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1600 xflow Megajolt?
J222jra - 27/5/13 at 09:47 PM

Evening guys,

I'm after some advice. I have a 1600 xflow in a Ron Champion 7. I've had a FastDan bike carb conversion which is excellent, however it's very upswept because of the distributor cap sticking up so high. This means that there's a lot of bits sticking out of my bonnet and it looks ugly.

I'm looking at different options. If I get rid of the dizzy the angle could be seriously reduced making a much better job so I've been looking at Megajolt.

I know nothing at all about this system so I have many questions. Is it something I can just buy a conversion kit, fit to the engine and at least get the car up and running or does it have to be sent for mapping like on a modern ecu?

Ay help would be much appreciated.

James

Scuzzle - 27/5/13 at 10:10 PM

Do you mean the bike carbs are upswept? they have to be at this angle because thats how they would be on the bike to keep the float chambers level.

What distributor are you using, I take it it's electronic and not points and is there an option of a side exit cap if you are not using one already

If you went Megajolt it would need a map to run it.

snapper - 28/5/13 at 04:51 AM

My bike carbs are flat and it has not caused a problem
Megajolt can run off a. Awe male out of the box and is easy to modify
You can just copy a basic 2D setup similar to what your distributor would have
With a bit of careful planni g you could mock the Megajolt up a d run either the standard distributor or the Megajolt until happy then remove the distributor and replace inlet manifold.
Fitting the triggerwheels and VR sensor bracket is probably the hardest bit but someone like Triggerwheels would have most of the bits

For me ( on a Pinto) it has proved a very reliable system once I had engineered out a particular wiring problem

MikeRJ - 28/5/13 at 07:13 AM

quote:
Originally posted by Scuzzle
Do you mean the bike carbs are upswept? they have to be at this angle because thats how they would be on the bike to keep the float chambers level.


With DCOE's the manifold runners have to point up- to miss the distributor cap, presumable it would be the same for the bike carbs.

Regarding megajolt, you can buy a kit of parts but it's not quite a "plug and play" solution. You need to mount the trigger wheel onto the crank pulley, which may involve some machining work, and you need to mount the crank sensor somewhere suitable (universal brackets are available, that can be modified to fit). Additionally if you want 3D mapping (better fuel economy and part throttle response) you need to mount a throttle position sensor to the bike carbs throttle spindle, assuming they don't already have one (some do). You will no doubt be able to find a base map to get you up and running, but it will need a trip to a dyno to optimise it.

J222jra - 28/5/13 at 07:41 AM

This is what it's currently looking like.........seems really upswept to me.....




http://i1344.photobucket.com/albums/p651/J222jra/image_zps81ec533d.jpg

mcerd1 - 28/5/13 at 07:47 AM

quote:
Originally posted by J222jra
Is it something I can just buy a conversion kit, fit to the engine and at least get the car up and running or does it have to be sent for mapping like on a modern ecu?

you can re-map a megajolt yourself with a PC and a serial cable - its very easy


if your bike carb's have a built in TPS (throttle position sensor) then you can easily upgrade to a 3D map once your up and running - this will give you better response and fuel economy (you'll need to buy the TPS version of MJ for this)


as above you'll need to mount a 36-1 trigger wheel on the crank (most folk fit it to the front of the pulley)

then you'll need a VR crank position sensor, coil pack and EDIS4 - these can be got from ebay or triggerwheels.com, but you can get them much cheaper if you find them yourself in a scrap car (lots of early 90's fords have all these bits in one)

I spent a few hours in a scrapyard down the road and found all the bits inc. the little capacitor and a complete loom to plug them all together (came out of a 92 fiesta 1.6 I think) - all that plus a spare coil cost me £25




then as a final touch you'll want one of these to blank off the dizzy hole:
X-Flow dizzy plug
X-Flow dizzy plug

[Edited on 28/5/2013 by mcerd1]

Scuzzle - 28/5/13 at 08:46 AM

Every bike carb manifold I have seen has had the bike carbs upswept, you look at any Bogg Bros manifold or any DanST manifold for any car and they are all upswept. The one on my zetec from Bogg Bros is upswept and they don't need to be because there is nothing underneath them.
I was always under the impression that this was because the float chamber had to sit at the correct angle and anything else caused problems.
Yet if you look at any bike throttle body manifold they are not upswept because they don't need to be.

snapper - 28/5/13 at 11:50 AM

Your inlet runners look quite long which would exacerbate the problem
Bike float chambers are designed to work at many angles and are not as sensitive as you might think
My Mikunies are spaced and the inlet manifold is dead straight, not upswept
They could probably do with raising a bit to follow the port drop in the head but have worked ok for years.

puma931 - 28/5/13 at 03:11 PM

This is mine (1.3 xflow with Dan's manifold).
I think my engine must be sitting much lower than yours plus the 1.3 block is shorter, as only the air filter sticks out on mine






quote:
Originally posted by J222jra
This is what it's currently looking like.........seems really upswept to me.....




http://i1344.photobucket.com/albums/p651/J222jra/image_zps81ec533d.jpg


[Edited on 28/5/13 by puma931]

[Edited on 28/5/13 by puma931]

J222jra - 28/5/13 at 04:22 PM

That looks much better Puma!!! I think I'm going to look at swapping the dizzy and getting the manifold altered.