Ive got a triggerwheels.com trigger wheel which is laser cut from thick steel. The hole in centre is a good fit on the std bolt. Is it essential that the wheel is bolted in the centre (torqued up etc) and also dowelled / extra bolted or has anyone just relied on the centre bolt? I cant help thinking i fthe centre bolt is correctly torqued and the large diameter washer is fitted it should be OK.

I know most people seem to add extra bolts but wondering if that is overkill.

Darren dowell it it will move
Jacko

What about drilling a hole in the trigger wheel about a cm or two from the bolt hole then migging the wheel to the pully?

or even welding a stud to the pulley and trigger wheel hole being where the stud is?

I was planning to weld mine on to the pulley [1.8 Zetec]

Which engine are you using?

Stu

I agree with the others - dowel or weld it on - the inertia of a heavy wheel is huge and it will eventualy move when revs change quickly.

Anyway if it isn't dowelled you will always wonder if it has moved so for peace of mind it is worth fixing it in place permanently.

and wich thread hast that bolt??

Left hand? or normal?

while breaking the bolt will come lose..
else while accelerating..

sow you need to fit min. 2 bolts or a precize stud sow there is no degree of movement possible while breaking or accelerating..

Tks

also must say that they are a bit on the expensive side...

[Edited on 15/12/06 by tks]

We've done a few thousand miles with our Megajolted Crossflow.
Toothed wheel is just held on to the pulley with the (new, longer) centre bolt.
It's not moved a single degree[1]

[1] Yeah, I know, that just means that when/if it does give way, it'll be unexpectedly and terminally

Another point - make sure the whole lot is dynamically balanced afterwards - I've known pulleys to break at the keyway after putting on the timing wheel and not balancing them.

Remember the missing tooth (teeth) unbalances the timing wheel.

Like wise mine is also just bolted on! Done about 500 miles incident free thus far! Wouldn't weld it as the pulley metal is a real unknown quantity! anyone see the article with Dave walker when a trigger wheel welded on (DIY) flew off!!! Not funny......Oli.

what size trigger wheel are people getting on crossflows?

Fitted a 4.5" trigger wheel to mine although it's not yet running anything. Using a steel pulley with a 2" dia spacer that fits inside the bore of the pulley to locate it and have opened out the center hole to 3/4" and locates onto spigot machined on spacer . When final position is found will drill and roll pin to maintain position.

quote:

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Originally posted by MikeR
what size trigger wheel are people getting on crossflows?

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Burtons pulley is 4" dia

hey all,

I had my edis wheel turned on a lathe, the inner daimeter was enlarged and the frontpart of the 4age pully was turned down to suit the wheel, then 4 holes where drilled and threaded to take 4 M3 stainless bolts. everything is in perfect balance and it cost me something like 20pounds to get done.
over which it is not worth trying it yourself with a welder.
if you have acces to a lathe yourself an hour or so might be enough

the 20v regularly sees 8Krpm and it didn't come off yet.

grtz Thomas

I Think ill bolt mine on after reading that. I have the larger trigger wheel 5.75" iirc. I spoke to Dave walker about the trigger wheels and he said they were "ok" the edge is not the best where they are cut and Dave recomended the bigest wheel posible as it was more acurate (or something alont them lines)

I used the wheel with the large centre hole and had the pulley machined down slightly to give a press fit.
This ensured the wheel was central. Once timing was set I welded it on, a tab every 90 degrees.