I'm finally ready to admit defeat
No matter what I check or change , I cant get my car running right on the megasquirt . Every time I drive it , the AFR is different - it will vary at tickover from one minute to the next , it pops and farts constantly (telling me it's way too weak) while the freshly recalibrated LC1 is telling me it's way too rich .
Holding a constant speed/throttle opening and going up and down with the fueling has very little effect - as does doing the same with ignition timing (I've tried going from 1 degree up to 50 degrees and nothing changes )
And less than 20 MPG is killing me - no matter how it's driven .
I have run out of ideas

Claire is it possible that one of the components is constantly changing its value. I had a silimilar problem with a throttle pot on my Jenveys. Each time I took a measurement it was different. Changed the pot, problem solved.

hth

John

Your saying the exhaust is popping indicating its lean, yet the AFR saying its too rich can happen.
Mine was doing it last night, trust your instincts and up the REQ_Fuel or VE.
I'd leave the timing on a pretty standard base map setting so you know its about right or should be, try and concentrate on 1 thing at once.

And yeh i've had about enough of mine too! I'd love somebody to do a really good definitive book with simple terms in it as the megasquirt manual you either seem to get it or you don't.
There's so many simple things that could be done to the software to make it more easily understandable like even the axis putting on the tuning graphs so when its jumping around you can see whats changing.

Could the TB's be too big, or the sharp throttle angle is causing the poor MPG, if the throttle opens too far too soon before the engine rev's up, all you see if the AFR go lean so you and loads more fuel to make it correct.

sounds like the lambda sensor or its connexions,iirc you should get a gently fluctuating ac voltage on the 2 wires that are not heater

You want Megatunix, far easier to use:

http://megatunix.sourceforge.net/screenshots/vetables-tab.php

When something is running as badly as that it does suggest a faulty component. I would be inclined to follow CRK's suggestion and check the lambda sensor first.

John

If you have tried changing the ignition 50degrees and nothing happens than something is very wrong.
Have you had the ecu connected to the stim recently and tested all the inputs?
have you had a timing light on it? Is the ignition constant if you put a flat ignition map in?
Are the rpm/throttle signals steady?
Do some simple tests like disconnecting each cylinder in turn (plug and injector separately) to see if anything changes

Good luck

if you are running EDIS and the unit goes pop,it reverts to limp home mode and the timing stays at 10 deg,worth a try?

Well.............four hours of fiddling.......and I found a major problem
On the Triumph throttle bodies , for some strange reason the opening `load` is on the spring part of the adjuster , not the screw . All seemed OK when checking until I tried very gently opening the throttle with the engine running , and four out of the six butterflies were lagging behind , as the springs compressed !
So with four cable ties holding the adjusters in place , and a new `in-between` cable , as well as a different TPS it is sooooooooooo much better
Just had a quick run out to see what it's like to drive - it still wont drop down to tickover consistently , but at least it drives like a 2.5 V6 should

Good news

Time and time again it's been shown that you have to go back through everything, checking, taking nothing for granted, and niine times out of ten it's one thing that is seriously wrong, and when put right, you are nearly there. Just tweaking after that

John

Get a timing light on the crank pulley, make sure your ignition is advancing.......Also, make sure you are not in closed loop mode and the car is not constantly trying to adjust the fuel.

Sounds like the TB issue will make a big difference, so try hard to get a nice smooth tickover, then go slowly from there on in..