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Rover V8 and megasquirt
Blackbird Rush - 1/9/12 at 04:05 PM

Hi all

Thinking ahead to when I get the v8 running, I want to go efi with megasquirt, I currently have a ms v3 with ms1 chip running fuel only on the bike engine, is this level of ms ok or should I upgrade the chip?

I want to go distributorless with no airflow meter do I need an coil with 8 plug leads or can I use 2 x coils from a 4 cylinder?
Do I need a separate ignition amp or will the coils be triggered by the ms?

Going distributorless I assume I need to keep the dizzy to spin the oil pump, any tips on cutting it down but still retaining the oil pump drive from the cam?

Cheers

Ash

mark chandler - 1/9/12 at 05:21 PM

You can cut off the bowl of the distributor and cap the top.

Have a look Here for tips

Simon - 1/9/12 at 10:44 PM

quote:
Originally posted by Blackbird Rush
Going distributorless I assume I need to keep the dizzy to spin the oil pump, any tips on cutting it down but still retaining the oil pump drive from the cam?

Cheers

Ash


I have one sitting in my garage not doing much - make me an offer

[img] Description
Description [/img]

ATB

Simon

stevebubs - 2/9/12 at 12:22 AM

quote:
Originally posted by Blackbird Rush
Hi all

Thinking ahead to when I get the v8 running, I want to go efi with megasquirt, I currently have a ms v3 with ms1 chip running fuel only on the bike engine, is this level of ms ok or should I upgrade the chip?


Is fine, but you may wish to explore the MS Extra firmware for spark functionality via EDIS...

quote:


I want to go distributorless with no airflow meter do I need an coil with 8 plug leads or can I use 2 x coils from a 4 cylinder?
Do I need a separate ignition amp or will the coils be triggered by the ms?


Either...

quote:


Going distributorless I assume I need to keep the dizzy to spin the oil pump, any tips on cutting it down but still retaining the oil pump drive from the cam?

Cheers

Ash



Already answered...

v8kid - 2/9/12 at 05:57 AM

quote:
Originally posted by Blackbird Rush
Going distributorless I assume I need to keep the dizzy to spin the oil pump, any tips on cutting it down but still retaining the oil pump drive from the cam?

Cheers

Ash


You can also change the front cover and get a concentric oil pump which is much better - both pressure and flow. I did this before I went dry sump to get the engine a couple of inches lower. I think I paid £200 at the time but they are only worth £100 now. Story of my life.

Cheers!

Blackbird Rush - 2/9/12 at 07:20 AM

quote:
Originally posted by v8kid
quote:
Originally posted by Blackbird Rush
Going distributorless I assume I need to keep the dizzy to spin the oil pump, any tips on cutting it down but still retaining the oil pump drive from the cam?

Cheers

Ash


You can also change the front cover and get a concentric oil pump which is much better - both pressure and flow. I did this before I went dry sump to get the engine a couple of inches lower. I think I paid £200 at the time but they are only worth £100 now. Story of my life.

Cheers!


Hi sounds interesting, will it bolt straight to an SD1 block? Presumably this it the one from a p38 engine? I see from a pic that the longer oil pick up goes straight to the pump in the cover, would I need to block off the old pickup hole in the engine block? Also will a std SD1 cam and timing gear fit under the cover still as the redundant pump drive gear would still be there?

Cheers

Ash

Blackbird Rush - 2/9/12 at 07:22 AM

quote:
Originally posted by Simon
quote:
Originally posted by Blackbird Rush
Going distributorless I assume I need to keep the dizzy to spin the oil pump, any tips on cutting it down but still retaining the oil pump drive from the cam?

Cheers

Ash


I have one sitting in my garage not doing much - make me an offer

[img] Description
Description [/img]

ATB

Simon



Hi , deciding on front covers now, I'll drop you a line if I decide to keep my std pump cover.

Cheers

Ash

Blackbird Rush - 2/9/12 at 07:26 AM

quote:
Originally posted by stevebubs
quote:
Originally posted by Blackbird Rush
Hi all

Thinking ahead to when I get the v8 running, I want to go efi with megasquirt, I currently have a ms v3 with ms1 chip running fuel only on the bike engine, is this level of ms ok or should I upgrade the chip?


Is fine, but you may wish to explore the MS Extra firmware for spark functionality via EDIS...



Ok I'll have a nose at the ms sites and refresh my memory.

Cheers

Ash

mark chandler - 2/9/12 at 08:54 AM

Ash



You can also change the front cover and get a concentric oil pump which is much better - both pressure and flow. I did this before I went dry sump to get the engine a couple of inches lower. I think I paid £200 at the time but they are only worth £100 now. Story of my life.

Cheers!


Hi sounds interesting, will it bolt straight to an SD1 block? Presumably this it the one from a p38 engine? I see from a pic that the longer oil pick up goes straight to the pump in the cover, would I need to block off the old pickup hole in the engine block? Also will a std SD1 cam and timing gear fit under the cover still as the redundant pump drive gear would still be there?

Cheers

Ash


When I put an early cover on a P38 I had to space out the crank, you will also need a P38 cam so not a straight swap.

Late classic rangerovers are a hybrid with better concentric oil pump and retain the distributor, 3.9's and above, although for the effort is not really worth it, keeping the SD1 as is or get a 3.9, 4.0, 4.6 as a whole lump and sell on what you have.

Blackbird Rush - 2/9/12 at 10:54 AM

Hmm looks like I'll need to use a p38 sump too, so simpler to stay with my current set up for now.