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Trigger wheel size?
David Jenkins - 20/7/06 at 02:54 PM

I've just been looking on this site for a trigger wheel suitable for fixing to the crank pulley on my x-flow.

Can anyone suggest the best size to go for?

cheers,
David


02GF74 - 20/7/06 at 03:01 PM

dunno but I know a man who would.

you need to figure out where you will fit the sensor, that'll decide the diameter surely?

if you mount snsor on slots for adjustability, then you don;t needthe more expensive slotted wheel .... and even so, I think you can adjsut in software any offsets.


cng1 - 20/7/06 at 03:18 PM

All you have to do is ask

4.5" is what you want on an xflow. Ford did see fit to make the odd few engines that need other sizes but any xflow that you're likely to be using in a locost will want the 4.5" one.

If for some reason the 4.5" one doesn't suit then we always let people swap them as many times as they like for the cost of the return postage. Provided of course that the one you're returning hasn't been hacked around.

I don't want to turn this thread into a commercial so I'll shut up now, but if anyone has any queries about the trigger wheels drop me an email offline.

Chris ( sales@trigger-wheels.com)


David Jenkins - 20/7/06 at 03:21 PM

Ta muchly - I'll be in touch sometime soon...

David


UncleFista - 20/7/06 at 03:52 PM

4 and a half inches is what we've used.
Fits well with a 4 inch steel pulley.


Picture here

[Edited on 20/7/06 by UncleFista]


matt_claydon - 20/7/06 at 05:31 PM

I can thoroughly recommend Chris / trigger-wheels.com - ordered one at 1:15 yesterday afternoon and it arrived at 7am this morning. Good quality item too. Did get me out of bed though so it's not all good, could you try to arrange for about half eight next time?


cng1 - 20/7/06 at 10:18 PM

I'm afraid I don't have any control over the postman. If you have a particular aversion to having your door bell rung, then next time let me know and I'l send it standard post rather than recorded.


David Jenkins - 21/7/06 at 07:46 AM

quote:
Originally posted by UncleFista
4 and a half inches is what we've used.
Fits well with a 4 inch steel pulley.


Picture here



Tony,

That picture is really useful - gives me some idea where to fit the wheel - did you weld it to the pulley, or does it just rely on the nut?

cheers,
David


cng1 - 21/7/06 at 10:45 AM

On the crossflow the easiest thing to do is to let the central crank bolt hold it in place. Then either drill a hole through the wheel and into the pulley for a roll-pin or drill and tap for a (threadlocked) M6 bolt. That will guard against the pulley ever rotating but will still allow you to move it around if you move your sensor or want to change the trigger angle.


David Jenkins - 21/7/06 at 10:50 AM

Does that work with a bog-standard pressed steel pulley?

Before anyone says anything, I know the general opinion is to replace the standard pulley with a solid steel job, but I don't rev the engine much higher than Ford intended.

David


UncleFista - 21/7/06 at 12:25 PM

quote:
Originally posted by David Jenkins



Tony,

That picture is really useful - gives me some idea where to fit the wheel - did you weld it to the pulley, or does it just rely on the nut?

cheers,
David


It's just held on by the nut, we were gonna drill it and bolt it, but it's not moving for anything, so...

The pressed steel pulley is a larger diameter than the solid pulley, so it'll be larger than your 4.5 inch trigger wheel, which means it'll be difficult to place the sensor, I'd try and get a 5.5 inch trigger wheel if I was using the pressed steel jobby, just so the teeth sit proud of the edge of your crank pulley.

[Edited on 21/7/06 by UncleFista]


02GF74 - 21/7/06 at 01:54 PM

taking the thread in a slightly different direction .... but I have wondered why is it not possible to machine the slots in the crank pulley itself?


Marcus - 21/7/06 at 01:58 PM

quote:

but I have wondered why is it not possible to machine the slots in the crank pulley itself?



I was thinking about this, BUT the fan belt will wear very quickly with the shear action on the edges of the teeth.


MikeRJ - 22/7/06 at 12:36 AM

quote:
Originally posted by 02GF74
taking the thread in a slightly different direction .... but I have wondered why is it not possible to machine the slots in the crank pulley itself?


You can on engines that have a crank damper e.g. A-Series, but the xflow has a cheap and nasty pressed tin pulley that has no "meat" to machine into.


David Jenkins - 5/8/06 at 11:55 AM

Ok - I've now got a steel pulley wheel and a 4.5" trigger wheel (I knew I really ought to have changed the pulley before this... but I'm too tight! This was a good excuse).

I know the sensor has to be mounted at the correct point when the crank is 90 degrees before the TDC mark. I also know that the sensor can be mounted anywhere convenient, as long as the missing tooth bit passes it at the correct time in the rotation.

However, what I don't know is what's the significant part of the trigger wheel as far as the sensor's concerned - do I set it all out so that the gap passes the sensor at 90 degrees BTDC, or the leading edge of the next tooth, or the middle of the next tooth?

David


paulf - 5/8/06 at 10:09 PM

The centre of the missing tooth should be in line with the sensor.It is desierable to have it as near as posible to get the 10 degree basic timing, but in practice you will be mapping the engine to run at its best and the actual advance wil be set to suit your engine from the base setting.
Paul.


David Jenkins - 6/8/06 at 08:59 AM

Thanks for that - although I will be making the sensor mount with a little bit of adjustment, and the map can correct errors, it's still nice to start off as near to correct as possible!

David