I'm trying to solder a brass nipple onto a galvanised 1.5mm cable for the throttle but it's not going great.
I first tried with a plumbers blow torch & solder after dipping into a tub of flux but it just carbonised the wire, got very hot but didn't take any solder. Then tried with a 100w iron & electrical solder. Slightly better but it didn't really flow into the nipple. Any tips for success greatly appreciated before I run out of wire

I doubt you can solder directly to the zinc coating, you'll have to burn it off first or use vinegar

why has your wife got brass nipples?

tried the same thing myself a while back. didn't work either.
i think the way they're normally done is dipping the nipple and cable into molten solder (rather than heat the cable and stick solid solder in) but i instead had someone just make a cable up for me properly

1st push the cable through the nipple, so the end comes out of the contersunk side of the nipple hole.

Fray the last 5 or so mm of cable and using fine emery paper clean the frayed cable.

Flux the cable, then draw it back into the recess in the nipple, you need a powerful iron, or fine flame torch now to solder it up.

The solder should stand proud of the nipple, dress this and the excess cable back with a small file.

I spoke to a guy at Venhill (cable suppliers) who suggested cleaning the end in some acid solution before fluxing & soldering so I'll try that. Also I'll try to make up a small solder pot to dip the end in.

after youve cleaned the end of the cable you should bend the wires back in on them selves and pull that back into the nipple this give a stronger mechanical strength and prevents the cable pulling back through the solder is just there to stop the cable going fwd.

Ive tried on numerous occasions to solder on nipples with no joy, if its just for accelerator would you not be better off just using an adjustable nipple or taking the cable to a boat chandler for swaging one on.
Cheers,
Bob

I found a venhill generic cable thing and one of these did the job nicely.

No space for an adjustable nipple on my TBs.

OK Had another go tonight with some success. Trick is to clean the cable first in a strong acid solution. I used Spirit of Salts from a hardware store (32% hydrochloric acid) then used the 100w iron & regular electrical solder which tinned it nicely. Previously tried it with the blowtorch & plumbers flux but again it just carbon'd up.

Now I've just got to get some free time to make up the cables!

electrical solder, especialy the old lead based sodler, is weak as bu**ery - it is to make electrical contact not for mechanical purposes i.e. hold stuff together.

the new lead free is a bit stronger but again not designed for mechanical fixing.

I have used plumbers solder, flux and blow without any problem to solder on nipples, admittely never tried galvanised cable.

if you have splayed the cable out as recommended, since you won't be applying too much pressure on accelrator cable - make sure you have end stop fitted - you may get away with it,

On lifting cables,
Clean thoroughly to remove galvanizing, rinse to remove chemical, fray the cable and remove about half of strands.
Tuist the remainder strands back into thimble, cast with suitable metal filled epoxy, leave to set. DONE.
If it is good enough for anchors and Towing Cables, there must be plenty forThrottle or Clutch cables.

can anyone help me in sourcing new solder nipples for bycicle useage

There's an old-fashioned soldering flux called Bakers Fluid - I used this for my nipples (oooer!), together with plumbing solder. This flux will deal with galvanisation.

LINKY

One warning though - it's unpleasant stuff - my ancient tin was eaten through after a few years! You also have to make sure that you scrub it all off the joint after soldering, as it's corrosive (I think hydrochloric acid forms a significant part, plus other nasty stuff).

[Edited on 6/1/10 by David Jenkins]