Will have to take the entire thing to pieces tommorow and see whats what
Trying to undo the bleed nipple on my rear slave cylinder (Drum type) and the darn thing sheared off....
Is there any possible way of getting the remainder out, or am I looking at a new slave?.....the nipple must be wedged in there proper hard to snap a
nipple!
If you don't mind a new seal kit then try plenty of heat and a removal set.
There again a new cylinder is probably cheaper than a seal kit!
Steve
If it is steel, mig weld a blob on top and weld a small bar/steel strip to the blob.
The heat from the weld should help shift it when you turn the bar.
easy out?
Look at it this way, 2 minutes to Change a cylinder at a cost of about a tenner, OR, about an hour of faffing around trying/succeding in getting the
nipple out and then you have to find a nipple and bleed the system/wheel anyway.
With changing the cylinder, at least you know its new and will have peace of mind.
For me its a no brainer, ............ New cylinder.
quote:
Originally posted by Danozeman
easy out?
They are an utter doddle to get out with a stud extractor.
Hole already the right size just wind it out...
What could possibly go wrong?!
A new slave Cyl is about £20....its a Triumph TR6 rear IRS....
Will have to take the entire thing to pieces tommorow and see whats what
new slave
its brakes not some where i would try and save a bit of cash its some where i would spend the cash, much better than a brick wall or a tree
Having always read the "mig a nut on" and thought "that'd never work" I was mightily bemused when I tried it the other day and it worked like blooming clockwork....
mig and nut gets my vote.
hold an m8 over the nipple then blast through the centre of the nut with the mig.
wait to cool then turn with spanner. job done.
There are TWO kinds of easy-outs...the ones that look like left-hand thread screws (DON'T use these! They're hard as files, and break very easily), and the type that are square in cross-section, kind of like a piece of square stock steel that tapers slightly. These ones are spring tempered, and VERY hard to break. You just tap it into the hole in the nipple, and unscrew it. One size of this type fits several hole sizes, so 3-4 of these will cover most of the things you'll have to remove...
Just bleed it by slackening the pipe union -- single pump close the nipple while a helper holds down the pedal, bring the pedal up and repeat say 3
times.
NB I have noticed an increasing trend on the web to call wheel cylinders "slave" cylinders --- this causes confusion slave
cylnders are for clutches.
[Edited on 20/9/08 by britishtrident]
[/pedant hat on] a wheel cylinder is a slave cylinder.......
a slave cylinder isn't necessarily a wheel cylinder. [pedant hat on]
tom
quote:
Originally posted by indykid
[/pedant hat on] a wheel cylinder is a slave cylinder.......
a slave cylinder isn't necessarily a wheel cylinder. [pedant hat on]
tom
As BT states slave cylinder is for clutch and wheel cylinder is for brakes . Ask anybody that works in the motor trade.
quote:
Originally posted by zetec7
There are TWO kinds of easy-outs...the ones that look like left-hand thread screws (DON'T use these! They're hard as files, and break very easily), and the type that are square in cross-section, kind of like a piece of square stock steel that tapers slightly. These ones are spring tempered, and VERY hard to break. You just tap it into the hole in the nipple, and unscrew it. One size of this type fits several hole sizes, so 3-4 of these will cover most of the things you'll have to remove...
