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Megajolt is up and running
minto4 - 28/8/06 at 11:53 AM

Well thanks to Ray Ward I got my Megajolt fully installed this weekend with no problems (except having the Trigger wires the wrong way round)

Started Saturday Morning at 10am, spent a full day on it till about 9. Sunday 10am and she was running by 4pm.
Not a bad result really.

Here are a few pictures, Some brackets still require painting.







A few more can be found here -

http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/photos.php?action=gal&user=minto4&folder=After%20MegaJolt


minto4 - 28/8/06 at 11:54 AM

ok so they didn't work, just use the link.


mcerd1 - 28/8/06 at 12:03 PM

Where did you get that rocker cover ??


minto4 - 28/8/06 at 01:37 PM

I think pat (avoneer) who built the car modified the standard one himself.

Its just had the filler trimmed off and filled in then a new spout put in the end for the filler.


mcerd1 - 28/8/06 at 03:17 PM

Ok thanks, its given me an idea for my own mod

-robert


pajsh - 28/8/06 at 03:20 PM

I nearly got mine sorted yesterday too. I mounted my megajolt, edis and coil pack and bolted the trigger wheel on. Just got to make a bracket for the VR sensor and figure out a way to mount the TPS. Then plug it all in. As the weather cleared up I went for a blast in the afternoon.

Two questions for you.

How accurately do you have to position the trigger wheel on the crank pully. I've read the sensor has to be 90 degrees before TDC? How do you measure it?

Also can you take the dizzy out and blank it off with a cap plate? Can't see a reason to leave it there.

As my coil started leaking oil at the weekend I'm keen to finish it off rather than buy a new coil.


paulf - 28/8/06 at 03:44 PM

The teeth on the trigger wheel are spaced at 10degrees so set the sensor 9 teeth before TDC.
You cant remove the distributor on a pinto as the oilpump is driven from the bottom of it, all you could do is to cut it down to leave the base of it inplace .
paul.
[quoteTwo questions for you.

How accurately do you have to position the trigger wheel on the crank pully. I've read the sensor has to be 90 degrees before TDC? How do you measure it?

Also can you take the dizzy out and blank it off with a cap plate? Can't see a reason to leave it there.

As my coil started leaking oil at the weekend I'm keen to finish it off rather than buy a new coil.



minto4 - 28/8/06 at 04:20 PM

I dont know how many teeth after the missing one it is I didn't count but 90% is dead in the middle of one of the teeth. Just get a protractor on it and its dead obvious. I just ste the engine to TDC and then spun the trigger wheel so the 90% tooth was spot on in the middle of the sensor. Easy peasy.


pajsh - 28/8/06 at 04:43 PM

Sorry but you might have to be a bit patient with me on this one as I'm pretty new to this.

The cambelt sets the valve timing and this is done by aliging the arrow on the cam pully with the mark on the head and then setting the crank pully to tdc (mark on the crank pully). The dizzy is then set at 8 degrees btc again using the mark on the crank pully.

With magajolt the ignition timing is set by the VR sensor reading 90 degrees in advance of tdc so that it has time to read the data and decide on the degree of advance.

So with the cam pulley set with the arrow to the point on the head and the crank pully tdc the trigger wheel should be set 9 teeth (90 degrees)after the missing one so that winding it back (anticlockwise) 90 degrees the gap aligns with the VR sensor reading 90 degress btdc.

Think I understand now thanks. Will try and set it up next weekend.


pajsh - 28/8/06 at 04:43 PM

Sorry but you might have to be a bit patient with me on this one as I'm pretty new to this.

The cambelt sets the valve timing and this is done by aliging the arrow on the cam pully with the mark on the head and then setting the crank pully to tdc (mark on the crank pully). The dizzy is then set at 8 degrees btc again using the mark on the crank pully.

With magajolt the ignition timing is set by the VR sensor reading 90 degrees in advance of tdc so that it has time to read the data and decide on the degree of advance.

So with the cam pulley set with the arrow to the point on the head and the crank pully tdc the trigger wheel should be set 9 teeth (90 degrees)after the missing one so that winding it back (anticlockwise) 90 degrees the gap aligns with the VR sensor reading 90 degress btdc.

Think I understand now thanks. Will try and set it up next weekend.


minto4 - 28/8/06 at 04:55 PM

It looks right what you have said,
I'll take the nose off my car this week and take some more photos to show you whats what. Pictures are the best.


paulf - 28/8/06 at 06:11 PM

The missing tooth needs to be aligned with the sensor 90 degrees before tdc, therfore the centre of the gap needs to be aligned with the tdc mark 90 degrees after tdc, this equates to 9 teeth.
The best way is to find the best place to locate the sensor and then set up the timing wheel to suit.
Paul.

quote:
Originally posted by minto4
I dont know how many teeth after the missing one it is I didn't count but 90% is dead in the middle of one of the teeth. Just get a protractor on it and its dead obvious. I just ste the engine to TDC and then spun the trigger wheel so the 90% tooth was spot on in the middle of the sensor. Easy peasy.


pajsh - 28/8/06 at 06:49 PM

Photo's would be great, ta!


DarrenW - 8/9/06 at 10:33 AM

And for the big questions;

1. Any probs getting the car started for first time?

2. What difference has it made to the running of the car?


Looks nice and neat by the way.