Hi guys,

What do you people use to track your cars up? Is it worth buying the kit so I can do when I like or do most just take it down to local wheel place

I need to get it something like in the garage before I drive it anywhere

Thanks

quote:

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Originally posted by beaver34
Hi guys,

What do you people use to track your cars up? Is it worth buying the kit so I can do when I like or do most just take it down to local wheel place

I need to get it something like in the garage before I drive it anywhere

Thanks

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2 bricks, 2 lengths of steel box section, a tape measure. If wood was available straight that will do rather than steel box....
I use 800mm lengths, needs to be longer than the tyres at brick height. Think they were part of a steel-framed skool table.

Used the string box, straight edges, rulers, cheap lasers, etc, but the trackace beats them hands down for repetability and ease of use, and its more accurate. All for the sake of £70 just buy the trackace if you are serious about doing your alignment. Happy to demonsstrate the kit if you com to a race day or my house.

I use a Gunsons trackrite, which you drive over to get a reading. Seems to work perfectly and cost about £40.

Stu

I used a tape measure s couple of blocks of wood and a laser spirit level car drives as straight as a die no noticeable tyre wear, self centres.

centre the wheels, place block of wood up to wheel tread mark a set distance fom the block of wood (both wheels) do the same to the rear of the wheels then place the laser level oflat to the rim of the wheel you may need to make a small spacer to clear the wheel. Then mark on the line where the laser hits it both front and rear of the wheel. Measure the distance between the two then start to adjust the track rod in or out to suit

Hope that makes sense

For 4 wheel alignment I use 4 axle stands (or similar), fine nylon string, tape measure, steel rule.

Put the 4 stands at the corners of car and put the string either side running front to rear level with the hub centres.
The string now needs to be set parallel to the car using the distance to wheel centre as a reference. Differences in axle widths should be allowed for by measuring with a tape measure front and rear so the string is parallel and close to the wheels without touching anywhere. You can then use the steel rule (or tape measure) to check the tracking on all 4 wheels and make adjustments without touching string.

I then use my 'old school' Dunlop tracking gauge to check the front and rear independantely against the 'string' results, which is always fine

BTW - There was a proper guide by Ralph Hoosier for doing this in Practical Classics a while back.

There's a guy on here who does it in Sheffield (barraw).

Think he was charging £40 for the set up. Linky

Steve

Same as MK9R, I have one of those too and find it really easy to use. Seems to work for my Locost anyhow.

JB

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Originally posted by couch22k
There's a guy on here who does it in Sheffield (barraw).

Think he was charging £40 for the set up. Linky

Steve

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String box.

Yep, I'm around most Saturdays and Sunday. I was setup at Blyton Park track last weekend in the hanger setting up the 4-wheel laser alignment and corner weighting.

It's an ideal situation because people can try out different settings, like a bit more toe or camber, do a few laps then get me to make a few tweaks. It went really well.

If a Sierra front axle is grafted on a kit car do all the doner alignment figures still apply?

Anyone compared the trackrite/trackace etc sort of things against a proper 4 wheel alignment? I wasn't happy with the feeling of my tintop after two consecutive trackings being done (and I watched the guys and couldn't see a fault with their method) but when it went on the 4 wheel rig they showed me the front end was notably different to the readout from the other two, and it fixed it. I've been considering buying something similar myself but wasn't sure of the accuracy.