the car starts and runs ok (albeit slower than I expected)
I have a fault code of PO171 which is lean bank 1. I have a new O2 sensor and that's working ok-checked.
Air flow meter has been cleaned along with my air filter
Had new coil pack and leads last year
Not changed spark plugs recently.
Checked timing last night and spot on.
Any other idea's what to check.
I have checked exhaust and can see no signs of leak. I have also checked inlet and can find no signs of air leaks. I have replaced the vacuum hose
from inlet to fuel pressure reg and still get fault code after 10 mins driving.
I have done the usual google search but it shows several things. Could this be a case of elimination or does any one have a suggestion.
Going to change my fuel filter this morning as not done so since building and now covered 3.5k miles.
Could it be an injector???
Ta in advance
Andy
[Edited on 8/8/15 by AndyW]
First thing should always do basic service checks before searching furtherunless there's something obvious; Plugs+ filters.
What colour are the plugs. If it's an air leak the ECU will be trying to compensate. Exhaust side leak and they'll look rich (mixture ok but
extra air in exhaust makes it look lean to ECU so it adds extra fuel). Inlet side and they might look normal. Poor fuel presure/injector and
they'll look lean as no amount of compensation will actually increase the fueling.
Re-check for an air leak including the exhaust side (a slight manifold crack will be enough). Also check the PCV valve and brether pipe. For the inlet
side spraying carb cleaner around helps but I prefer taking the nozzel off a blow torch, fitting a hose and feeding butane gas around. More precise
and less messy. The engine note will change if you find the leak.
Unlikely but tight valve clearances will cause a weak mixture but high HCs and still show black plugs. Silver top engines suffered if the wrong grade of oil was used but Blacktop uses shims, might be worth checking? When you say you've checked the timing I suspect you mean cam timing?
What is happening with the fuel trims? and is the engine running closed loup? Are the temperature sensors giving sensible readngs?
There is an excellent YouTube channel Schrodingers Box that has some very good videos on diagnosing lean configuration faults.
Have you got silicone hoses? I had this same fault on a my focus rs. and it turned out to be the hoses moving very slightly as the engine moved on its
mountings, and letting slightly varying amounts of air in. Changed to rubber hoses, which sealed better, and no more problems.
[Edited on 123131p://666 by mac1ZR]
just pulled the injector rail out and found that injector 3 has the end missing. Its a round brown thing that the other 3 injectors have but this one
is missing. Could this be a cause?
Description
its the brown collar on the end that's missing from one injector
Has anyone local to Bedfordshire got a spare 2.0 blacktop injector (that works!) that I could try please.....
[Edited on 8/8/15 by AndyW]
Description
missing the end bit......
Fuel trims at idle....
Description
Fuel trims at 2500rpm ish......
Description
Was the engine hot? logs show a cool engine
no engine wasn't fully warm as just removed and put back inlet manifold. So just ran it to see fuel trims. Running out of time for tonight but
must get this sorted tomorrow.
Any more help appreciated
Cheers
Andy
any one have any suggestions as to my injector issue above??
Not sure how that would affect the spray pattern but my first concern would be, where's the bit gone?
ok the saga continues. Injectors have had new filters and o rings fitted. New inlet manifold gasket, changed back to my old o2 sensor, still getting
PO171 bank 1 too lean
I have a silicon hose between the airflow meter and throttle body, looks ok and does not appear to have any splits. Checked vacuum hose to fuel
regulator all ok.
I just been out for another drive after clearing the fault code and it has come back again.
I did notice that my high pressure pump is very noisy and can be heard even when driving along at about 30mph with no roof or doors on.
I'm away for a week now but really want to sort this as not long left until tax runs out and want to get this resolved.
Any further suggestions of what to check etc.
Thanks
Andy
If the high pressure pump is noisy it might be a good idea to check the fuel pressure and the delivery rate, noisy pumps are often an indicator of pump failing . Check for fuel pipe/hose restrictions as well. Low fuel pressure/delivery rate could well cause the EML light to show a fault
I have a Schrader valve on the end of the fuel rail, can I get a fuel pressure gauge to take reading from that??
quote:
Originally posted by AndyW
I have a Schrader valve on the end of the fuel rail, can I get a fuel pressure gauge to take reading from that??