1. The battery terminals may need covering
2. Top ball joint nut covering
3. Bonnet catches may fail radius - most people use the rubber ones for SVA, however you could probably make some covers from something.

Apart from that all looks great, I bet you are feeling really proud of your work (and should be too !).

Just wait until you pass the SVA it will feel even better.

Nice motor mate, the only thing I noticed and am probably talking b0ll0cks but the larger dia copper pipe running across the top, the bracket that is securing it to the rocker cover does that need to have some sort of sleeve to stop chafing like on brake lines and clips. I'm sure other members will be more knowledgable than me. Hope mine turns out as well as that.

Rich

Hi Ray

Thanks for the comments.

I'll get the Sierra wheel back on!

Will cable ties be ok to secure the brake pipe flexis?

Radius on front suspension items, noted, I will cover as you recommend.

Battery is fixed down.

The dash is a flat carbon fibre panel, with a u-trim on the edge (as per the Luego build manual) but I'm not sure about it passing.

I'll check the harness mounts, thanks

Cheers

Andy

rear reflectors if built into lights need to be vertical, have you covered the exhaust fixing brackets

looking good.

yes cable ties will be fine for the pipes, just make sure they don't fowl anything or pull tight at full lock,

from memory i think the dash bottom has to be 19mm radius??, may be wrong but worth checking

Ray

[Edited on 1/11/05 by rayward]

hi i was looking at your lights on your
nose cone that are on stalks i have got the same one's for my cat(tiger avon)please could you tell me what you used
and how it was made and how long it is
from nose to the end thanks..

Reflectors do not have to be vertical only fog light, bottom edge of the dash is fine as long as it is covered with trim so he can't feel the edge.

Rich.

A - Check Radii (is that the plural?)

B - As A

C - As A

D - As A - I used an old model car racing tire on the bottom of each shock for this. I can send you some if needed.

E - As A

F - I know it's probably rubber, but also as A.

Having bee through it, the advice I would give you is cover everything that you can. First impressions really are important. If it looks right he's less likely to go poking around.

Oh, and put the bus wheel back on.

Cheers

G

Oooppps, abouve post refers to this pic.
Rescued attachment front susp marked up.jpg

quote:

---

Originally posted by shortie
Reflectors do not have to be vertical only fog light

---

I went for the belt and braces approach on the front suspension and covered everything in sight.

Top wishbone joint/camber adjustment was covered with a bit of flexi rubber tubing from tailgate wiring off a Metro

TRE covers from drilled out pipe end covers + Metro door electrics flexi rubber tubing

Exposed spring adjuster rings and threads covered with strips of bike inner tube glued on.

Steering ball joints covered with coolant hose cut out (possible "sharp" radius)

Possible contact on the ends of the grill bars?

You car looks great - hope the tests goes well.
Rescued attachment 2005-10-16 2 Locost SVA trim.JPG

I used the same mountney wheel at my first attempt and nothing was said. As for radius of dash if its nt contactable then its not looked at. So the rubber trim over it should be fine. Thats what the sva guy told me. Watch the folded edges on your trans tunnel. Can also be regarded as sharp edges if they come out to far. Thats about all I can see apart from that already stated. Good luck.

Just a couple of points:
1/ Headlamp mountings will most certainly fail. Need to be radiused, I think 5mm Rad.
2/ Bottom of dash, the SVA regs are that if solid, (unpadded), then it needs to be 19mm Rad. but if padded then they will accept 5mm Rad

Hi

Nice looking car.

The pipes to to the master cylinders will need to marked I got some from Burton Power and downloaded a spec sheet from the web, search for sytec.

Did you get the screen from Luego, if so check that the bs marking is correct should be BS857 or BS857-2. Mine was made from glass not suitable for automotive use. I had to have a new one cut as Luego could not supply one that was correct althougth they are going to pay for it.

I see you have banjos on the front calipers, your tester may ask if the seats have been machined I said that they had and he was fine.

Hope this helps.

Keith

[Edited on 2/11/05 by keith2lp]

I too passed with that Mountney wheel but if you have the sierra one to hand (I didn't) then it won't hurt to fit it. My pipes from Reservoir to Master aren't marked - there should be no pressure so not sure they need to be. Can't remember the examiner looking. Overall it depends on your approach - do you desperately want to pass first time - i.e. is it a pain to get there? If not then there's a lot to be said for trying your best but if you fail then you have a definitive list of what you need to fix. I did that and a some of what I thought might fail - in line with some of the suggestions above - he never picked up on. Once you fail with a list he only checks the things on the list.

Not sure about your grill. If any of the tube ends are proud of the face of the nose, then it will probably fail the radius test.

The grill on my Viento (identical to yours but bigger)is proud of the front face of my nose cone, so what I've done is to slot the grp which is directly behind the horizontal bars on the grill. This has allowed the grill to move inwards and therefore render the bars flush with the front face of the nose cone.
There is now no edges that can be contactable with the sphere the SVA chappie uses, so hopefully will get through. You cannot see the slots as they are behind the grill.

Do you need to have the grill fitted for the SVA anyway?

It's a shame Luego don't make the inner face of the nose a little deeper.
Save all this hassle.

Anyway, great job, certainly looks the business.

Best of luck with the SVA

Cheers

Dave

Thanks for all the comments - very much appreciated.

givemethebighammer - I have some battery terminal covers, will fit them. Also made some covers for the bonnet catches that I hope will be OK

Marshall - there are instructions on how to mount the front indicators in the build manual on the Luego site (go to the Velocity page, then build manual, then section 10). If you need any more info let me know.

Northy - thanks for the annotated diagram, I'll attend to these

Humbug - thats one rubbered up front suspension! Very useful, thanks

Emsfactory - I think I will change the steering wheel to be on the safe side. The folded edge on the trans tunnel is a good point, I have some rubber edge trim I can fit

Keith - the windscreen was from Luego, I will check, thanks

Baldrick - I'm only about 5 miles from the SVA centre & planning to drive there so no transport problems (unless its rains of course). If I come away with list of easy things to fix it will be a major result.

Dave - the bars in the grill do stick out a ver small amount. The open ends have been fitted with caps to give them some rounding. As you suggest, may be as well to remove for the test.

Once again, thanks to everyone who replied, I'll let you know how it turns out

Andy