Ok so it's all going good now. Car starts off the button and idles well and the afterstart and warm up enrichments look to be fine ( well at idle
at least).
BUT if i start it from cold then just drive it there is much spitting and a bit of popping/backfiring. Couple this with a hard knock at certain load
sites ( light and low throttle) almost like a bearing failure But not.
After it's up to temp it's great with just a little work still to do.
So is there any way of making the sites richer when the engine is cold.
It's an MS1 V2.2 with msns extra code.
No map on this PC to post but can get it on tommorrow if need be.
Thanks folks.
that sounds like a timing issue to me
Sounds like enrichments want putting up a bit
Are you controlling sparks and fuel, or just fuel?
What does the AFR look like when running in this cold state? If could be that you have too much warm-up enrichment, as when idling you can get quite
a lot of fuel dropping out. Only a guess though.
Have you got a fast-idle-valve.
Matt
3 replies, 3 different answers.
Looks like we have the bases covered ;-)
My setting are as follows
-40=30
-29=20
-18=15
-7=12
4=10
16=9
27=8
38=7
54=6
71=5
hope this helps.
The warm up enrichments need upping as already suggested 
They are a percentage on top of the fuel table.
Bear in mind your cold AFR will be very low compared to your warm one, try and keep it around 12.5:1 until the engine is up to about 45-50deg then go
back to 14.7ish. Should smooth out the problems
David
sounds like all you problems can be solved by just letting the car sit and warm up for 5 minutes, why don't you use this time to do pre car
checks, like making sure the bonnet is fastened on, checking that you havent forgotten any tools you might want to take (just incase) etc
simples
driving off in a performance car with a cold engine is bad news full stop, be patient and wait 5
ATB
well now you see omega 0684 has the ideal solution at the moment. But what I was trying to get at was that it should in theory be driveable from the
start.
No idle valve
fuel and spark control
flak may have a part of the solution with upping the idle afr to 12.5 ish I'll give that a try as i've got it higher than that at the moment
IIRC
Also at some point I need to turn on and set the accel enrichments ( which also have a cold multiplier so that will help as well.
Can anyone tell me/does anyone have a tutorial on what you see in tuner studio with the accel graph and how to interprate it??
i.e the dotted ball moves as you press the pedal and depending on the rate at which you press it but can i glean more info from this in the setting up
of the accel enrichments.
[Edited on 10/3/10 by omega 24 v6]
quote:
Originally posted by omega0684
driving off in a performance car with a cold engine is bad news full stop
quote:
Originally posted by MikeRJ
quote:
Originally posted by omega0684
driving off in a performance car with a cold engine is bad news full stop
Not really true, driving it will warm it up much faster, idling isn't good for a cold engine. In any case getting the fuelling and timing map correctly sorted is better than just ignoring the problem.
plus it will annoy the neighbours less if you get in and go.
quote:
Originally posted by MikeRJ
quote:
Originally posted by omega0684
driving off in a performance car with a cold engine is bad news full stop
Not really true, driving it will warm it up much faster, idling isn't good for a cold engine. In any case getting the fuelling and timing map correctly sorted is better than just ignoring the problem.
Does this apply to a bike engine also?
I usually have to put her on choke and tick over for a few mins but would it be better for the engine to drive on choke from the off?
Sorry.. don't mean to hijack your thread
[Edited on 10/3/10 by MikeRJ]
